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OUR   iTALr 

BY    CHARLES    DUDLEY    WARNER 

Author  of  Their  Pilgrimage^  Studies  in 
the  South  and  West,  A  Little  Journey 
in    the  World    .    .  With  Many  DTustrations 


NEW  TORE 

HARPER    ^    BROTHERS,  FRANKLIN  SQUARE 

1902 


Copyright,  1891,  by  Harper  &  Brothers. 


All  rights  reserved. 


CONTENTS. 


OHAP.  PAGK 

I,    HOW  OUR   ITALY    IS   MADE 1 

II.    OUK    CLIMATIC    AXD    COMMERCIAL   MEDITERRANEAN   ....  10 

m.    EARLY  VICISSITUDES. PRODUCTIONS. SANITARY    CLIMATE      .  24 

IV.    THE   WINTER    OF    OUR    CONTENT 42 

V.    HEALTH   AND    LONGEVITY 52 

VL    IS    RESIDENCE    HERE   AGREEABLE? 65 

VII.    THE   WINTER    ON    THE    COAST V2 

VIIL    THE    GENERAL    OUTLOOK. LAND   AND    PRICES 90 

IX.    THE   ADVANTAGES    OF    IRRIGATION 99 

X.    THE    CHANCE    FOR    LABORERS  AND    SMALL    FARMERS.       .       .       .  1 0*7 
XI.    SOME    DETAILS    OF    THE   WONDERFUL   DEVELOPMENT.       .       .       .114 

^  XII.    HOW  THE    FRUIT    PERILS   WERE   MET. FURTHER    DETAILS    OF 

^                                        LOCALITIES 128 

>^               XIIL    THE   ADVANCE    OF    CULTIVATION    SOUTHWARD 140 

az 

2  XIV.    A  LAND    OF  AGREEABLE    HOMES 146 

OO 

3  XV.    SOME  WONDERS  BY  THE  WAY. — YOSEMITE. — MARIPOSA  TREES. 

*                                         MONTEREY 148 

^  XVI.    FASCINATIONS    OF    THE    DESERT. THE    LAGUNA    PUEBLO      .       .163 

XVIL    THE    HEART    OF    THE    DESERT .177 

XVIII.    ON  THE  BRINK  OP  THE  GRAND  CANON. — THE  UNIQUE  MARVEL 

OF    NATURE 189 

APPENDIX , 201 

INDEX 219 


«>  1  /fl  /li-^ri 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


SANTA  BARBARA Frontispiece 

rAon 

MOJAVE    DESERT 3 

MOJAVE    INDIAN 4 

MOJAVE    INDIAN 5 

bird's-eye   VIEW   OP   RIVERSIDE 7 

SCENE    IN    SAN    BERNARDINO • 11 

SCENES    IN    MONTECITO   AND    LOS   ANGELES 13 

FAN-PALM,  LOS   ANGELES 16 

YUCCA-PALM,  SANTA    BARBARA , 17 

MAGNOLIA  AVENUE,  RIVERSIDE 21 

AVENUE    LOS  ANGELES 27 

IN    THE    GARDEN  AT    SANTA    BARBARA  MISSION 31 

SCENE   AT    PASADENA 35 

LIVE-OAK  NEAR    LOS   ANGELES 39 

MIDWINTER,  PASADENA 53 

A  TYPICAL    GARDEN,  NEAR    SANTA   ANA 57 

OLD    ADOBE    HOUSE,  POMONA 61 

FAN-PALM,  FERNANDO    ST.  LOS   ANGELES 63 

SCARLET    PASSION-VINE 68 

ROSE-BUSH,  SANTA  BARBARA 73 

AT  AVALON,  SANTA  CATALINA  ISLAND 77 

HOTEL   DEL   CORONADO » 83 

OSTRICH    YARD,  CORONADO  BEACH 86 

YUCCA-PALM 92 

DATE-PALM 93 

BAISIN-CURING 101 

IRRIGATION    BY  ARTESIAN-WELL    SYSTEM 104 

IRRIGATION    BY  PIPE   SYSTEM 105 


viii  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

FAOB 

GARDEN    SCENE,  SANTA  ANA 110 

A  GRAPE-VINE,  MONTECITO  VALLEY,  SANTA   BARBARA 116 

IRRIGATING  AN    ORCHARD 120 

ORANGE   CULTURE ,121 

IN   A  FIELD    OF    GOLDEN    PUMPKINS 126 

PACKING    CHERRIES,  POMONA 131 

OLIVE-TREES    SIX   YEARS    OLD 136 

SEXTON  NURSERIES,  NEAR    SANTA   BARBARA 141 

SWEETWATER    DAM 144 

THE   YOSEMITE    DOME 151 

COAST    OF    MONTEREY 155 

CYPRESS    POINT 156 

NEAR    SEAL    ROCK 15V 

LAGUNA-FROM   THE    SOUTH-EAST 159 

CHURCH   AT    LAGUNA 164 

TERRACED    HOUSES,  PUEBLO    OF   LAGUNA ....     167 

GRAND      CANON      ON     THE      COLORADO VIEW      FROM      POINT      SUB- 
LIME   ivi 

INTERIOR    OF   THE    CHURCH    AT    LAGUNA 174 

GRAND     CANON    OF    THE    COLORADO — VIEW    OPPOSITE    POINT    SUB- 
LIME      1'''^ 

TOURISTS   IN   THE    COLORADO    CANON 183 

GRAND     CANON     OF     THE      COLORADO  VIEW      FROM     THE     HANSE 

TRAIL 191 


OUR    ITALY. 


CHAPTER  I. 
HOW    OUK    ITALY  IS    MADE. 

The  traveller  who  descends  into  Italy  by  an  Al- 
pine pass  never  forgets  the  surprise  and  dehght  of 
the  transition.  In  an  hour  he  is  whirled  down  the 
slopes  from  the  region  of  eternal  snow  to  the  verdure 
of  spring  or  the  ripeness  of  summer.  Suddenly — it 
may  be  at  a  turn  in  the  road — winter  is  left  behind; 
the  plains  of  Lombardy  are  in  view;  the  Lake  of 
Como  or  Maggiore  gleams  below;  there  is  a  tree; 
there  is  an  orchard;  there  is  a  garden;  there  is  a 
viUa  overrun  with  vines ;  the  singing  of  bu'ds  is  heard ; 
the  air  is  gracious ;  the  slopes  are  terraced,  and  cov- 
ered with  vineyards;  great  sheets  of  silver  sheen  in 
the  landscape  mark  the  growth  of  the  ohve;  the  dark 
green  orchards  of  oranges  and  lemons  are  starred  with 
gold;  the  lusty  fig,  always  a  temptation  as  of  old, 
leans  invitingly  over  the  stone  wall ;  everywhere  are 
bloom  and  color  under  the  blue  sky;  there  are  shrines 
by  the  way -side,  chapels  on  the  hill;  one  hears  the 
melodious  bells,  the  call  of  the  vine  -  dressers,  the 
laughter  of  girls. 


2  OUE  ITALY. 

The  contrast  is  as  great  from  the  Indians  of  the 
Mojave  Desert,  two  types  of  which  are  here  given,  to 
the  vine-dressers  of  the  Santa  Ana  Valley. 

Italy  is  the  land  of  the  imagination,  but  the  sen- 
sation on  first  beholding  it  from  the  northern  heights, 
aside  from  its  associations  of  romance  and  poetry,  can 
be  repeated  in  onr  own  land  by  whoever  will  cross  the 
burning  desert  of  Colorado,  or  the  savage  wastes  of 
the  Mojave  wilderness  of  stone  and  sage-brush,  and 
come  suddenly,  as  he  must  come  by  train,  into  the 
bloom  of  Southern  Cahfornia.  Let  us  study  a  little 
the  physical  conditions. 

The  bay  of  San  Diego  is  about  three  hundred  miles 
east  of  San  Francisco.  The  coast  line  runs  south- 
east, but  at  Point  Conception  it  turns  sharply  east, 
and  then  curves  south-easterly  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  to  the  Mexican  coast  boundary,  the 
extreme  south-west  limits  of  the  United  States,  a 
few  miles  below  San  Diego.  This  coast,  defined  by 
these  two  hmits,  has  a  southern  exposure  on  the 
sunniest  of  oceans.  Off  this  coast,  south  of  Point 
Conception,  lies  a  chain  of  islands,  curving  in  posi- 
tion in  conformity  with  the  shore,  at  a  distance  of 
twenty  to  seventy  miles  from  the  main -land.  These 
islands  are  San  Miguel,  Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Cruz,  Ana- 
capa,  Santa  Barbara,  San  Nicolas,  Santa  Catahna,  San 
Clemente,  and  Los  Coronados,  which  lie  in  Mexican 
waters.  Between  this  chain  of  islands  and  the  main- 
land is  Santa  Barbara  Channel,  flowing  northward. 
The  great  ocean  current  from  the  north  flows  past 
Point  Conception  hke  a  mill  -  race,  and  makes  a  suc- 
tion, or  a  sort  of  eddy.  It  approaches  nearer  the 
coast  in  Lower  California,  where  the  return  current, 


HOW  OUK  ITALY  IS  MADE. 


which  is  much  warmer,  flows  northward  and  westward 
along  the  curving  shore.  The  Santa  Barbara  Channel, 
which  may  be  called  an  arm  of  the  Pacific,  flows  by 


MOJA\'E  DESERT. 


many  a  bold  point  and  lovely  bay,  hke  those  of  San 
Pedro,  Redondo,  and  Santa  Monica ;  but  it  has  no  se- 
cure harbor,  except  the  magnificent  and  unique  bay  of 
San  Diego. 

The  southern  and  western  boundary  of  Southern 
California  is  this  mild  Pacific  sea,  studded  with  rocky 
and  picturesque  islands.  The  northern  boundary  of 
this  region  is  ranges  of  lofty  mountains,  from  five 
thousand  to  eleven  thousand  feet  in  height,  some  of 
them  always  snow -clad,  which  run  eastward  from 
Point  Conception  nearly  to  the  Colorado  Desert.  They 
are  parts  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  but  they  take 


OUR   ITALY. 


various  names,  Santa  Ynes,  San  Gabriel,  San  Bernar- 
dino, and  they  are  spoken  of  all  together  as  the  Sierra 
Madre.  In  the  San  Grabriel  group,  "Old  Baldy"  hfts 
its  snow-peak  over  nine  thousand  feet,  while  the  San 
Bernardino  "Grayback"  rises  over  eleven  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea.  Southward  of  this, 
running  down  into  San  Diego  Coun- 
ty, is  the  San  Jacinto  range,  also 
snow -clad;  and  eastward  the  land 
falls  rapidly  away  into  the  Salt  Des- 
ert of  the  Colorado,  in  which  is  a 
depression  about  three  hundred  feet 
below  the  Pacific. 

The  Point  Arguilles,  which  is 
above  Point  Conception,  by  the  aid 
of  the  outlying  islands,  deflects  the 
cold  current  from  the  north  off  the 
coast  of  Southern  California,  and  the 
mountain  ranges  from  Point  Con- 
ception east  divide  the  State  of  Cal- 
ifornia into  two  climatic  regions, 
the  southern  having  more  warmth, 
less  rain  and  fog,  milder  winds,  and  less  variation  of 
daily  temperature  than  the  chmate  of  Central  Cali- 
fornia to  the  north.*  Other  striking  climatic  condi- 
tions are  produced  by  the  daily  interaction  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  the  Colorado  Desert,  infinitely  di- 
versified in  minor  particulars  by  the  exceedingly  bro- 
ken character  of  the  region — a  jumble  of  bare  mount- 
ains, fruitful  foot-hills,  and  rich  valleys.     It  would  be 


v-p.^ 


*  For  these  and  other  observations  upon  physical  and  climatic  conditions  I  am 
wholly  indebted  to  Dr.  P.  C.  Remondino  and  Mr.  T.  S.  Van  Dyke,  of  San  Diego, 
both  scientific  and  competent  authorities. 


HOW   OUR   ITALY   IS   MADE. 


only  from  a  balloon  that  one  could  get  an  adequate 
idea  of  this  strange  land. 

The  United  States  has  here,  then,  a  unique  corner 
of  the  earth,  without  its  like  in  its  own  vast  territory, 
and  unparalleled,  so  far  as  I  know,  in  the  world.  Shut 
off  from  sympathy  with  external  conditions  by  the 
giant  mountain  ranges  and  the  desert  wastes,  it  has  its 
own  chmate  unaffected  by  cosmic  changes.  Except  a 
tidal  w^ave  from  Japan,  nothing  would  seem  to  be  able 
to  affect  or  disturb  it.  The  whole  of  Italy  feels  more 
or  less  the  chmatic  variations  of  the  rest  of  Europe. 
All  our  Atlantic  coast,  all  our  interior  basin  from 
Texas  to  Manitoba,  is  in  climatic  sym- 
pathy. Here  is  a  region  larger  than 
New  England  which  manufactures  its 
own  weather  and  refuses  to  import 
any  other. 

With  considerable  varieties  of  tem- 
perature according  to  elevation  or 
protection  from  the  ocean  breeze,  its 
climate  is  nearly,  on  the  whole,  as 
agreeable  as  that  of  the  Hawaiian  Isl- 
ands, though  pitched  in  a  lower  key, 
and  with  greater  variations  between 
day  and  night.  The  key  to  its  pecu- 
liarity, aside  fi'oni  its  southern  expos- 
ure, is  the  Colorado  Desert.  That 
desert,  waterless  and  treeless,  is  cool 
at  night  and  intolerably  hot  in  the 
daytime,  sending  uj)  a  vast  column  of  hot  air,  w^hich 
cannot  escape  eastward,  for  Arizona  manufactures  a 
like  column.  It  flows  high  above  the  mountains  west- 
ward till  it  strikes  the  Pacific  and  parts  with  its  heat, 


6  OUR  ITALY. 

creating  an  immense  vacumn  which,  is  filled  by  the 
air  from  the  coast  flowing  up  the  slope  and  over  the 
range,  and  plunging  down  6000  feet  into  the  desert. 
"It  is  easy  to  understand,"  says  Mr.  Van  Dyke,  making 
his  observations  from  the  summit  of  the  Cuyamaca,  in 
San  Diego  County,  6500  feet  above  the  sea-level,  "how 
land  thus  rising  a  mile  or  more  in  fifty  or  sixty  miles, 
rising  away  from  the  coast,  and  falhng  off  abruptly  a 
mile  deep  into  the  driest  and  hottest  of  American  des- 
erts, could  have  a  great  variety  of  climates.  .  .  .  Only 
ten  miles  away  on  the  east  the  summers  are  the  hottest, 
and  only  sixty  miles  on  the  west  the  coolest  known  in 
the  United  States  (except  on  this  coast),  and  between 
them  is  every  combination  that  mountains  and  valleys 
can  produce.  And  it  is  easy  to  see  whence  comes  the 
sea-breeze,  the  glory  of  the  Cahfornia  summer.  It  is 
passing  us  here,  a  gentle  breeze  of  six  or  eight  miles 
an  hour.  It  is  fiowing  over  this  great  ridge  directly 
into  the  basin  of  the  Colorado  Desert,  6000  feet  deep, 
where  the  temperature  is  probably  120°,  and  perhaps 
higher.  For  many  leagues  each  side  of  us  this  cur- 
rent is  thus  flowing  at  the  same  speed,  and  is  prob- 
ably half  a  mile  or  more  in  depth.  About  sundown, 
when  the  air  on  the  desert  cools  and  descends,  the 
current  wiU  change  and  come  the  other  way,  and  flood 
these  western  slopes  with  an  air  as  pure  as  that  of  the 
Sahara  and  nearly  as  dry. 

"  The  air,  heated  on  the  western  slopes  by  the  sea, 
would  by  rising  produce  considerable  suction,  which 
could  be  filled  only  from  the  sea,  but  that  alone  would 
not  make  the  sea-breeze  as  dry  as  it  is.  The  principal 
suction  is  caused  by  the  rising  of  heated  air  from  the 
great  desert.  .  .  .  On  the  top  of  old  Grayback  (in  San 


HOW   OUR   ITALY  IS  MADE. 


BIRDS-EYE  VIEW   OP  RIVERSIDE. 


<^^^ 

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't- 

f:.;:> 

■^ 

►^.: 

4 

jS"V' 

<'?■? 

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Bernardino)  one  can  feel  it  [this  breeze]  setting  west- 
ward, while  in  the  canons,  6000  feet  below,  it  is  blow- 
ing eastward.  .  .  .  All  over  Southern  California  the 
conditions  of  this  breeze  are  about  the  same,  the  great 
Mojave  Desert  and  the  valley  of  the  San  Joaquin 
above  operating  in  the  same  way,  assisted  by  interior 


8  OUR  ITALY. 

plains  and  slopes.  Hence  these  deserts,  that  at  first 
seem  to  be  a  disadvantage  to  the  land,  are  the  great 
conditions  of  its  climate,  and  are  of  far  more  value 
than  if  they  were  hke  the  prairies  of  Ilhnois.  Fort- 
unately they  will  remain  deserts  forever.  Some  parts 
will  in  time  be  reclaimed  by  the  waters  of  the  Col- 
orado River,  but  wet  spots  of  a  few  hundred  thousand 
acres  would  be  too  trifling  to  affect  general  results,  for 
milhons  of  acres  of  burning  desert  would  forever  defy 
all  attempts  at  irrigation  or  settlement." 

This  desert-born  breeze  explains  a  seeming  anom- 
aly in  regard  to  the  humidity  of  this  coast.  I  have 
noticed  on  the  sea -shore  that  salt  does  not  become 
damp  on  the  table,  that  the  Portuguese  fishermen  on 
Point  Loma  are  drying  their  fish  on  the  shore,  and 
that  while  the  hydrometer  gives  a  humidity  as  high 
as  seventy-four,  and  higher  at  times,  and  fog  may  pre- 
vail for  three  or  four  days  continuously,  the  fog  is 
rather  "  dry,"  and  the  general  impression  is  that  of  a 
dry  instead  of  the  damp  and  chilhng  atmosphere  such 
as  exists  in  foggy  times  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

"  From  the  study  of  the  origin  of  this  breeze  we 
see,"  says  Mr.  Van  Dyke,  "why  it  is  that  a  wind 
coming  from  the  broad  Pacific  should  be  drier  than 
the  dry  land-breezes  of  the  Atlantic  States,  caus- 
ing no  damp  walls,  swelhng  doors,  or  rusting  guns, 
and  even  on  the  coast  drying  up,  without  salt  or 
soda,  meat  cut  in  strips  an  inch  thick  and  fish  much 
thicker." 

At  times  on  the  coast  the  air  contains  plenty  of 
moisture,  but  with  the  rising  of  this  breeze  the  moist- 
ure decreases  instead  of  increases.  It  should  be  said 
also  that  this  constantly  returning  current  of  air  is 


HOW    OUE   ITALY   IS    MADE.  9 

always  pure,  coming  in  contact  nowhere  with  marshy 
or  malarious  influences  nor  any  agency  injurious  to 
health.  Its  character  causes  the  whole  coast  from 
Santa  Barbara  to  San  Diego  to  be  an  agreeable  place 
of  residence  or  resort  summer  and  winter,  while  its 
daily  inflowing  tempers  the  heat  of  the  far  inland  val- 
leys to  a  dehghtful  atmosphere  in  the  shade  even  in 
midsummer,  while  cool  nights  are  every w^here  the  rule. 
The  greatest  surprise  of  the  traveller  is  that  a  region 
which  is  in  perpetual  bloom  and  fruitage,  where  semi- 
tropical  fruits  mature  in  perfection,  and  the  most 
dehcate  flowers  dazzle  the  eye  with  color  the  mnter 
through,  should  have  on  the  whole  a  low  temperature, 
a  chmate  never  enervating,  and  one  requiring  a  dress 
of  woollen  in  every  month. 


CHAPTEK  II. 
OUR  CLIMATIC  AND   COMMERCIAL  MEDITERRANEAN. 

Winter  as  we  "understand  it  east  of  the  Rockies 
does  not  exist.     I  scarcely  know  how  to  divide  the 
seasons.     There  are  at  most  but  three.     Spring  may 
be  said  to  begin  with  December  and  end  in  April; 
summer,  with  May  (whose  days,  however,  are  often 
cooler  than  those  of  January),  and  end  with  Septem- 
ber ;  while  October  and  November  are  a  mild  autumn, 
when  nature  takes  a  partial  rest,  and  the  leaves  of  the 
deciduous  trees  are  gone.     But  how  shall  we  classify 
a  climate  in  which  the  strawberry  (none  yet  in  my  ex- 
perience equal  to  the  Eastern  berry)  may  be  eaten  in 
every  month  of  the  year,  and  ripe  figs  may  be  picked 
from  July  to  March  ?    What  shall  I  say  of  a  frost  (an 
affair  of  only  an  hour  just  before  sunrise)  which  is 
hardly  anywhere  severe  enough  to  disturb  the  dehcate 
heliotrope,  and  even  in  the  deepest  valleys  where  it 
may  chill  the  orange,  will  respect  the  bloom  of  that 
fruit  on  contiguous  ground  fiity  or  a  hundred  feet 
higher?    We  boast  about  many  things  in  the  United 
States,  about  our  bhzzards  and  our  cyclones,  our  inun- 
dations and  our  areas  of  low  pressure,  our  hottest  and 
our  coldest  places  in  the  world,  but  what  can  we  say 
for  this  httle  corner  which  is  practically  frostless,  and 
yet  never  had  a  sunstroke,  knows  nothing  of  thun- 
der-storms and  Hghtning,  never  experienced  a  cyclone, 


OUE   CLIMATIC  AND   COMMERCIAL  MEDITERRANEAN.      11 

which  is  SO  warm  that  the  year  round  one  is  tempted 
to  hve  oiit-of-doors,  and  so  cold  that  woollen  garments 
are  never  uncomfortable'?  Nature  here,  in  this  pro- 
tected and  petted  area,  has  the  knack  of  being  genial 
without  being  enervating,  of  being  stimulating  with- 
out "  bracing"  a  person  into  the  tomb.  I  think  it  con- 
ducive to  equanimity  of  spirit  and  to  longe^dty  to  sit 
in  an  orange  grove  and  eat  the  fruit  and  inhale  the 
fragrance  of  it  while  gazing  upon  a  snow-mountain. 


SCENE  IN  SAN  BERNARDINO. 


This  southward-facing  portion  of  California  is  irri- 
gated by  many  streams  of  pure  water  rapidly  falhng 
from  the  mountains  to  the  sea.  The  more  important 
are  the  Santa  Clara,  the  Los  Angeles  and  San  Glabriel, 
the  Santa  Ana,  the  Santa  Margarita,  the  San  Luis 
Rey,  the  San  Bernardo,  the  San  Diego,  and,  on  the 
Mexican  border,  the  Tia  Juana.  Many  of  them  go 
dry  or  flow  underground  in  the  summer  months  (or, 
as  the  Californians  say,  the  bed  of  the  river  gets  on 
top),  but  most  of  them  can  be  used  for  artificial  imga- 


12  OUE   ITALY. 

tion.  In  the  lowlands  water  is  sufficiently  near  the 
surface  to  moisten  the  soil,  which  is  broken  and  culti- 
vated ;  in  most  regions  good  wells  are  reached  at  a 
small  depth,  in  others  artesian -wells  spout  up  abun- 
dance of  water,  and  considerable  portions  of  the  re- 
gions best  known  for  fruit  are  watered  by  irrigating 
ditches  and  pipes  supplied  by  ample  reservoirs  in  the 
mountains.  From  natural  rainfall  and  the  sea  moist- 
ure the  mesas  and  hills,  which  look  arid  before  plough- 
ing, produce  large  crops  of  grain  when  cultivated  after 
the  annual  rains,  without  artificial  watering. 

Southern  California  has  been  slowly  understood 
even  by  its  occupants,  who  have  wearied  the  world 
with  boasting  of  its  productiveness.  Originally  it  was 
a  vast  cattle  and  sheep  ranch.  It  was  supposed  that 
the  land  was  worthless  except  for  grazing.  Held  in 
princely  ranches  of  twenty,  fifty,  one  hundred  thou- 
sand acres,  in  some  cases  areas  larger  than  German 
principalities,  tens  of  thousands  of  cattle  roamed  along 
the  watercourses  and  over  the  mesas,  vast  flocks  of 
sheep  cropped  close  the  grass  and  trod  the  soil  into 
hard-pan.  The  owners  exchanged  cattle  and  sheep  for 
corn,  grain,  and  garden  vegetables ;  they  had  no  faith 
that  they  could  grow  cereals,  and  it  was  too  much 
trouble  to  procure  water  for  a  garden  or  a  fruit  or- 
chard. It  was  the  firm  belief  that  most  of  the  rolling 
mesa  land  was  unfit  for  cultivation,  and  that  neither 
forest  nor  fruit  trees  would  grow  without  irrigation. 
Between  Los  Angeles  and  Redondo  Beach  is  a  ranch 
of  35,000  acres.  Seventeen  years  ago  it  was  owned  by 
a  Scotchman,  who  used  the  whole  of  it  as  a  sheep 
ranch.  In  selling  it  to  the  present  owner  he  warned 
him  not  to  waste  time  by  attempting  to  farm  it;  he 


SCENES  IN  MONTECITO  AND  LOS  ANGELES. 


14  OUB  ITALY. 

himself  raised  no  fruit  or  vegetables,  planted  no  trees, 
and  bought  all  his  corn,  wheat,  and  barley.  The  pur- 
chaser, however,  began  to  experiment.  He  planted 
trees  and  set  out  orchards  which  grew,  and  in  a  couple 
of  years  he  wrote  to  the  former  owner  that  he  had 
8000  acres  in  fine  wheat.  To  say  it  in  a  word,  there  is 
scarcely  an  acre  of  the  tract  which  is  not  highly  pro- 
ductive in  barley,  wheat,  corn,  potatoes,  while  consid- 
erable parts  of  it  are  especially  adapted  to  the  English 
walnut  and  to  the  citrus  fruits. 

On  this  route  to  the  sea  the  road  is  lined  with  gar- 
dens. Nothing  could  be  more  unpromising  in  appear- 
ance than  this  soil  before  it  is  ploughed  and  pulverized 
by  the  cultivator.  It  looks  like  a  barren  waste.  We 
passed  a  tract  that  was  offered  three  years  ago  for 
twelve  dollars  an  acre.  Some  of  it  now  is  rented  to 
Chinamen  at  thirty  dollars  an  acre;  and  I  saw  one 
field  of  two  acres  off  which  a  Chinaman  has  sold  in 
one  season  $750  worth  of  cabbages. 

The  truth  is  that  almost  all  the  land  is  wonderfully 
productive  if  intelligently  handled.  The  low  ground 
has  water  so  near  the  surface  that  the  pulverized 
soil  will  draw  up  sufficient  moisture  for  the  crops ;  the 
mesa,  if  sown  and  cultivated  after  the  annual  rains, 
matures  grain  and  corn,  and  sustains  vines  and  fruit- 
trees.  It  is  singular  that  the  first  settlers  should  never 
have  discovered  this  productiveness.  When  it  became 
apparent — that  is,  productiveness  without  artificial  wa- 
tering—  there  spread  abroad  a  notion  that  irrigation 
generally  was  not  needed.  We  shall  have  occasion  to 
speak  of  this  more  in  detail,  and  I  will  now  only  say, 
on  good  authority,  that  while  cultivation,  not  to  keep 
down  the  weeds  only,  but  to  keep  the  soil  stirred  and 


OUB  CLBIATIC  AND   COM^IEKCIAL  MEDITERRANEAN.      15 

prevent  its  baking,  is  the  prime  necessity  for  almost  all 
land  in  Southern  Cahfornia,  there  are  portions  where 
irrigation  is  always  necessary,  and  there  is  no  spot 
where  the  yield  of  fruit  or  grain  will  not  be  quadru- 
pled by  judicious  irrigation.  There  are  places  where 
UTigation  is  excessive  and  harmful  both  to  the  qual- 
ity and  quantity  of  oranges  and  grapes. 

The  history  of  the  extension  of  cultivation  in  the 
last  twenty  and  especially  in  the  past  ten  years  from 
the  foot-hills  of  the  Sierra  Madi^e  in  Los  Angeles  and 
San  Bernardino  counties  southward  to  San  Diego  is 
very  curious.  Experiments  were  timidly  tried.  Every 
acre  of  sand  and  sage-bush  reclaimed  southward  was 
supposed  to  be  the  last  capable  of  profitable  farming 
or  fruit-growing.  It  is  unsafe  now  to  say  of  any  land 
that  has  not  been  tried  that  it  is  not  good.  In  every 
valley  and  on  every  hill-side,  on  the  mesas  and  in  the 
sunny  nooks  in  the  mountains,  nearly  anything  will 
grow,  and  the  appUcation  of  water  produces  marvel- 
lous results.  From  San  Bernardino  and  Redlands, 
Riverside,  Pomona,  Ontario,  Santa  Anita,  San  Grabriel, 
Pasadena,  aU  the  way  to  Los  Angeles,  is  almost  a  con- 
tinuous fruit  garden,  the  green  areas  only  empha- 
sized by  wastes  yet  unreclaimed ;  a  land  of  charming 
cottages,  thriving  towns,  hospitable  to  the  fruit  of 
every  chme;  a  land  of  perpetual  sun  and  ever-flowing 
breeze,  looked  down  on  by  purple  mountain  ranges 
tipped  here  and  there  with  enduring  snow.  And  what 
is  in  progress  here  will  be  seen  before  long  in  almost 
every  part  of  this  wonderful  land,  for  conditions  of 
soil  and  climate  are  essentially  everywhere  the  same, 
and  capital  is  finding  out  how  to  store  in  and  bring 
from  the  fastnesses  of  the  mountains  rivers  of  clear 


16 


OUE   ITALY. 


FAN-PALM,  LOS   ANGELES. 


water  taken  at  such  elevations  that  the  whole  ara- 
ble surface  can  be  irrigated.  The  development  of  the 
country  has  only  just  begun. 

If  the  reader  will  look  upon  the  map  of  California 
he  will  see  that  the  eight  counties  that  form  Southern 
California — San  Luis  Obispo,  Santa  Barbara,  Yentura, 
Kern,  Los  Angeles,  San  Bernardino,  Orange,  and  San 
Diego — appear  very  mountainous.  He  will  also  notice 
that  the  eastern  slopes  of  San  Bernardino  and  San 
Diego  are  deserts.  But  this  is  an  immense  area.  San 
Diego  County  alone  is  as  large  as  Massachusetts,  Con- 


OUR   CLIMATIC   AND    COMMERCIAL   MEDITERRANEAN.      17 

necticut,  and  Rhode  Island  combined,  and  the  amount 
of  arable  land  in  the  valleys,  on  the  foot-hills,  on  the 
rolling  mesas,  is  enormous,  and  capable  of  sustaining  a 
dense  population,  for  its  fertility  and  its  yield  to  the 
acre  under  cultivation  are  incomparable.  The  reader 
will  also  notice  another  thing.  With  the  railroads 
now  built  and  certain  to  be  built  through  all  this  di- 
versified region,  round  fi-om  the  Santa  Barbara  Mount- 
ains  to   the    San   Bernardino,  the   San   Jacinto,  and 


YUCCA-PALM,   SANTA  BARBARA. 


18  OUK  ITALY. 

down  to  Cuyamaca,  a  ride  of  an  hour  or  two  hours 
brings  one  to  some  point  on  the  250  miles  of  sea-coast 
— a  sea -coast  genial,  inviting  in  winter  and  summer, 
never  harsh,  and  rarely  tempestuous  hke  the  Atlantic 
shore. 

Here  is  our  Mediterranean !  Here  is  our  Italy!  It 
is  a  Mediterranean  without  marshes  and  without  mal- 
aria, and  it  does  not  at  all  resemble  the  Mexican  Grulf , 
which  we  have  sometimes  tried  to  fancy  was  hke  the 
classic  sea  that  laves  Africa  and  Europe.  Nor  is  this 
region  Italian  in  appearance,  though  now  and  then 
some  bay  with  its  purple  hills  running  to  the  blue  sea, 
its  surrounding  mesas  and  canons  blooming  in  semi- 
tropical  luxuriance,  some  conjunction  of  shore  and 
mountain,  some  golden  color,  some  white  light  and 
sharply  defined  shadows,  some  refinement  of  hues, 
some  poetic  tints  in  violet  and  ashy  ranges,  some 
ultramarine  in  the  sea,  or  dehcate  blue  in  the  sky,  will 
remind  the  traveller  of  more  than  one  place  of  beauty 
in  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily.  It  is  a  Mediterranean 
with  a  more  equable  climate,  warmer  winters  and 
cooler  summers,  than  the  North  Mediterranean  shore 
can  offer;  it  is  an  Italy  whose  mountains  and  valleys 
give  almost  every  variety  of  elevation  and  temperature. 

But  it  is  our  commercial  Mediterranean.  The  time 
is  not  distant  when  this  corner  of  the  United  States 
will  produce  in  abundance,  and  year  after  year  with- 
out failure,  all  the  fruits  and  nuts  which  for  a  thou- 
sand years  the  civilized  world  of  Europe  has  looked  to 
the  Mediterranean  to  supply.  We  shall  not  need  any 
more  to  send  over  the  Atlantic  for  raisins,  Enghsh 
walnuts,  almonds,  figs,  ohves,  prunes,  oranges,  lemons, 
limes,  and  a  variety  of  other  things  which  we  know 


OUK   CLBIATIC  AND   COMMERCIAL  MEDITERRANEAN.     19 

commercially  as  Mediterranean  products.  We  have 
all  this  luxury  and  wealth  at  our  doors,  within  our 
hmits.  The  orange  and  the  lemon  we  shall  still  bring 
from  many  places ;  the  date  and  the  pineapple  and  the 
banana  will  never  grow  here  except  as  illustrations  of 
the  chmate,  but  it  is  difficult  to  name  any  fruit  of  the 
temperate  and  semi -tropic  zones  that  Southern  Cah- 
fornia  cannot  be  relied  on  to  produce,  from  the  guava 
to  the  peach. 

It  will  need  further  experiment  to  determine  what 
are  the  more  profitable  products  of  this  soil,  and  it 
will  take  longer  experience  to  cultivate  them  and  send 
them  to  market  in  perfection.  The  pomegranate  and 
the  apple  thrive  side  by  side,  but  the  apple  is  not  good 
here  unless  it  is  gi'own  at  an  elevation  where  frost  is 
certain  and  occasional  snow  may  be  expected.  There 
is  no  longer  any  doubt  about  the  peach,  the  nectarine, 
the  pear,  the  grape,  the  orange,  the  lemon,  the  apricot, 
and  so  on;  but  I  believe  that  the  greatest  profit  will 
be  in  the  products  that  cannot  be  grown  elsewhere  in 
the  United  States — the  products  to  which  we  have 
long  given  the  name  of  Mediterranean — the  ohve,  the 
fig,  the  raisin,  the  hard  and  soft  shell  almond,  and  the 
walnut.  The  orange  will  of  course  be  a  staple,  and 
constantly  improve  its  reputation  as  better  varieties 
are  raised,  and  the  right  amount  of  irrigation  to  pro- 
duce the  finest  and  sweetest  is  ascertained. 

It  is  still  a  wonder  that  a  land  in  which  there  was 
no  indigenous  product  of  value,  or  to  which  cultiva- 
tion could  give  value,  should  be  so  hospitable  to  every 
sort  of  tree,  shrub,  root,  grain,  and  fiower  that  can  be 
brought  here  from  any  zone  and  temperature,  and 
that  many  of  these  foreigners  to  the  soil  grow  here 


20  OUR  ITALY. 

with  a  vigor  and  productiveness  surpassing  those  in 
their  native  land.     Tliis  bewildering  adaptabihty  has 
misled  many  into  unprofitable  experiments,  and  the 
very  rapidity  of   growth   has   been   a   disadvantage. 
The  land  has  been  advertised  by  its  monstrous  vege- 
table productions,  which  are  not  fit  to  eat,  and  but 
testify  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil ;  and  the  reputation 
of  its  fruits,  both  deciduous  and  citrus,  has  suffered 
by  specimens  sent  to  Eastern  markets  whose  sole  rec- 
ommendation was  size.     Even  in  the  \4neyards  and 
orange  orchards  quality  has  been  sacrificed  to  quan- 
tity.    Nature  here  responds  generously  to  every  en- 
couragement, but  it  cannot  be  forced  without  taking 
its  revenge  in  the  return  of  inferior  quality.     It  is  just 
as  true  of  Southern  California  as  of  any  other  land, 
that  hard  work  and  sagacity  and  experience  are  neces- 
sary to  successful  horticulture   and  agriculture,  but 
it  is  undeniably  true  that  the  same  amount  of  well- 
directed  industry  upon  a  much  smaller  area  of  land 
will  produce  more  return  than  in  almost  any  other 
section  of  the  United  States.     Sensible  people  do  not 
any  longer  pay  much  attention  to  those  tempting  little 
arithmetical  sums  by  which  it  is  demonstrated  that 
paying  so  much  for  ten  acres  of  barren  land,  and  so 
much  for  planting  it  with  vines  or  oranges,  the  in- 
come in  three  years  will  be  a  competence  to  the  in- 
vestor and  his  family.     People   do  not  sj)end  much 
time  now  in  gaping  over  abnormal  vegetables,  or  try- 
ing to  convince  themselves  that  wines  of  every  known 
variety  and  flavor  can  be  produced  within  the  limits 
of  one  flat  and  well- watered  field.     Few  now  expect  to 
make  a  fortune  by  cutting  arid  land  up  into  twenty- 
feet  lots,  but  notwithstanding  the  extravagance  of  re- 


OUR   CLIMATIC   AND   COMMERCIAL   MEDITERRANEAN.     23 

cent  speculation,  tlie  value  of  arable  land  has  steadily 
appreciated,  and  is  not  likely  to  recede,  for  the  return 
from  it,  either  in  fruits,  vegetables,  or  grain,  is  dem- 
onstrated to  be  beyond  the  experience  of  farming  else- 
where. 

Land  cannot  be  called  dear  at  one  hundred  or  one 
thousand  dollars  an  acre  if  the  annual  return  from  it 
is  fifty  or  five  hundred  dollars.  The  climate  is  most 
agreeable  the  year  through.  There  are  no  unpleasant 
months,  and  few  unpleasant  days.  The  eucalyptus 
grows  so  fast  that  the  trunmings  from  the  trees  of  a 
small  grove  or  highway  avenue  will  in  four  or  five 
years  furnish  a  family  with  its  firewood.  The  strong, 
fattening  aKalfa  gives  three,  four,  five,  and  even  six 
harvests  a  year.  Nature  needs  httle  rest,  and,  with 
the  encouragement  of  water  and  fertihzers,  apparently 
none.  But  all  this  prodigahty  and  easiness  of  life  de- 
tracts a  httle  from  ambition.  The  lesson  has  been 
slowly  learned,  but  it  is  now  pretty  well  conned,  that 
hard  work  is  as  necessary  here  as  elsewhere  to  thrift 
and  independence.  The  difference  between  this  and 
many  other  parts  of  our  land  is  that  nature  seems  to 
work  with  a  man,  and  not  against  him. 


CHAPTER  III. 

EAELY    VICISSITUDES.  —  PRODUCTIONS.  —  SANITARY 
CLIMATE. 

Southern  California  has  rapidly  passed  through 
varied  experiences,  and  has  not  yet  had  a  fair  chance 
to  show  the  world  what  it  is.  It  had  its  period  of  ro- 
mance, of  pastoral  life,  of  lawless  adventure,  of  crazy 
speculation,  all  within  a  hundred  years,  and  it  is  just 
now  entering  upon  its  period  of  sohd,  civihzed  devel- 
opment. A  certain  light  of  romance  is  cast  upon  this 
coast  by  the  Spanish  voyagers  of  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury, but  its  history  begins  with  the  establishment  of 
the  chain  of  Franciscan  missions,  the  first  of  which 
was  founded  by  the  great  Father  Junipero  Serra  at 
San  Diego  in  1769.  The  fathers  brought  with  them 
the  vine  and  the  olive,  reduced  the  savage  Indians  to 
industrial  pursuits,  and  opened  the  way  for  that  ran- 
chero  and  adobe  civilization  which,  down  to  the  com- 
ing of  the  American,  in  about  1840,  made  in  this  re- 
gion the  most  picturesque  hfe  that  our  continent  has 
ever  seen.  Following  this  is  a  period  of  desperado 
adventure  and  revolution,  of  pioneer  State -building; 
and  then  the  advent  of  the  restless,  the  cranky,  the 
invalid,  the  fanatic,  from  every  other  State  in  the 
Union.  The  first  experimenters  in  making  homes 
seem  to  have  fancied  that  they  had  come  to  a  ready- 
made  elysium — the  idle  man's  heaven.     They  seem  to 


EAKLY   ^aCISSITUDES,  PRODUCTIONS,  ETC.  25 

have  brought  with  them  httle  knowledge  of  agrieult- 
ui-e  or  horticulture,  were  ignorant  of  the  conditions  of 
success  in  this  soil  and  climate,  and  left  behind  the 
good  industrial  maxims  of  the  East.  The  result  was 
a  period  of  chance  experiment,  one  in  which  extrava- 
gant expectation  and  boasting  to  some  extent  took  the 
place  of  industry.  The  imagination  was  heated  by 
the  novelty  of  such  varied  and  rapid  productiveness. 
Men's  minds  were  inflamed  by  the  apparently  limitless 
possibilities.  The  invahd  and  the  speculator  throng- 
ed the  transcontinental  roads  leading  thither.  In  this 
condition  the  frenzy  of  1886-87  was  ine\dtable.  I  saw 
something  of  it  in  the  winter  of  1887.  The  scenes 
then  daily  and  commonplace  now  read  like  the  wild- 
est freaks  of  the  imagination. 

The  bubble  collapsed  as  suddenly  as  it  expanded. 
Many  were  ruined,  and  left  the  country.  More  were 
merely  ruined  in  their  great  expectations.  The  spec- 
ulation was  in  town  lots.  When  it  subsided  it  left 
the  climate  as  it  was,  the  fertility  as  it  was,  and  the 
value  of  arable  land  not  reduced.  Marvellous  as  the 
boom  was,  I  think  the  present  recuperation  is  still 
more  wonderful.  In  1890,  to  be  sure,  I  miss  the 
bustle  of  the  cities,  and  the  creation  of  towns  in  a 
week  under  the  hammer  of  the  auctioneer.  But  in  all 
the  cities,  and  most  of  the  villages,  there  has  been 
growth  in  substantial  buildings,  and  in  the  necessities 
of  civic  life — good  sewerage,  water  supply,  and  gen- 
eral organization;  while  the  country,  as  the  acreage 
of  vines  and  oranges,  wheat  and  barley,  grain  and 
corn,  and  the  shipments  by  rail  testify,  has  imi3roved 
more  than  at  any  other  period,  and  commerce  is  be- 
ginning to  feel  the  impulse  of  a  genuine  prosperity, 


26  OUE   ITALY. 

based  upon  the  intelligent  cultivation  of  the  ground. 
School -houses  have  multiplied;  libraries  have  been 
founded ;  many  "  boom "  hotels,  built  in  order  to  sell 
city  lots  in  the  sage-brush,  have  been  turned  into 
schools  and  colleges. 

There  is  immense  rivalry  between  different  sec- 
tions. Every  Californian  thinks  that  the  spot  where 
his  house  stands  enjoys  the  best  climate  and  is  the 
most  fertile  in  the  world ;  and  while  you  are  with  him 
you  think  he  is  justified  in  his  opinion ;  for  this  rival- 
ry is  generally  a  wholesome  one,  backed  by  industry. 
I  do  not  mean  to  say  that  the  habit  of  tall  talk  is  al- 
together lost.  Whatever  one  sees  he  is  asked  to  be- 
heve  is  the  largest  and  best  in  the  world.  The  gentle- 
man of  the  whip  who  showed  us  some  of  the  finest 
places  in  Los  Angeles — places  that  in  their  wealth  of 
flowers  and  semi-tropical  gardens  would  rouse  the 
enthusiasm  of  the  most  jaded  traveller  —  was  asked 
whether  there  were  any  finer  in  the  city.  "  Finer  ? 
Hundreds  of  them;"  and  then,  meditatively  and  re- 
gretfully, "  I  should  not  dare  to  show  you  the  best." 
The  semi-ecclesiastical  custodian  of  the  old  adobe  mis- 
sion of  San  Gabriel  explained  to  us  the  twenty  por- 
traits of  apostles  on  the  walls,  all  done  by  Murillo. 
As  they  had  got  out  of  repair,  he  had  them  all  re- 
painted by  the  best  artist.  "  That  one,"  he  said,  sim- 
ply, "  cost  ten  dollars.  It  often  costs  more  to  repaint 
a  picture  than  to  buy  an  original." 

The  temporary  evils  in  the  train  of  the  "boom" 
are  fast  disappearing.  I  was  told  that  I  should  find 
the  country  stagnant.  Trade,  it  is  true,  is  only  slowly 
coming  in,  real -estate  deals  are  sleeping,  but  in  all 
avenues  of  sohd  prosperity  and  productiveness  the 


EAELY  VICISSITUDES,  PRODUCTIONS,  ETC.  29 

country  is  the  reverse  of  stagnant.  Another  misap- 
prehension this  visit  is  correcting.  I  was  told  not  to 
visit  Southern  Cahfornia  at  this  season  on  account  of 
the  heat.  But  I  have  no  experience  of  a  more  de- 
hghtful  summer  cUmate  than  tliis,  especially  on  or 
near  the  coast. 

In  secluded  valleys  in  the  interior  the  thermometer 
rises  in  the  daytime  to  85°,  90°,  and  occasionally  100°, 
but  I  have  found  no  place  in  them  where  there  was 
not  daily  a  refreshing  breeze  from  the  ocean,  where 
the  dryness  of  the  air  did  not  make  the  heat  seem 
much  less  than  it  was,  and  where  the  nights  were  not 
agreeably  cool.  My  behef  is  that  the  summer  climate 
of  Southern  Cahfornia  is  as  desirable  for  pleasure- 
seekers,  for  invalids,  for  workmen,  as  its  winter  cli- 
mate. It  seems  to  me  that  a  coast  temperature  60° 
to  75°,  stimulating,  ^\dthout  harshness  or  dampness,  is 
about  the  perfection  of  summer  w^eather.  It  should 
be  said,  however,  that  there  are  secluded  valleys 
which  become  very  hot  in  the  daytime  in  midsum- 
mer, and  intolerably  dusty.  The  dust  is  the  great 
annoyance  everywhere.  It  gives  the  whole  landscape 
an  ashy  tint,  like  some  of  our  Eastern  fields  and  way- 
sides in  a  dry  August.  The  verdure  and  the  wild 
flowers  of  the  rainy  season  disappear  entirely.  There 
is,  however,  some  picturesque  compensation  for  this 
dust  and  lack  of  green.  The  mountains  and  hills  and 
great  plains  take  on  w^onderful  hues  of  bi'own,  yellow, 
and  red. 

I  write  this  paragraph  in  a  high  chamber  in  the 
Hotel  del  Coronado,  on  the  great  and  fertile  beach  in 
front  of  San  Diego.  It  is  the  2d  of  June.  Looking 
southward,  I   see   the  great   expanse    of  the   Pacific 


30  OUE  ITALY. 

Ocean,  sparkling  in  the  sun  as  blue  as  the  waters  at 
Amalfi.  A  low  surf  beats  along  the  miles  and  miles 
of  white  sand  continually,  with  the  impetus  of  far-off 
seas  and  trade -winds,  as  it  has  beaten  for  thousands 
of  years,  with  one  unending  roar  and  swish,  and 
occasional  shocks  of  sound  as  if  of  distant  thunder 
on  the  shore.  Yonder,  to  the  right,  Point  Loma 
stretches  its  sharp  and  rocky  promontory  into  the 
ocean,  purple  in  the  sun,  bearing  a  light -house  on  its 
highest  elevation.  From  this  signal,  bending  in  a 
perfect  crescent,  with  a  silver  rim,  the  shore  sweeps 
around  twenty -five  miles  to  another  promontory  run- 
ning down  beyond  Tia  Juana  to  the  Point  of  Rocks, 
in  Mexican  territory.  Directly  in  front — they  say 
eighteen  miles  away,  I  think  five  sometimes,  and 
sometimes  a  hundred — lie  the  islands  of  Coronado, 
named,  I  suppose,  from  the  old  Spanish  adventurer 
Vasques  de  Coronado,  huge  bulks  of  beautiful  red 
sandstone,  uninhabited  and  barren,  becalmed  there  in 
the  changing  blue  of  sky  and  sea,  hke  enormous 
mastless  galleons,  like  degraded  icebergs,  hke  Capri 
and  Ischia.  They  say  that  they  are  stationary.  I 
only  know  that  when  I  walk  along  the  shore  towards 
Point  Loma  they  seem  to  follow,  until  they  he  oppo- 
site the  harbor  entrance,  which  is  close  by  the  prom- 
ontory; and  that  when  I  return,  they  recede  and  go 
away  towards  Mexico,  to  which  they  belong.  Some- 
times, as  seen  from  the  beach,  owing  to  the  differ- 
ence in  the  humidity  of  the  strata  of  air  over  the 
ocean,  they  seem  smaller  at  the  bottom  than  at  the 
top.  Occasionally  they  come  quite  near,  as  do  the 
sea -lions  and  the  gulls,  and  again  they  almost  fade 
out  of  the  horizon  in  a  violet  light.     This  morning 


IN  THE   GARDEN   AT  SANTA    BAKBARA    MISSION. 


EAELY   ATCISSITUDES,  PRODUCTIONS,  ETC.  33 

they  stand  away,  and  the  fleet  of  white-sailed  fishing- 
boats  from  the  Portuguese  hamlet  of  La  Playa,  ^\ith- 
in  the  harbor  entrance,  which  is  dancing  off  Point 
Loma,  will  have  a  long  sail  if  they  pui'sue  the  barra- 
cuda to  those  shadowy  rocks. 

We  crossed  the  bay  the  other  day,  and  drove  wp 
a  \\ald  road  to  the  height  of  the  promontory,  and 
along  its  narrow  ridge  to  the  light -house.  This  site 
commands  one  of  the  most  remarkable  views  in  the 
accessible  civilized  world,  one  of  the  three  or  four 
really  great  prospects  which  the  traveller  can  recall, 
astonishing  in  its  immensity,  interesting  in  its  pecul- 
iar details.  The  general  features  are  the  great  ocean, 
blue,  flecked  with  sparkling,  breaking  wavelets,  and 
the  wide,  curving  coast -line,  rising  into  mesas,  foot- 
hills, ranges  on  ranges  of  mountains,  the  faintly  seen 
snow -peaks  of  San  Bernardino  and  San  Jacinto  to 
the  Cuyamaca  and  the  flat  top  of  Table  Mountain  in 
Mexico.  Directly  under  us  on  one  side  are  the  fields 
of  kelp,  where  the  whales  come  to  feed  in  winter; 
and  on  the  other  is  a  point  of  sand  on  Coronado 
Beach,  where  a  flock  of  pelicans  have  assembled  after 
their  day's  fishing,  in  which  occupation  they  are  the 
rivals  of  the  Portuguese.  The  perfect  crescent  of 
the  ocean  beach  is  seen,  the  singular  formation  of 
North  and  South  Coronado  Beach,  the ,  entrance  to 
the  harbor  along  Point  Loma,  and  the  spacious  inner 
bay,  on  which  lie  San  Diego  and  National  City,  with 
lowlands  and  heights  outside  sprinkled  with  houses, 
gardens,  orchards,  and  vineyards.  The  near  hills 
about  this  harbor  are  varied  in  form  and  poetic  in 
color,  one  of  them,  the  conical  San  Miguel,  con- 
stantly recalling  Vesuvius.     Indeed,  the  near  \iew,  in 

3 


34  OUR  ITALY. 

color,  vegetation,  and  forms  of  Mils  and  extent  of 
arable  land,  suggests  that  of  Naples,  though  on  anal- 
ysis it  does  not  resemble  it.  If  San  Diego  had  half 
a  million  of  people  it  would  be  more  hke  it ;  but  the 
Naples  view  is  limited,  while  this  stretches  away  to 
the  great  mountains  that  overlook  the  Colorado  Des- 
ert. It  is  certainly  one  of  the  loveliest  prospects  in 
the  world,  and  worth  long  travel  to  see. 

Standing  upon  this  point  of  ^dew,  I  am  reminded 
again  of  the  striking  contrasts  and  contiguous  differ- 
ent chmates  on  the  coast.  In  the  north,  of  course  not 
visible  from  here,  is  Mount  Whitney,  on  the  borders 
of  Inyo  County  and  of  the  State  of  Nevada,  15,086 
feet  above  the  sea,  the  highest  peak  in  the  United 
States,  excluding  Alaska.  South  of  it  is  Grayback,  in 
the  San  Bernardino  range,  11,000  feet  in  altitude,  the 
highest  point  above  its  base  in  the  United  States. 
While  south  of  that  is  the  depression  in  the  Col- 
orado Desert  in  San  Diego  County,  about  three  hun- 
dred feet  below  the  level  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  the 
lowest  land  in  the  United  States.  These  three  ex- 
ceptional points  can  be  said  to  be  almost  in  ^ight  of 
each  other. 

I  have  insisted  so  much  upon  the  Mediterranean 
character  of  this  region  that  it  is  necessary  to  em- 
phasize the  contrasts  also.  Reserving  details  and 
comments  on  different  locahties  as  to  the  commercial 
value  of  products  and  climatic  conditions,  I  will  make 
some  general  observations.  I  am  convinced  that  the 
fig  can  not  only  be  grown  here  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  supply  our  markets,  but  of  the  best  quahty.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  the  Enghsh  walnut.  This  clean 
and  handsome  tree  thrives  wonderfully  in  large  areas. 


EAELY  \T:CISSITUDES,  PRODUCTIONS,  ETC.  37 

and  has  no  enemies.  The  ohve  culture  is  in  its  in- 
fancy, but  I  have  never  tasted  better  oil  than  that 
produced  at  Santa  Barbara  and  on  San  Diego  Bay. 
Specimens  of  the  pickled  olive  are  delicious,  and  when 
the  best  varieties  are  generally  grown,  and  the  best 
method  of  curing  is  adopted,  it  will  be  in  great  de- 
mand, not  as  a  mere  relish,  but  as  food.  The  raisin 
is  produced  in  all  the  valleys  of  Southern  California, 
and  in  great  quantities  in  the  hot  valley  of  San  Joa- 
quin, beyond  the  Sierra  Madre  range.  The  best  Mal- 
aga raisins,  which  have  the  reputation  of  being  the 
best  in  the  world,  may  never  come  to  our  market,  l^ut 
I  have  never  eaten  a  better  raisin  for  size,  flavor,  and 
thinness  of  skin  than  those  raised  in  the  El  Cajon 
Valley,  which  is  watered  by  the  great  flume  which 
taps  a  reservoir  in  the  Cuyamaca  Mountains,  and  sup- 
plies San  Diego.  But  the  quahty  of  the  raisin  in  Cal- 
ifornia will  be  improved  by  experience  in  cultivation 
and  handling. 

The  contrast  with  the  Mediterranean  region — I  re- 
fer to  the  western  basin  —  is  in  climate.  There  is 
hardly  any  point  along  the  French  and  Italian  coast 
that  is  not  subject  to  great  and  sudden  changes, 
caused  by  the  north  wind,  which  has  many  names,  or 
in  the  extreme  southern  peninsula  and  islands  by  the 
sirocco.  There  are  few  points  that  are  not  reached 
by  malaria,  and  in  many  resorts — and  some  of  them 
most  sunny  and  agreeable  to  the  invalid — the  deadli- 
est fevers  always  lie  in  wait.  There  is  great  contrast 
between  summer  and  winter,  and  exceeding  variability 
in  the  same  month.  This  variability  is  the  parent  of 
many  diseases  of  the  lungs,  the  bowels,  and  the  hver. 
It  is  demonstrated  now  by  long  -  continued  observa- 


*T>    «     /«    /«  r*tf  k 


38  OUK  ITALY. 

tions  that  dampness  and  cold  are  not  so  inimical  to 
health  as  variability. 

The  Southern  Cahfornia  climate  is  an  anomaly.  It 
has  been  the  subject  of  a  good  deal  of  wonder  and  a 
good  deal  of  boasting,  but  it  is  worthy  of  more  scien- 
tific study  than  it  has  yet  received.  Its  distinguishing 
feature  I  take  to  be  its  equabihty.  The  temperature 
the  year  through  is  lower  than  I  had  supposed,  and 
the  contrast  is  not  great  between  the  summer  and  the 
winter  months.  The  same  clothing  is  appropriate, 
speaking  generally,  for  the  whole  year.  In  all  sea- 
sons, including  the  rainy  days  of  the  winter  months, 
sunshine  is  the  rule.  The  variation  of  temperature 
between  day  and  night  is  considerable,  but  if  the  new- 
comer exercises  a  httle  care,  he  will  not  be  unpleas- 
antly affected  by  it.  There  are  coast  fogs,  but  these 
are  not  chilling  and  raw.  Why  it  is  that  with  the 
hydi'ometer  showing  a  considerable  humidity  in  the 
air  the  general  effect  of  the  chmate  is  that  of  diyness, 
scientists  must  explain.  The  constant  exchange  of 
desert  airs  with  the  ocean  air  may  account  for  the 
anomaly,  and  the  actual  dryness  of  the  soil,  even  on 
the  coast,  is  put  forward  as  another  explanation. 
Those  who  come  from  heated  rooms  on  the  Atlantic 
may  find  the  winters  cooler  than  they  expect,  and 
those  used  to  the  heated  terms  of  the  Mississippi  Val- 
ley and  the  East  will  be  surprised  at  the  cool  and  sa- 
lubrious summers.  A  land  without  high  winds  or 
thunder-storms  may  fairly  be  said  to  have  a  unique 
chmate. 

I  suppose  it  is  the  equability  and  not  conditions 
of  dampness  or  dryness  that  renders  this  region  so  re- 
markably exempt  from  epidemics   and  endemic   dis- 


EAELY  VICISSITUDES,  PRODUCTIONS,  ETC. 


39 


eases.  The  diseases  of  cliildren  prevalent  elsewhere 
are  unknown  here ;  they  cut  their  teeth  without  risk, 
and  cholera  infantum  never  ^dsits  them.  Diseases  of 
the  bowels  are  practically  unknown.  There  is  no 
malaria,  whatever  that  may  be,  and  consequently  an 


LIVE-OAK  NEAR  LOS  ANGELES. 


absence  of  those  various  fevers  and  other  disorders 
which  are  attributed  to  malarial  conditions.  Renal 
diseases  are  also  wanting;  disorders  of  the  liver  and 
kidneys,  and  Bright's  disease,  gout,  and  rheumatism, 
are  not  native.  The  chmate  in  its  effect  is  stimu- 
lating, but  at  the  same  time  soothing  to  the  nerves, 
so  that  if  "nervous  prostration"  is  wanted,  it  must 


40  OUR   ITALY. 

be  broiiglit  here,  and  cannot  be  relied  on  to  continue 
long.  These  facts  are  derived  from  medical  practice 
with  the  native  Indian  and  Mexican  population.  Dr. 
Remondino,  to  whom  I  have  before  referred,  has  made 
the  subject  a  study  for  eighteen  years,  and  later  I 
shall  offer  some  of  the  results  of  his  observations 
upon  longevity.  It  is  beyond  my  province  to  vent- 
ure any  suggestion  upon  the  effect  of  the  chmate 
upon  deep-seated  diseases,  especially  of  the  respira- 
tory organs,  of  invalids  who  come  here  for  health.  I 
only  know  that  we  meet  daily  and  constantly  so 
many  persons  in  fair  health  who  say  that  it  is  im- 
possible for  them  to  live  elsewhere  that  the  impres- 
sion is  produced  that  a  considerable  proportion  of 
the  immigrant  population  was  invalid.  There  are, 
however,  two  suggestions  that  should  be  made.  Care 
is  needed  in  acchmation  to  a  chmate  that  differs 
from  any  previous  experience ;  and  the  locahty  that 
^dll  suit  any  invahd  can  only  be  determined  by  per- 
sonal experience.  If  the  coast  does  not  suit  him,  he 
may  be  benefited  in  a  protected  valley,  or  he  may  be 
improved  on  the  foot-hiUs,  or  on  an  elevated  mesa,  or 
on  a  high  mountain  elevation. 

One  thing  may  be  regarded  as  settled.  Whatever 
the  sensibility  or  the  peculiarity  of  invahdism,  the 
equable  climate  is  exceedingly  favorable  to  the  smooth 
working  of  the  great  organic  fmictions  of  respiration, 
digestion,  and  circulation. 

It  is  a  pity  to  give  this  chapter  a  medical  tone. 
One  need  not  be  an  invahd  to  come  here  and  appre- 
ciate the  graciousness  of  the  air;  the  color  of  the 
landscape,  which  is  wanting  in  our  Northern  clime ; 
the  constant  procession  of  flowers  the  year  through; 


EAELY  VICISSITUDES,  PKODUCTIONS,  ETC.  41 

the  purple  hills  stretching  into  the  sea ;  the  hundreds 
of  hamlets,  with  picturesque  homes  overgrown  with 
roses  and  geranium  and  heliotrope,  in  the  midst  of 
orange  orchards  and  of  palms  and  magnolias,  in  sight 
of  the  snow -peaks  of  the  giant  mountain  ranges 
which  shut  in  this  land  of  marvellous  beauty. 


CHAPTEK  IV. 
THE    WINTEE    OF    OUB    CONTENT. 

Califoknia  is  the  land  of  the  Pine  and  the  Palm. 
The  tree  of  the  Sierras,  native,  vigorous,  gigantic,  and 
the  tree  of  the  Desert,  exotic,  supple,  poetic,  both 
flourish  within  the  nine  degrees  of  latitude.  These 
two,  the  widely  separated  lovers  of  Heine's  song,  sym- 
bohze  the  capacities  of  the  State,  and  although  the 
sugar -pine  is  indigenous,  and  the  date-palm,  which 
will  never  be  more  than  an  ornament  in  this  hos- 
pitable soil,  was  planted  by  the  Franciscan  Fathers, 
who  estabhshed  a  chain  of  missions  from  San  Diego 
to  Monterey  over  a  century  ago,  they  should  both  be 
the  distinction  of  one  commonwealth,  which,  in  its 
seven  hundred  miles  of  indented  sea-coast,  can  boast 
the  climates  of  all  countries  and  the  products  of  all 
zones. 

If  this  State  of  mountains  and  valleys  were  divided 
by  an  east  and  west  hue,  following  the  general  course 
of  the  Sierra  Madre  range,  and  cutting  off  the  eight 
lower  counties,  I  suppose  there  would  be  conceit 
enough  in  either  section  to  maintain  that  it  only  is 
the  Paradise  of  the  earth,  but  both  are  necessary  to 
make  the  unique  and  contradictory  Cahfornia  which 
fascinates  and  bewilders  the  traveller.  He  is  told 
that  the  inhabitants  of  San  Francisco  go  away  from 
the  draught  of  the  Grolden  Grate  in  the  summer  to  get 


THE   WINTER   OF   OUR   CONTENT.  43 

warm,  and  yet  the  earliest  luscious  cherries  and  apri- 
cots which  he  finds  in  the  far  south  market  of  San 
Diego  come  from  the  Northern  Santa  Clara  Yalley. 
^  The  truth  would  seem  to  be  that  in  an  hour's  ride  in 
any  part  of  the  State  one  can  change  his  chmate  to- 
tally at  any  time  of  the  year,  and  this  not  merely  by 
changing  his  elevation,  but  by  getting  in  or  out  of  the 
range  of  the  sea  or  the  desert  currents  of  air  which 
follow  the  valleys. 

To  recommend  to  any  one  a  wdnter  climate  is  far 
from  the  T\T.iter's  thought.  No  two  persons  agree  on 
what  is  desirable  for  a  mnter  residence,  and  the  inch- 
nation  of  the  same  person  varies  wdth  his  state  of 
health.  I  can  only  attempt  to  give  some  idea  of  what 
is  called  the  "^dnter  months  in  Southern  Cahfornia,  to 
which  my  observations  mainly  apply.  The  individual 
who  comes  here  under  the  mistaken  notion  that  ch- 
mate ever  does  anything  more  than  give  nature  a  bet- 
ter chance,  may  speedily  or  more  tardily  need  the  ser- 
vice of  an  undertaker ;  and  the  invahd  whose  powers 
are  responsive  to  kindly  influences  may  live  so  long, 
being  unable  to  get  away,  that  life  will  be  a  bui'den 
to  him.  The  person  in  ordinary  health  mil  find  very 
little  that  is  hostile  to  the  orderly  organic  processes. 
In  order  to  appreciate  the  winter  chmate  of  Southern 
California  one  should  stay  here  the  year  through,  and 
select  the  days  that  suit  his  idea  of  winter  from  any 
of  the  months.  From  the  fact  that  the  greatest  hu- 
midity is  in  the  summer  and  the  least  in  the  winter 
months,  he  may  wear  an  overcoat  in  July  in  a  tem- 
perature, according  to  the  thermometer,  which  in  Jan- 
uary would  render  the  overcoat  unnecessary.  It  is 
dampness  that  causes  both  cold  and  heat  to  be  most 


44  OUE  ITALY. 

felt.  The  lowest  temperatures,  in  Southern  Cahfornia 
generally,  are  caused  only  by  the  extreme  dryness  of 
the  air ;  in  the  long  nights  of  December  and  January 
there  is  a  more  rapid  and  longer  continued  radiation 
of  heat.  It  must  be  a  dry  and  clear  night  that  will 
send  the  temperature  down  to  thirty -four  degrees. 
But  the  effect  of  the  sun  upon  this  air  is  instanta- 
neous, and  the  cold  morning  is  followed  at  once  by  a 
warm  forenoon;  the  difference  between  the  average 
heat  of  July  and  the  average  cold  of  January,  meas- 
ui'ed  by  the  thermometer,  is  not  great  in  the  valleys, 
foot-hills,  and  on  the  coast.  Five  points  give  this 
result  of  average  for  January  and  July  respective- 
ly :  Santa  Barbara,  52°,  66° ;  San  Bernardino,  51°,  70° ; 
Pomona,  52°,  68° ;  Los  Angeles,  52°,  67° ;  San  Diego, 
53°,  66°.  The  day  in  the  winter  months  is  warmer 
in  the  interior  and  the  nights  are  cooler  than  on  the 
coast,  as  shown  by  the  following  figures  for  January : 
7  A.M.,  Los  Angeles,  46.5°;  San  Diego,  47.5°;  3  p.m., 
Los  Angeles,  65.2° ;  San  Diego,  60.9°.  In  the  summer 
the  difference  is  greater.  In  June  I  saw  the  ther- 
mometer reach  103°  in  Los  Angeles  when  it  was  only 
79°  in  San  Diego.  But  I  have  seen  the  weather  unen- 
durable in  New  York  with  a  temperature  of  85°,  while 
this  dry  heat  of  103°  was  not  oppressive.  The  extraor- 
dinary equanimity  of  the  coast  climate  (certainly  the 
driest  marine  climate  in  my  experience)  will  be  evi- 
dent from  the  average  mean  for  each  month,  from 
records  of  sixteen  years,  ending  ni  1877,  taken  at  San 
Diego,  giving  each  month  in  order,  beginning  with 
January:  53.5°,  54.7°,  56.0°,  58.2°,  60.2°,  64.6°,  67.1°, 
69.0°,  66.7°,  62.9°,  58.1°,  56.0°.  In  the  year  1877  the 
mean  temperature  at  3  p.m.  at  San  Diego  was  as  fol- 


THE  WINTER   OF   OUE   CONTENT.  45 

lows,  beginning  with  January:  60.9°,  57.7°,  62.4°, 
63.3°,  66.3°,  68.5^  69.6^  69.6^  69.5°,  69.6°,  64.4°,  60.5°. 
For  the  four  months  of  July,  August,  September,  and 
October  there  was  hardly  a  shade  of  difference  at 
3  P.M.  The  striking  fact  in  all  the  records  I  have 
seen  is  that  the  difference  of  temperature  in  the  day- 
time between  summer  and  winter  is  very  small,  the 
great  difference  being  fi'om  midnight  to  just  before 
sunrise,  and  this  latter  difference  is  greater  inland 
than  on  the  coast.  There  are,  of  course,  frost  and 
ice  in  the  mountains,  but  the  frost  that  comes  oc- 
casionally in  the  low  inland  valleys  is  of  very  brief 
duration  in  the  morning  hour,  and  rarely  continues 
long  enough  to  have  a  serious  effect  upon  vegetation. 

In  considering  the  matter  of  temperature,  the  rule 
for  vegetation  and  for  invalids  will  not  be  the  same. 
A  spot  in  which  dehcate  flowers  in  Southern  Cali- 
fornia bloom  the  year  round  may  be  too  cool  for 
many  invalids.  It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the 
general  temperature  here  is  lower  than  that  to  which 
most  Eastern  people  are  accustomed.  They  are  used 
to  hving  all  winter  in  overheated  houses,  and  to  pro- 
tracted heated  terms  rendered  worse  by  humidity  in 
the  summer.  The  dry,  low  temperature  of  tlie  Cali- 
fornia winter,  notTvdthstanding  its  perpetual  sunshine, 
may  seem,  therefore,  wanting  to  them  in  direct 
warmth.  It  may  take  a  year  or  two  to  acclimate 
them  to  this  more  equable  and  more  refreshing  tem- 
perature. 

Neither  on  the  coast  nor  in  the  foot-hills  will  the 
invahd  find  the  chmate  of  the  Riviera  or  of  Tangier 
— not  the  tramontane  wind  of  the  former,  nor  the 
absolutely  genial  but  somewhat  enervating  climate  of 


46  OUK  ITALY. 

the  latter.     But  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  in 
this,  our    Mediterranean,  the    seeker    for    health    or 
pleasure  can  find  almost  any  climate  (except  the  very 
cold  or  the  very  hot),  down  to  the  minutest  subdivi- 
sion.    He  may  try  the   dry   marine   climate  of  the 
coast,  or  the  temperature  of  the  fruit  lands  and  gar- 
dens from  San  Bernardino  to  Los  Angeles,  or  he  may 
chmb   to   any  altitude  that  suits  him  in  the  Sierra 
Madre   or  the   San  Jacinto  ranges.      The   difference 
may  be  all -important  to  him  between  a  valley  and  a 
mesa  which  is  not  a  hundred  feet  higher;  nay,  be- 
tween a  valley  and  the  slope  of  a  foot-hill,  with  a 
shifting  of  not  more   than   fifty  feet   elevation,  the 
change  may  be  as  marked  for  him  as  it  is  for  the 
most  sensitive  young  fruit-tree.    It  is  undeniable,  not- 
withstanding these  encouraging  "  averages,"  that  cold 
snaps,  though  rare,  do  come   occasionally,  just  as  in 
summer  there  will  occur  one  or  two  or  three  con- 
tinued days  of  intense  heat.     And  in  the  summer  in 
some  locahties — it   happened  in   June,  1890,  in  the 
Santiago  hills  in  Orange  County — the  desert  sirocco, 
blowing  over  the   Colorado  furnace,  makes  life  just 
about  unendurable  for  days  at  a  time.     Yet  with  this 
dry  heat  sunstroke  is  never  experienced,  and  the  dis- 
eases of  the  bowels  usually  accompanying  hot  weather 
elsewhere  are  unknown.      The  experienced  traveller 
who    encounters   unpleasant   weather,   heat   that    he 
does  not  expect,  cold  that  he  did  not  provide  for,  or 
dust  that  deprives  him  of  his  last  atom  of  good -hu- 
mor, and  is  told  that  it  is  "  exceptional,"  knows  ex- 
actly what  that  word  means.     He   is  familiar  with 
the  "exceptional"  the  world  over,  and  he  feels  a  sort 
of  compassion  for  the  inhabitants  who  have  not  yet 


THE  WINTEK   OF   OUR   CONTENT.  47 

learned  the  adage,  "  Good  wine  needs  no  bush." 
Even  those  who  have  bought  more  land  than  they 
can  pay  for  can  afford  to  tell  the  truth. 

The  rainy  season  in  Southern  California,  which 
may  open  with  a  shower  or  two  in  October,  but  does 
not  set  in  till  late  in  November,  or  till  December,  and 
is  over  in  April,  is  not  at  all  a  period  of  cloudy 
weather  or  continuous  rainfall.  On  the  contrary, 
bright  warm  days  and  brilliant  sunshine  are  the  rule. 
The  rain  is  most  hkely  to  fall  in  the  night.  There 
may  be  a  day  of  rain,  or  several  days  that  are  over- 
cast with  distributed  rain,  but  the  showers  are  soon 
over,  and  the  sky  clears.  Yet  winters  vary  greatly 
in  this  respect,  the  rainfall  being  much  greater  in 
some  than  in  others.  In  1890  there  was  rain  beyond 
the  average,  and  even  on  the  equable  beach  of  Coro- 
nada  there  were  some  weeks  of  weather  that  from 
the  California  point  of  view  were  very  unpleasant. 
It  was  unpleasant  by  local  comparison,  but  it  was 
not  damp  and  chilly,  hke  a  protracted  period  of  fall- 
ing weather  on  the  Atlantic.  The  rain  comes  with  a 
southerly  wind,  caused  by  a  disturbance  far  north,  and 
with  the  resumption  of  the  prevaihng  westerly  ^vinds 
it  suddenly  ceases,  the  air  clears,  and  neither  before 
nor  after  it  is  the  atmosphere  "steamy"  or  enervating. 
The  average  annual  rainfall  of  the  Pacific  coast  dimin- 
ishes by  regular  gradation  from  point  to  point  all  the 
way  from  Puget  Sound  to  the  Mexican  boundary.  At 
Neah  Bay  it  is  111  inches,  and  it  steadily  lessens  down 
to  Santa  Cruz,  25.24 ;  Monterey,  11.42 ;  Point  Concep- 
tion, 12.21;  San  Diego,  11.01.  There  is  fog  on  the 
coast  in  every  month,  but  this  diminishes,  like  the 
rainfall,  from  north  to  south.     I  have  encountered  it 


48  OUR   ITALY. 

in  both  February  and  June.  In  the  south  it  is  apt  to 
be  most  persistent  in  April  and  May,  when  for  three 
or  four  days  together  there  will  be  a  fine  mist,  which 
any  one  but  a  Scotchman  would  call  rain.  Usually, 
however,  the  fog -bank  will  roll  in  during  the  night, 
and  disappear  by  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning.  There 
is  no  wet  season  properly  so  called,  and  consequently 
few  days  in  the  winter  months  when  it  is  not  agree- 
able to  be  out-of-doors,  perhaps  no  day  when  one  may 
not  walk  or  drive  during  some  part  of  it.  Yet  as  to  pre- 
cipitation or  temperature  it  is  impossible  to  strike  any 
general  average  for  Southern  California.  In  1883-84 
San  Diego  had  25.77  inches  of  rain,  and  Los  Angeles 
(fifteen  miles  inland)  had  38.22.  The  annual  average 
at  Los  Angeles  is  17.64;  but  in  1876-77  the  total  at 
San  Diego  was  only  3.75,  and  at  Los  Angeles  only 
5.28.  Yet  elevation  and  distance  from  the  coast  do 
not  always  determine  the  rainfall.  The  yearly  mean 
rainfall  at  Juhan,  in  the  San  Jacinto  range,  at  an  ele- 
vation of  4500  feet,  is  37.74;  observations  at  Riverside, 
1050  feet  above  the  sea,  give  an  average  of  9.37. 

It  is  probably  impossible  to  give  an  Eastern  man 
a  just  idea  of  the  winter  of  Southern  California.  Ac- 
customed to  extremes,  he  may  expect  too  much.  He 
wants  a  violent  change.  If  he  quits  the  snow,  the 
slush,  the  leaden  skies,  the  alternate  sleet  and  cold 
rain  of  New  England,  he  would  hke  the  tropical  heat, 
the  languor,  the  color  of  Martinique.  He  will  not  find 
them  here.  He  comes  instead  into  a  strictly  temper- 
ate region ;  and  even  when  he  arrives,  his  eyes  de- 
ceive him.  He  sees  the  orange  ripening  in  its  dark 
foliage,  the  long  lines  of  the  eucalyptus,  the  feathery 
pepper -tree,  the   magnoha,  the   English   walnut,  the 


THE  WINTER  OF  OUR  CONTENT.  49 

black  live-oak,  the  fan-paliii,  in  all  the  \igov  of  June-, 
everywhere  beds  of  flowers  of  every  hue  and  of  every 
country  blazing  in  the  bright  sunlight — the  hehotrope, 
the  geranium,  the  rare  hot  -  house  roses  overrunning 
the  hedges  of  cj^Dress,  and  the  scarlet  passion -vine 
chmbing  to  the  roof -tree  of  the  cottages ;  in  the  vine- 
yard or  the  orchard  the  horticulturist  is  following  the 
cultivator  in  his  shirt-sleeves ;  he  hears  running  water, 
the  song  of  birds,  the  scent  of  flowers  is  in  the  air,  and 
he  cannot  understand  why  he  needs  mnter  clothing, 
why  he  is  always  seeking  the  sun,  why  he  wants  a  fire 
at  night.  It  is  a  fraud,  he  says,  aU  this  visible  display 
of  summer,  and  of  an  almost  tropical  summer  at  that ; 
it  is  really  a  cold  country.  It  is  incongruous  that  he 
should  be  looking  at  a  date-palm  in  his  overcoat,  and 
he  is  puzzled  that  a  thermometrical  heat  that  should 
enervate  him  elsewhere,  stimulates  him  here.  The 
green,  briUiant,  vigorous  vegetation,  the  perpetual  sun- 
shine, deceive  him ;  he  is  careless  about  the  difference 
of  shade  and  sun,  he  gets  into  a  draught,  and  takes 
cold.  Accustomed  to  extremes  of  temperature  and  ar- 
tificial heat,  I  think  for  most  people  the  first  winter 
here  is  a  disai3pointment.  I  was  told  by  a  physician 
who  had  eighteen  years'  experience  of  the  chmate  that 
in  his  first  winter  he  thought  he  had  never  seen  a 
people  so  insensitive  to  cold  as  the  San  Diegans,  who 
seemed  not  to  require  warmth.  And  all  this  time  the 
trees  are  gromng  like  asparagus,  the  most  dehcate 
flowers  are  in  perpetual  bloom,  the  annual  crops  are 
most  lusty.  I  fancy  that  the  soil  is  always  warm. 
The  temperature  is  truly  moderate.  The  records  for 
a  number  of  years  show  that  the  mid-day  temperature 
of  clear  days  in  winter  is  from  60°  to  70°  on  the  coast, 

4: 


50  OUE   ITALY. 

from  65°  to  80°  in  the  interior,  while  that  of  rainy  days 
is  about  60°  by  the  sea  and  inland.  Mr.  Van  Dyke 
says  that  the  lowest  mid-day  temperature  recorded  at 
the  United  States  signal  station  at  San  Diego  during 
eight  years  is  51°.  This  occurred  but  once.  In  those 
eight  years  there  were  but  twenty-one  days  when  the 
mid-day  temperature  was  not  above  55°,  In  all  that 
time  there  were  but  six  days  when  the  mercury  fell 
below  36°  at  any  time  in  the  night ;  and  but  two  when 
it  fell  to  32°,  the  lowest  point  ever  reached  there.  On 
one  of  these  two  last-named  days  it  went  to  51°  at 
noon,  and  on  the  other  to  56°.  This  was  the  great 
"cold  snap"  of  December,  1879. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  this  sort  of  chmate 
would  suit  any  one  in  ordinary  health,  inviting  and 
stimulating  to  constant  out-of-door  exercise,  and  that 
it  would  be  equally  favorable  to  that  general  break- 
down of  the  system  which  has  the  name  of  nervous 
prostration.  The  effect  upon  diseases  of  the  respira- 
tory organs  can  only  be  determined  by  individual  ex- 
perience. The  government  has  lately  been  sending 
soldiers  who  have  consumption  from  various  stations 
in  the  United  States  to  San  Diego  for  treatment. 
This  experiment  will  furnish  interesting  data.  With- 
in a  period  covering  a  little  over  two  years.  Dr.  Hun- 
tington, the  post  surgeon,  has  had  fifteen  eases  sent 
to  him.  Three  of  these  patients  had  tubercular  con- 
sumption; twelve  had  consumption  induced  by  at- 
tacks of  pneumonia.  One  of  the  tubercular  patients 
died  within  a  month  after  his  arrival ;  the  second  hved 
eight  months ;  the  third  was  discharged  cured,  left  the 
army,  and  contracted  malaria  elsewhere,  of  which  he 
died.     The  remaining  twelve  were  discharged  practi- 


THE  WINTER   OF   OUR   CONTENT.  51 

cally  cured  of  consumption,  but  two  of  them  subse- 
quently died.  It  is  exceedingly  common  to  meet  per- 
sons of  all  ages  and  both  sexes  in  Southern  California 
who  came  invalided  by  disease  of  the  lungs  or  throat, 
who  have  every  promise  of  fair  health  here,  but  who 
dare  not  leave  this  chmate.  The  testimony  is  con- 
vincing of  the  good  effect  of  the  clmiate  upon  all  chil- 
dren, upon  women  generally,  and  of  its  rejuvenating 
effect  uj)on  men  and  women  of  advanced  years. 


CHAPTER  Y. 
HEALTH  AND   LONGEVITY. 

In  regard  to  the  effect  of  climate  upon  health  and 
longevity,  Dr.  Remondino  quotes   old  Hufeland  that 
^'uniformity  in  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  jDarticu- 
larly  in  regard  to   heat,  cold,  gravity,  and  lightness, 
contributes  in  a  very  considerable  degree  to  the  du- 
ration of  life.      Countries,  therefore,  where  great  and 
sudden  varieties  in  the  barometer  and  the  thermome- 
ter are  usual  cannot  be  favorable  to  longevity.     Such 
countries  may  be  healthy,  and  many  men  may  become 
old  in  them,  but  they  will  not  attain  to  a  great  age,  for 
all  rapid  variations  are  so  many  internal  mutations, 
and  these  occasion  an  astonishing  consumption  both 
of  the  forces  and  the  organs."    Hufeland  thought  a 
marine  climate  most  favorable  to  longevity.     He  de- 
scribes, and  perhaps  we  may  say  prophesied,  a  region 
he  had  never  known,  where  the  conditions  and  combi- 
nations were  most  favorable  to  old  age,  which  is  epito- 
mized by  Dr.  Remondino:  "where  the  latitude  gives 
warmth  and  the  sea  or  ocean  tempering  winds,  where 
the  soil  is  warm  and  dry  and  the  sun  is  also  bright 
and  warm,  where  uninterrupted  bright  clear  weather 
and  a  moderate  temperature  are  the  rule,  where  ex- 
tremes neither  of  heat  nor  cold  are  to  be  found,  where 
nothing  may  interfere  with  the  exercise  of  the  aged, 
and  where  the  actual  results  and  cases  of  longevity 


ir,;ipaigt;i!gimi;affii 


\mii^ff>amw»mm 


1^^,  r-^ 


:^>s^ 


HEALTH  AND   LONGEVITY.  55 

will  bear  testimony  as  to  the  efficacy  of  all  its  climatic 
conditions  being  favorable  to  a  long  and  comfortable 
existence." 

In  an  unpublished  paper  Dr.  Remondino  comments 
on  the  extraordinary  endurance  of  animals  and  men  in 
the  California  climate,  and  cites  many  cases  of  uncom- 
mon longevity  in  natives.  In  reading  the  accounts  of 
early  days  in  California  I  am  struck  mth  the  endur- 
ance of  hardship,  exposure,  and  wounds  by  the  natives 
and  the  adventurers,  the  rancheros,  horsemen,  herds- 
men, the  descendants  of  soldiers  and  the  Indians,  their 
insensibility  to  fatigue,  and  their  agility  and  strength. 
This  is  ascribed  to  the  climate;  and  what  is  true  of 
man  is  true  of  the  native  horse.  His  only  rival  in 
strength,  endurance,  speed,  and  intelligence  is  the  Ara- 
bian. It  was  long  supposed  that  this  was  racial,  and 
that  but  for  the  smallness  of  the  size  of  the  native 
horse,  crossing  with  it  would  improve  the  breed  of  the 
Eastern  and  Kentucky  racers.  But  there  was  reluc- 
tance to  cross  the  finely  proportioned  Eastern  horse 
with  his  diminutive  Western  brother.  The  importa- 
tion and  breeding  of  thoroughbreds  on  this  coast  has 
led  to  the  discovery  that  the  desirable  qualities  of  the 
California  horse  were  not  racial  but  climatic.  The 
Eastern  horse  has  been  found  to  improve  in  size,  com- 
pactness of  muscle,  in  strength  of  limb,  in  wind,  with 
a  marked  increase  in  power  of  endurance.  The  trav- 
eller here  notices  the  fine  horses  and  their  excellent 
condition,  and  the  power  and  endurance  of  those  that 
have  considerable  age.  The  records  made  on  Eastern 
race-courses  by  horses  from  California  breeding  farms 
have  already  attracted  attention.  It  is  also  remarked 
that  the  Eastern  horse  is  usually  improved  greatly  by 


56  OUE   ITALY. 

a  sojourn  of  a  season  or  two  on  this  coast,  and  tlie 
plan  of  bringing  Eastern  race-horses  here  for  the  win- 
ter is  already  adopted. 

Man,  it  is  asserted  by  our  authority,  is  as  much 
benefited  as  the  horse  by  a  change  to  this  climate. 
The  new-comer  may  have  certain  unpleasant  sensa- 
tions in  coming  here  from  different  altitudes  and  con- 
ditions, but  he  will  soon  be  conscious  of  better  being, 
of  increased  power  in  all  the  functions  of  life,  more 
natural  and  recuperative  sleep,  and  an  accession  of 
vitahty  and  endurance.  Dr.  Remondino  also  testifies 
that  it  occasionally  happens  in  this  rejuvenation  that 
families  which  have  seemed  to  have  reached  their 
limit  at  the  East  are  increased  after  residence  here. 

The  early  inhabitants  of  Southern  California,  ac- 
cording to  the  statement  of  Mr.  H.  H.  Bancroft  and 
other  reports,  were  found  to  be  living  in  Spartan  con- 
ditions as  to  temperance  and  training,  and  in  a  highly 
moral  condition,  in  consequence  of  which  they  had  un- 
common physical  endurance  and  contempt  for  luxury. 
This  training  in  abstinence  and  hardship,  with  temper- 
ance in  diet,  combined  with  the  climate  to  produce  the 
astonishing  longevity  to  be  found  here.  Contrary  to 
the  customs  of  most  other  tribes  of  Indians,  their  aged 
were  the  care  of  the  community.  Dr.  W.  A.  Winder, 
of  San  Diego,  is  quoted  as  saying  that  in  a  visit  to  El 
Cajon  Valley  some  thirty  years  ago  he  was  taken  to 
a  house  in  which  the  aged  persons  were  cared  for. 
There  were  half  a  dozen  who  had  reached  an  extreme 
age.  Some  were  unable  to  move,  their  bony  frame  be- 
ing seemingly  anchylosed.  They  were  old,  wrinkled, 
and  blear-eyed;  their  skin  was  hanging  in  leathery 
folds  about  their  withered  limbs;   some  had  hair  as 


HEALTH   AND   LONGEVITY.  59 

white  as  snow,  and  had  seen  some  seven -score  of 
years;  others,  still  able  to  crawl,  but  so  aged  as  to  be 
unable  to  stand,  went  slowly  about  on  their  hands  and 
knees,  their  limbs  being  attenuated  and  withered.  The 
organs  of  special  sense  had  in  many  nearly  lost  all  ac- 
tivity some  generations  back.  Some  had  lost  the  use 
of  their  limbs  for  more  than  a  decade  or  a  generation; 
but  the  organs  of  life  and  the  "great  symi3athetic" 
still  kept  u]3  their  automatic  functions,  not  recognizing 
the  fact,  and  surprisingly  indifferent  to  it,  that  the  rest 
of  the  body  had  ceased  to  be  of  any  use  a  generation 
or  more  in  the  past.  And  it  is  remarked  that  "these 
thoracic  and  abdominal  organs  and  their  physiological 
action  being  kept  alive  and  active,  as  it  were,  against 
time,  and  the  silent  and  unconscious  functional  activ- 
ity of  the  great  sympathetic  and  its  ganglia,  show  a 
tenacity  of  the  animal  tissues  to  hold  on  to  life  that  is 
phenomenal." 

I  have  no  space  to  enter  upon  the  nature  of  the 
testimony  upon  which  the  age  of  certain  Indians  here- 
after referred  to  is  based.  It  is  such  as  to  satisfy  Dr. 
Eemondino,  Dr.  Edward  Palmer,  long  connected  with 
the  Agricultural  Department  of  the  Smithsonian  In- 
stitution, and  Father  A.  D.  Ubach,  who  has  religious 
charge  of  the  Indians  in  this  region.  These  Indians 
were  not  migratory;  they  hved  within  certain  limits, 
and  were  known  to  each  other.  The  missions  estab- 
lished by  the  Franciscan  friars  were  built  with  the  as- 
sistance of  the  Indians.  The  friars  have  handed  down 
by  word  of  mouth  many  details  in  regard  to  their  early 
missions;  others  are  found  in  the  mission  records, 
such  as  carefully  kept  records  of  family  events — births, 
marriages,  and  deaths.     And  there  is  the  testimony  of 


60  OUE   ITAI.Y. 

the  Indians  regarding  each  other.  Father  Uhach  has 
known  a  number  who  were  employed  at  the  building 
of  the  mission  of  San  Diego  (1769-71),  a  century  be- 
fore he  took  charge  of  this  mission.  These  men  had 
been  engaged  in  carrying  timber  from  the  mountains 
or  in  making  brick,  and  many  of  them  were  living 
vdthm  the  last  twenty  years.  There  are  persons  still 
living  at  the  Indian  village  of  Capitan  Grande  whose 
ages  he  estimates  at  over  one  hundred  and  thirty 
years.  Since  the  advent  of  civihzation  the  abstemious 
habits  and  Spartan  virtues  of  these  Indians  have  been 
impaired,  and  their  care  for  the  aged  has  relaxed. 

Dr.  Palmer  has  a  photograph  (which  I  have  seen) 
of  a  squaw  whom  he  estimates  to  be  126  years  old. 
When  he  visited  her  he  saw  her  put  six  watermelons 
in  a  blanket,  tie  it  up,  and  carry  it  on  her  back  for  two 
miles.  He  is  famihar  with  Indian  customs  and  his- 
tory, and  a  careful  cross-examination  convinced  liim 
that  her  information  of  old  customs  was  not  obtained 
by  tradition.  She  was  conversant  with  tribal  habits 
she  had  seen  practised,  such  as  the  cremation  of  the 
dead,  which  the  mission  fathers  had  compelled  the 
Indians  to  relinquish.  She  had  seen  the  Indians  pun- 
ished by  the  fathers  with  floggings  for  persisting  in 
the  practice  of  cremation. 

At  the  mission  of  San  Tomas,  in  Lower  California, 
is  still  living  an  Indian  (a  photograph  of  whom  Dr. 
Kemondino  shows),  bent  and  wrinkled,  whose  age  is 
computed  at  110  years.  Although  blind  and  naked,  he 
is  still  active,  and  daily  goes  down  the  beach  and  along 
the  beds  of  the  creeks  in  search  of  drift-wood,  making 
it  his  daily  task  to  gather  and  carry  to  camp  a  fagot  of 
wood. 


HEALTH   AND   LONGEVITY. 


61 


Anotlier  instance  I  give  in  Dr.  Remondino's  words  : 
"  Philip  Crosstliwaite,  who  has  hved  here  since  1843, 
has  an  old  man  on  his  ranch  who  mounts  his  horse 
and  rides  about  daily,  who  was  a  grown  man  breaking 
horses  for  the  mission  fathers  when  Don  Antonio  Ser- 


OLD  ADOBE  HOUSE,   POMONA. 


rano  was  an  infant.  Don  Antonio  I  know  quite  well, 
having  attended  him  through  a  serious  illness  some 
sixteen  years  ago.  Although  now  at  the  advanced  age 
of  ninety-three,  he  is  as  erect  as  a  pine,  and  he  rides 


62  OUE   ITALY. 

his  horse  with  his  usual  vigor  and  grace.  He  is  thin 
and  spare  and  very  tall,  and  those  who  knew  him  fifty 
years  or  more  remember  him  as  the  most  skilful 
horseman  in  the  neighborhood  of  San  Diego.  And 
yet,  as  fabulous  as  it  may  seem,  the  man  who  danced 
this  Don  Antonio  on  his  knee  when  he  was  an  infant 
is  not  only  still  ahve,  but  is  active  enough  to  mount 
his  horse  and  canter  about  the  country.  Some  years 
ago  I  attended  an  elderly  gentleman,  since  dead,  who 
knew  this  man  as  a  full-grown  man  when  he  and  Don 
Serrano  were  play-children  together.  From  a  conver- 
sation with  Father  Ubach  I  learned  that  the  man's 
age  is  perfectly  authenticated  to  be  beyond  one  hun- 
dred and  eighteen  years." 

In  the  many  instances  given  of  extreme  old  age  in 
this  region  the  habits  of  these  Indians  have  been  those 
of  strict  temperance  and  abstemiousness,  and  their 
long  life  in  an  equable  climate  is  due  to  extreme  sim- 
phcity  of  diet.  In  many  cases  of  extreme  age  the  diet 
has  consisted  simply  of  acorns,  flour,  and  water.  It  is 
asserted  that  the  climate  itseK  induces  temperance  in 
drink  and  abstemiousness  in  diet.  In  his  estimate  of 
the  climate  as  a  factor  of  longevity,  Dr.  Remondino 
says  that  it  is  only  necessary  to  look  at  the  causes  of 
death,  and  the  ages  most  subject  to  attack,  to  under- 
stand that  the  less  of  these  causes  that  are  present  the 
greater  are  the  chances  of  man  to  reach  great  age. 
"Add  to  these  reflections  that  you  run  no  gantlet 
of  diseases  to  undermine  or  deteriorate  the  organism ; 
that  in  this  climate  cliildhood  finds  an  escape  from 
those  diseases  which  are  the  terror  of  mothers,  and 
against  which  physicians  are  helpless,  as  we  have  here 
none  of  those  affections  of  the  first  three  years  of  life 


HEALTH  AND  LONGEVITY. 


63 


FAN-PALM,  FERNANDO  ST.   LOS  ANGELES. 


SO  prevalent  during  the  summer  months  in  the  East 
and  the  rest  of  the  United  States.  Then,  again,  the 
chance  of  gastric  or  intestinal  disease  is  almost  incred- 
ibly small.  This  immunity  extends  through  every  age 
of  life.  Hepatic  and  kindred  diseases  are  imknown; 
of  lung  affections  there  is  no  land  that  can  boast  of 
Hke  exemption.     Be  it  the  equability  of  the  tempera- 


64  OUR  ITALY. 

ture  or  the  aseptic  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  the 
tree  sweep  of  winds  or  the  absence  of  disease  germs, 
or  what  else  it  may  be  ascribed  to,  one  thing  is  cer- 
tain, that  there  is  no  pneumonia,  bronchitis,  or  pleu- 
risy lying  in  wait  for  either  the  infant  or  the  aged." 

The  importance  of  this  subject  must  excuse  the 
space  I  have  given  to  it.  It  is  evident  from  this  tes- 
timony that  here  are  climatic  conditions  novel  and 
worthy  of  the  most  patient  scientific  mvestigation. 
Their  effect  upon  hereditary  tendencies  and  upon  per- 
sons coming  here  with  hereditary  diseases  will  be 
studied.  Three  years  ago  there  was  in  some  locahties 
a  visitation  of  small-pox  imported  from  Mexico.  At 
that  time  there  were  cases  of  pneumonia.  Whether 
these  were  incident  to  carelessness  in  vaccination,  or 
were  caused  by  local  unsanitary  conditions,  I  do  not 
know.  It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  unsanitary  con- 
ditions will  not  produce  disease  here  as  elsewhere.  It 
cannot  be  too  strongly  insisted  that  this  is  a  climate 
that  the  new-comer  must  get  used  to,  and  that  he 
cannot  safely  neglect  the  ordinary  precautions.  The 
difference  between  shade  and  sun  is  strikingly  marked, 
and  he  must  not  be  deceived  into  imprudence  by  the 
prevaihng  sunshine  or  the  general  equabihty. 


CHAPTER  YI. 
IS  KESIDENCE   HEKE  AGKEEABLE  ? 

Aeter  all  these  averages  and  statistics,  and  not 
considering  now  the  chances  of  the  speculator,  the 
farmer,  the  fruit  -  raiser,  or  the  invalid,  is  Southern 
California  a  particularly  agreeable  winter  residence? 
The  question  deserves  a  candid  answer,  for  it  is  of 
the  last  importance  to  the  people  of  the  United 
States  to  know  the  truth  —  to  know  whether  they 
have  accessible  by  rail  a  region  free  from  winter  rigor 
and  vicissitudes,  and  yet  with  few  of  the  disadvan- 
tages of  most  winter  resorts.  One  would  have  more 
IDleasure  in  answering  the  question  if  he  were  not  ir- 
ritated by  the  perpetual  note  of  brag  and  exaggera- 
tion in  evQiy  locahty  that  each  is  the  paradise  of  the 
earth,  and  absolutely  free  from  any  physical  discom- 
fort. I  hope  that  this  note  of  exaggeration  is  not 
the  effect  of  the  chmate,  for  if  it  is,  the  region  will 
never  be  socially  agreeable. 

There  are  no  sudden  changes  of  season  here. 
Spring  comes  gradually  day  by  day,  a  perceptible 
hourly  waking  to  hf e  and  color ;  and  this  glides  into 
a  summer  which  never  ceases,  but  only  becomes  tu'ed 
and  fades  into  the  repose  of  a  short  autumn,  when 
the  sere  and  brown  and  red  and  yellow  hills  and  the 
purple  mountains  are  waiting  for  the  rain  clouds. 
This   is    according    to    the   process    of    nature ;   but 

5 


66  OUR  ITALY. 

wherever  irrigation  brings  moisture  to  the  fertile  soil, 
the  green  and  bloom  are  perpetual  the  year  round, 
only  the  green  is  powdered  with  dust,  and  the  culti- 
vated flowers  have  their  periods  of  exhaustion. 

I  should  think  it  well  worth  while  to  watch  the 
procession  of  nature  here  from  late  November  or 
December  to  April.  It  is  a  land  of  delicate  and  brill- 
iant wild  flowers,  of  blooming  shrubs,  strange  in  form 
and  wonderful  in  color.  Before  the  annual  rains  the 
land  hes  in  a  sort  of  swoon  in  a  golden  haze;  the 
slopes  and  plains  are  bare,  the  hills  yellow  with  ripe 
wild -oats  or  ashy  gray  with  sage,  the  sea-breeze  is 
weak,  the  air  grows  drier,  the  sun  hot,  the  shade 
cool.  Then  one  day  hght  clouds  stream  up  from  the 
south-west,  and  there  is  a  gentle  rain.  When  the  sun 
comes  out  again  its  rays  are  milder,  the  land  is  re- 
freshed and  brightened,  and  almost  immediately  a 
greenish  tinge  appears  on  plain  and  hill- side.  At 
intervals  the  rain  continues,  daily  the  landscape  is 
greener  in  infinite  variety  of  shades,  which  seem  to 
sweep  over  the  hills  in  waves  of  color.  Upon  this 
carpet  of  green  by  February  nature  begins  to  weave 
an  embroidery  of  wild  flowers,  white,  lavender,, 
golden,  pink,  indigo,  scarlet,  changing  day  by  day 
and  every  day  more  brilliant,  and  spreading  from 
patches  into  great  fields  until  dale  and  hill  and  table- 
land are  overspread  with  a  refinement  and  glory  of 
color  that  would  be  the  despair  of  the  carpet-weavers 
of  Daghestan. 

This,  with  the  scent  of  orange  groves  and  tea- 
roses,  with  cool  nights,  snow  in  sight  on  the  high 
mountains,  an  occasional  day  of  rain,  days  of  bright 
sunshine,  when   an   overcoat   is    needed   in   driving^, 


IS  RESIDENCE  HERE  AGREEABLE?  67 

must  suffice  the  sojourner  for  winter.  He  will  be 
humiliated  that  he  is  more  sensitive  to  cold  than  the 
heliotrope  or  the  violet,  but  he  must  bear  it.  If  he 
is  looking  for  malaria,  he  must  go  to  some  other 
winter  resort.  If  he  wants  a  "norther"  continuing 
for  days,  he  must  move  on.  If  he  is  accustomed  to 
various  insect  pests,  he  will  miss  them  here.  If  there 
comes  a  day  warmer  than  usual,  it  will  not  be  damp 
or  soggy.  So  far  as  nature  is  concerned  there  is  very 
httle  to  grumble  at,  and  one  resource  of  the  traveller 
is  therefore  taken  away. 

But  is  it  interesting?  What  is  there  to  do?  It 
must  be  confessed  that  there  is  a  sort  of  monotony 
in  the  scenery  as  there  is  in  the  climate.  There  is, 
to  be  sure,  great  variety  in  a  way  between  coast  and 
mountain,  as,  for  instance,  between  Santa  Barbara 
and  Pasadena,  and  if  the  tourist  will  make  a  business 
of  exploring  the  valleys  and  uplands  and  canons  httle 
visited,  he  will  not  complain  of  monotony;  but  the 
artist  and  the  photographer  find  the  same  elements 
repeated  in  little  varying  combinations.  There  is  un- 
deniable repetition  in  the  succession  of  flower-gar- 
dens, fruit  orchards,  alleys  of  palms  and  peppers, 
vineyards,  and  the  cultivation  about  the  villas  is  re- 
peated in  all  directions.  The  Americans  have  not 
the  art  of  making  houses  or  a  land  picturesque.  The 
traveller  is  enthusiastic  about  the  exquisite  drives 
through  these  groves  of  fruit,  with  the  ashy  or  the 
snow -covered  hills  for  background  and  contrast,  and 
he  exclaims  at  the  pretty  cottages,  vine  and  rose  clad, 
in  their  semi-tropical  setting,  but  if  by  chance  he 
comes  upon  an  old  adobe  or  a  Mexican  ranch  house 
in  the  country,  he  has  emotions  of  a  different  sort. 


68 


OUE  ITALY. 


There  is  little  left  of  the  old  Spanish  occupation,  but 
the  remains  of  it  make  the  romance  of  the  country, 
and  appeal  to  our  sense  of  fitness  and  beauty.  It  is 
to  be  hoped  that  all  such  historical  associations  will 
be  preserved,  for  they  give  to  the  traveller  that  which 


SCARLET   PASSION-VINE. 


our  country  generally  lacks,  and  which  is  so  largely 
the  attraction  of  Italy  and  Spain.  Instead  of  adapt- 
ing and  modifying  the  houses  and  homes  that  the 
climate  suggests,  the  new  American  comers  have 
brought  here  from  the  East  the  smartness  and  pretti- 


IS  EESIDENCE   HERE  AGREEABLE?  69 

ness  of  our  modern  nondescript  architectiu'e.  The 
low  house,  with  recesses  and  galleries,  built  round  an 
inner  court,  or  patio,  which,  however  smaU,  would  fill 
the  whole  interior  with  sunshine  and  the  scent  of 
flowers,  is  the  sort  of  dwelhng  that  would  suit  the 
climate  and  the  habit  of  life  here.  But  the  present 
occupiers  have  taken  no  hints  from  the  natives.  In 
village  and  country  they  have  done  all  they  can,  in 
spite  of  the  maguey  and  the  cactus  and  the  palm 
and  the  umbrella-tree  and  the  live-oak  and  the  riot- 
ous flowers  and  the  thousand  novel  forms  of  vege- 
tation, to  give  everything  a  prosaic  look.  But  why 
should  the  tourist  find  fault  with  this?  The  Ameri- 
can likes  it,  and  he  would  not  like  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  the  Spanish  or  the  Latin  races. 

So  far  as  chmate  and  natural  beauty  go  to  make 
one  contented  in  a  winter  resort.  Southern  California 
has  unsurpassed  attractions,  and  both  seem  to  me  to 
fit  very  well  the  American  temperament ;  but  the  asso- 
ciations of  art  and  history  are  wanting,  and  the  tourist 
knows  how  largely  his  enjoyment  of  a  vacation  in 
Southern  Italy  or  Sicily  or  Northern  Africa  depends 
upon  these — upon  these  and  upon  the  aspects  of  hu- 
man nature  foreign  to  liis  experience. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  this  is  not  Europe, 
either  in  its  human  interest  or  in  a  certain  refinement 
of  landscape  that  comes  only  by  long  cultivation  and 
the  occupancy  of  ages.  One  advantage  of  foreign 
travel  to  the  restless  American  is  that  he  carries  with 
him  no  responsibility  for  the  government  or  the  prog- 
ress of  the  ■  country  he  is  in,  and  that  he  leaves  busi- 
ness behind  him ;  whereas  in  this  new  country,  which 
is  his  own,  the  development  of  which  is  so  interesting. 


70  OUE  ITALY. 

and  in  which,  the  opportunities  of  fortune  seem  so  in- 
viting, he  is  constantly  tempted  "  to  take  a  hand  in." 
If,  however,  he  is  superior  to  this  fever,  and  is  willing 
simply  to  rest,  to  drift  along  with  the  equable  days,  I 
know  of  no  other  place  where  he  can  be  more  truly 
contented.  Year  by  year  the  country  becomes  more 
agreeable  for  the  traveller,  in  the  first  place,  through 
the  improvement  in  the  hotels,  and  in  the  second,  by 
better  roads.  In  the  large  villages  and  cities  there  are 
miles  of  excellent  drives,  well  sprinkled,  through  de- 
hghtful  avenues,  in  a  park-like  country,  where  the  eye 
is  enchanted  with  color  and  luxurious  vegetation,  and 
captivated  by  the  remarkable  beauty  of  the  hills,  the 
wildness  and  picturesqueness  of  which  enhance  the 
charming  cultivation  of  the  orchards  and  gardens. 
And  no  country  is  more  agreeable  for  riding  and  driv- 
ing, for  even  at  mid-day,  in  the  direct  sun  rays,  there 
is  almost  everywhere  a  refreshing  breeze,  and  one  rides 
or  drives  or  walks  with  little  sense  of  fatigue.  The 
horses  are  uniformly  excellent,  either  in  the  carriage  or 
under  the  saddle.  I  am  sure  they  are  remarkable 
in  speed,  endurance,  and  ease  of  motion.  If  the  vis- 
iting season  had  no  other  attraction,  the  horses  would 
make  it  distinguished. 

A  great  many  people  like  to  spend  months  in  a 
comfortable  hotel,  lounging  on  the  piazzas,  playing 
lawn-tennis,  taking  a  morning  ride  or  afternoon  drive, 
making  an  occasional  picnic  excursion  up  some  mount- 
ain canon,  getting  up  charades,  playing  at  private  the- 
atricals, dancing,  flirting,  floating  along  with  more  or 
less  sentiment  and  only  the  weariness  that  comes 
when  there  are  no  duties.  There  are  plenty  of  places 
where  all  these  things  can  be  done,  and  with  no  sort 


IS  RESIDENCE   HERE  AGREEABLE?  71 

of  anxiety  about  the  weather  from  week  to  week,  and 
with  the  added  advantage  that  the  women  and  chil- 
dren can  take  care  of  themselves.  But  for  those  who 
find  such  a  hfe  monotonous  there  are  other  resources. 
There  is  very  good  fishing  in  the  clear  streams  in  the 
foot-hills,  hunting  in  the  mountains  for  large  game 
still  worthy  of  the  steadiest  nerves,  and  good  bird- 
shooting  everywhere.  There  are  mountains  to  climb, 
canons  to  explore,  lovely  valleys  in  the  recesses  of  the 
hills  to  be  discovered — in  short,  one  disposed  to  activ- 
ity and  not  afraid  of  roughing  it  could  occupy  himself 
most  agreeably  and  healthfully  in  the  wild  parts  of 
San  Bernardino  and  San  Diego  counties ;  he  may  even 
still  start  a  grizzly  in  the  Sierra  Madre  range  in  Los 
Angeles  County.  Hunting  and  exploring  in  the  mount- 
ains, riding  over  the  mesas,  which  are  green  from  the 
winter  rains  and  gay  with  a  thousand  dehcate  grasses 
and  flowering  plants,  is  manly  occupation  to  suit  the 
most  robust  and  adventurous.  Those  who  saunter  in 
the  trim  gardens,  or  fly  from  one  hotel  parlor  to  the 
other,  do  not  see  the  best  of  Southern  Cahfornia  in 
the  winter. 


CHAPTER  YII. 
THE  WINTEK   ON  THE   COAST. 

But  the  distinction  of  this  coast,  and  that  which 
will  forever  make  it  attractive  at  the  season  when  the 
North  Atlantic  is  forbidding,  is  that  the  ocean-side  is 
as  equable,  as  dehghtful,  in  winter  as  in  summer.  Its 
sea -side  places  are  truly  all -the -year -round  resorts. 
In  subsequent  chapters  I  shall  speak  in  detail  of  dif- 
ferent places  as  to  chmate  and  development  and  pe- 
culiarities of  production.  I  will  now  only  give  a  gen- 
eral idea  of  Southern  Cahfornia  as  a  wintering  place. 
Even  as  far  north  as  Monterey,  in  the  central  part  of 
the  State,  the  famous  Hotel  del  Monte,  with  its  mag- 
nificent park  of  pines  and  hve-oaks,  and  exquisite 
flower-gardens  underneath  the  trees,  is  remarkable  for 
its  steadiness  of  temperature.  I  could  see  httle  differ- 
ence between  the  temperature  of  June  and  of  Febru- 
ary. The  difference  is  of  course  greatest  at  night. 
The  maximum  the  year  through  ranges  from  about 
65°  to  about  80°,  and  the  minimum  from  about  35°  to 
about  58°,  though  there  are  days  when  the  thermom- 
eter goes  above  90°,  and  nights  when  it  falls  below 
30°. 

To  those  who  prefer  the  immediate  ocean  air  to 
that  air  as  modified  by  such  valleys  as  the  San  Gra- 
briel  and  the  Santa  Ana,  the  coast  offers  a  variety  of 
choice  in  different  combinations  of  sea  and  mountain 


KO-SK-KUSH,    SA^'TA   BARBARA. 


THE  TVTINTER   ON  THE   COAST.  75 

climate  all  along  the  southern  sunny  exposure  from 
Santa  Barbarba  to  San  Diego.  In  Santa  Barbara 
County  the  Santa  Inez  range  of  mountains  runs  west- 
ward to  meet  the  Pacific  at  Point  ConceiDtion.  South 
of  this  noble  range  are  a  number  of  little  valleys  oi)en- 
ing  to  the  sea,  and  in  one  of  these,  with  a  harbor  and 
sloping  upland  and  canon  of  its  own,  lies  Santa  Bar- 
bara, looking  southward  towards  the  sunny  islands  of 
Santa  Rosa  and  Santa  Cruz.  Above  it  is  the  Mission 
Canon,  at  the  entrance  of  which  is  the  best-preserved 
of  the  old  Franciscan  missions.  There  is  a  superb 
drive  eastward  along  the  long  and  curving  sea-beach 
of  foiu'  miles  to  the  canon  of  Monticito,  which  is 
rather  a  series  of  nooks  and  terraces,  of  lovely  places 
and  gardens,  of  plantations  of  oranges  and  figs,  rising 
up  to  the  base  of  the  gray  mountains.  The  long  line 
of  the  Santa  Inez  suggests  the  promontory  of  Sor- 
rento, and  a  \dew  from  the  opposite  rocky  point, 
which  encloses  the  harbor  on  the  west,  by  the  help  of 
cypresses  which  look  like  stone-pines,  recalls  many  an 
Itahan  coast  scene,  and  in  situation  the  Bay  of  Naples. 
The  whole  aspect  is  foreign,  enchanting,  and  the  semi- 
tropical  fi'uits  and  vines  and  flowers,  with  a  golden 
atmosphere  poured  over  all,  irresistibly  take  the  mind 
to  scenes  of  Itahan  romance.  There  is  still  a  little 
Spanish  flavor  left  in  the  to\\ai,  in  a  few  old  houses, 
in  names  and  families  historic,  and  in  the  life  without 
hurry  or  apprehension.  There  is  a  delightful  com- 
mingling here  of  sea  and  mountain  air,  and  in  a  hun- 
dred fertile  nooks  in  the  hills  one  in  the  most  deli- 
cate health  may  be  sheltered  from  every  harsh  wind. 
I  think  no  one  ever  leaves  Santa  Barbara  without  a 
desire  to  return  to  it. 


76  OUK  ITALY. 

Farther  down  the  coast,  only  eighteen  miles  from 
Los  Angeles,  and  a  sort  of  Coney  Island  resort  of  that 
thriving  city,  is  Santa  Monica.  Its  hotel  stands  on  a 
high  bluff  in  a  lovely  bend  of  the  coast.  It  is  popular 
in  summer  as  well  as  winter,  as  the  number  of  cot- 
tages attest,  and  it  was  chosen  by  the  directors  of  the 
National  Soldiers'  Home  as  the  site  of  the  Home  on 
the  Pacific  coast.  There  the  veterans,  in  a  commo- 
dious building,  dream  away  their  lives  most  content- 
edly, and  can  fancy  that  they  hear  the  distant  thunder 
of  guns  in  the  pounding  of  the  surf. 

At  about  the  same  distance  from  Los  Angeles, 
southward,  above  Point  Vincent,  is  Redondo  Beach,  a 
new  resort,  which,  from  its  natural  beauty  and  exten- 
sive improvements,  promises  to  be  a  delightful  place 
of  sojourn  at  any  time  of  the  year.  The  mountain- 
ous, embracing  arms  of  the  bay  are  exquisite  in  con- 
tour and  color,  and  the  beach  is  very  fine.  The  hotel 
is  perfectly  comfortable — indeed,  imcommonly  attrac- 
tive— and  the  extensive  planting  of  trees,  palms,  and 
shrubs,  and  the  cultivation  of  flowers,  will  change  the 
place  in  a  year  or  two  into  a  scene  of  green  and  floral 
loveliness ;  in  this  region  two  years,  such  is  the  rapid 
growth,  suffices  to  transform  a  desert  into  a  park  or 
garden.  On  the  hills,  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
beach  and  pier,  are  the  buildings  of  the  Chautauqua, 
which  holds  a  local  summer  session  here.  The  Chau- 
tauqua people,  the  country  over,  seem  to  have,  in  se- 
lecting sightly  and  agreeable  sites  for  their  temples 
of  education  and  amusement,  as  good  judgment  as 
the  old  monks  had  in  planting  their  monasteries  and 
missions. 

If  one  desires  a  thoroughly  insular  chmate,  he  may 


THE  WINTER  ON  THE  COAST.  79 

cross  to  the  picturesque  island  of  Santa  Catalina.  All 
along  the  coast  flowers  bloom  in  the  winter  months, 
and  the  ornamental  semi-tropical  plants  thrive;  and 
there  are  many  striking  headlands  and  pretty  bays 
and  gentle  seaward  slopes  which  are  already  occupied 
by  villages,  and  attract  visitors  who  would  practise 
economy.  The  hills  frequently  come  close  to  the 
shore,  forming  those  valleys  in  which  the  Californians 
of  the  pastoral  period  placed  their  ranch  houses.  At 
San  Juan  Capristrano  the  fathers  had  one  of  their 
most  flourishing  missions,  the  ruins  of  which  are  the 
most  pictm^esque  the  traveller  will  find.  It  is  alto- 
gether a  genial,  attractive  coast,  and  if  the  tourist 
does  not  prefer  an  inland  situation,  like  the  Hotel 
Raymond  (which  scarcely  has  a  rival  anywhere  in  its 
lovely  surroundings),  he  will  keep  on  down  the  coast 
to  San  Diego. 

The  transition  from  the  well -planted  counties  of 
Los  Angeles  and  Orange  is  not  altogether  agreeable 
to  the  eye.  One  misses  the  trees.  The  general  aspect 
of  the  coast  about  San  Diego  is  bare  in  comparison. 
This  simply  means  that  the  southern  county  is  behind 
the  others  in  development.  Nestled  among  the  hills 
there  are  hve-oaks  and  sycamores;  and  of  course  at 
National  City  and  below,  in  El  Cajon  and  the  valley 
of  the  Sweetwater,  there  are  extensive  plantations  of 
oranges,  lemons,  ohves,  and  vines,  but  the  San  Diego 
region  generally  hes  in  the  sun  shadeless.  I  have  a 
personal  theory  that  much  vegetation  is  inconsistent 
with  the  best  atmosphere  for  the  human  being.  The 
air  is  nowhere  else  so  agreeable  to  me  as  it  is  in  a 
barren  New  Mexican  or  Arizona  desert  at  the  proper 
elevation.     I  do  not  know  whether  the  San  Diego  ch- 


80  OUK  ITALY. 

mate  would  be  injured  if  the  Mils  were  covered  with 
forest  and  the  valleys  were  all  in  the  highest  and 
most  luxmiant  vegetation.  The  theory  is  that  the 
interaction  of  the  desert  and  ocean  winds  will  al- 
ways keep  it  as  it  is,  whatever  man  may  do.  I  can 
only  say  that,  as  it  is,  I  doubt  if  it  has  its  equal  the 
year  round  for  agreeableness  and  healthfulness  in  our 
Union;  and  it  is  the  testimony  of  those  whose  ex- 
perience of  the  best  Mediterranean  climate  is  more 
extended  and  much  longer  continued  than  mine,  that 
it  is  superior  to  any  on  that  enclosed  sea.  About  this 
great  harbor,  whose  outer  beach  has  an  extent  of 
twenty -five  miles,  whose  inland  circuit  of  mountains 
must  be  over  fifty  miles,  there  are  great  varieties  of 
temperatm'e,  of  shelter  and  exposure,  minute  subdi- 
visions of  climate,  whose  personal  fitness  can  only  be 
attested  by  experience.  There  is  a  great  difference, 
for  instance,  between  the  quality  of  the  chmate  at  the 
elevation  of  the  Florence  Hotel,  San  Diego,  and  the 
University  Heights  on  the  mesa  above  the  town,  and 
that  on  the  long  Coronado  Beach  which  protects  the 
inner  harbor  from  the  ocean  surf.  The  latter,  practi- 
cally surrounded  by  water,  has  a  true  marine  climate, 
but  a  peculiar  and  dry  marine  chmate,  as  tonic  in  its 
effect  as  that  of  Capri,  and,  I  believe,  mth  fewer  harsh 
days  in  the  winter  season.  I  wish  to  speak  with  en- 
tire frankness  about  this  situation,  for  I  am  sure  that 
what  so  much  ]3leases  me  will  suit  a  great  number 
of  people,  who  will  thank  me  for  not  being  reserved. 
Doubtless  it  will  not  suit  hundreds  of  jDeople  as  well 
as  some  other  locahties  in  Southern  California,  but  I 
found  no  other  place  where  I  had  the  feehng  of  abso- 
lute content  and  willingness  to  stay  on  indefinitely. 


THE  WINTER   ON  THE   COAST.  81 

There  is  a  geniality  about  it  for  which  the  thermom- 
eter does  not  account,  a  charm  w^hich  it  is  difficult  to 
explain.  Much  of  the  agreeability  is  due  to  artificial 
conditions,  but  the  climate  man  has  not  made  nor 
marred. 

The  Coronado  Beach  is  about  twelve  miles  long. 
A  narrow  sand  promontory,  running  northward  fi'om 
the  main-land,  rises  to  the  Heights,  then  broadens  into 
a  table-land,  which  seems  to  be  an  island,  and  meas- 
ures about  a  mile  and  a  half  each  way;  this  is  called 
South  Beach,  and  is  connected  by  another  spit  of  sand 
with  a  like  area  called  North  Beach,  which  forms,  with 
Point  Loma,  the  entrance  to  the  harbor.  The  North 
Beach,  covered  partly  with  chaparral  and  broad  fields 
of  barley,  is  ahve  with  quail,  and  is  a  favonte  cours- 
ing-ground for  rabbits.  The  soil,  which  appears  un- 
inviting, is  with  water  uncommonly  fertile,  being  a 
mixture  of  loam,  disintegrated  granite,  and  decomposed 
shells,  and  especially  adapted  to  flowers,  rare  tropical 
trees,  fruits,  and  flowering  shrubs  of  all  countries. 

The  development  is  on  the  South  Beach,  which 
was  in  January,  1887,  nothing  but  a  waste  of  sand  and 
chaparral.  I  doubt  if  the  world  can  show  a  like  trans- 
formation in  so  short  a  time.  I  saw  it  in  February  of 
that  year,  when  all  the  beauty,  except  that  of  ocean, 
sky,  and  atmosphere,  was  still  to  be  imagined.  It  is 
now  as  if  the  wand  of  the  magician  had  touched  it.  In 
the  first  place,  abundance  of  water  was  brought  over 
by  a  submarine  conduit,  and  later  from  the  extraordi- 
nary Coronado  Springs  (excellent  soft  water  for  drink- 
ing and  bathing,  and  with  a  recognized  medicinal  val- 
ue), and  with  these  streams  the  beach  began  to  bloom 
hke  a  tropical  garden.      Tens  of  thousands  of  trees 

6 


82  OUE  ITALY. 

have  attained  a  remarkable  growth  in  three  years. 
The  nursery  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  botanical 
and  flower  gardens  in  the  country;  palms  and  hedges 
of  Monterey  cypress  and  marguerites  hne  the  avenues. 
There  are  parks  and  gardens  of  rarest  flowers  and 
shrubs,  whose  brilhant  color  produces  the  same  excite- 
ment in  the  mind  as  strains  of  martial  music.  A  rail- 
way traverses  the  beach  for  a  mile  from  the  ferry  to 
the  hotel.  There  are  hundreds  of  cottages  with  their 
gardens  scattered  over  the  surface ;  there  is  a  race- 
track, a  museum,  an  ostrich  farm,  a  labyrinth,  good 
roads  for  driving,  and  a  dozen  other  attractions  for 
the  idle  or  the  inquisitive. 

The  hotel  stands  upon  the  south  front  of  the  beach 
and  near  the  sea,  above  which  it  is  sufficiently  elevated 
to  give  a  flne  prospect.  The  sound  of  the  beating  surf 
is  perpetual  there.  At  low  tide  there  is  a  splendid 
driving  beach  miles  in  extent,  and  though  the  slope 
is  abrupt,  the  opportunity  for  bathing  is  good,  with  a 
httle  care  in  regard  to  the  undertow.  But  there  is  a 
safe  natatorium  on  the  harbor  side  close  to  the  hotel. 
The  stranger,  when  he  first  comes  upon  this  novel 
hotel  and  this  marvellous  scene  of  natural  and  created 
beauty,  is  apt  to  exhaust  his  superlatives.  I  hesitate 
to  attempt  to  describe  this  hotel — this  airy  and  pictur- 
esque and  half -bizarre  wooden  creation  of  the  archi- 
tect. Taking  it  and  its  situation  together,  I  know 
nothing  else  in  the  world  with  which  to  compare  it, 
and  I  have  never  seen  any  other  which  so  surprised  at 
first,  that  so  improved  on  a  two  weeks'  acquaintance, 
and  that  has  left  in  the  mind  an  impression  so  entirely 
agreeable.  It  covers  about  four  and  a  half  acres  of 
ground,  including  an  inner  court  of  about  an  acre,  the 


HOTEL   DEL    CORONADO. 


THE   ^^^NTER   ON   THE   COAST.  85 

rich  made  soil  of  which  is  raised  to  the  level  of  the 
main  floor.  The  house  surrounds  this,  in  the  Spanish 
mode  of  building,  with  a  series  of  galleries,  so  that 
most  of  the  suites  of  rooms  have  a  double  outlook — 
one  upon  this  lovely  garden,  the  other  upon  the  ocean 
or  the  harbor.  The  effect  of  this  interior  court  or 
patio  is  to  give  gayety  and  an  air  of  friendliness  to 
the  place,  brilhant  as  it  is  with  flowers  and  climbing 
vines ;  and  when  the  royal  and  date  palms  that  are 
vigorously  thriving  in  it  attain  their  growth  it  will  be 
magnificent.  Big  hotels  and  caravansaries  are  usually 
tiresome,  unfriendly  places;  and  if  I  should  lay  too 
much  stress  upon  the  vast  dining-room  (which  has  a 
floor  area  of  ten  thousand  feet  without  post  or  pillar), 
or  the  beautiful  breakfast -room,  or  the  cu'cular  ball- 
room (which  has  an  area  of  eleven  thousand  feet,  with 
its  timber  roof  open  to  the  lofty  observatory),  or  the 
music -room,  billiard  -  rooms  for  ladies,  the  reading- 
rooms  and  parlors,  the  pretty  gallery  overlooking  the 
spacious  office  rotunda,  and  then  say  that  the  whole 
is  illuminated  with  electric  hghts,  and  capable  of  be- 
ing heated  to  any  temperature  desired — I  might  con- 
vey a  false  impression  as  to  the  actual  comfort  and 
home-likeness  of  this  charming  place.  On  the  sea  side 
the  broad  galleries  of  each  story  are  shut  in  by  glass, 
which  can  be  opened  to  admit  or  shut  to  exclude  the 
fresh  ocean  breeze.  Whatever  the  temperature  out- 
side, those  great  galleries  are  always  agreeable  for 
lounging  or  promenading.  For  me,  I  never  tire  of 
the  sea  and  its  changing  color  and  movement.  If  this 
great  house  were  filled  with  guests,  so  spacious  are  its 
lounging  places  I  should  think  it  would  never  appear 
to  be  crowded;   and  if  it  were  nearly  empty,  so  ad- 


86 


OUR  ITALY. 


mirably  are  the  rooms  contrived  for  family  life  it  will 
not  seem  lonesome.  I  shall  add  that  the  management 
is  of  the  sort  that  makes  the  guest  feel  at  home  and  at 
ease.  Flowers,  brought  in  from  the  gardens  and  nurs- 
eries, are  everywhere  in  profusion  —  on  the  dining- 
tables,  in  the  rooms,  all  about  the  house.     So  abun- 


OSTRICH   YARD,  CORONADO  BEACH. 


dantly  are  they  produced  that  no  amount  of  culling 
seems  to  make  an  impression  upon  their  mass. 

But  any  description  would  fail  to  give  the  secret  of 
the  charm  of  existence  here.  Restlessness  disappears, 
for  one  thing,  but  there  is  no  languor  or  depression.  I 
cannot  tell  why,  when  the  thermometer  is  at  60°  or 
63°,  the  air  seems  genial  and  has  no  sense  of  chiUiness, 


THE   WINTER   ON   THE   COAST.  87 

or  why  it  is  not  oppressive  at  80°  or  85°.  I  am  sure 
the  place  will  not  suit  those  whose  highest  idea  of 
Tvinter  enjoyment  is  tobogganing  and  an  ice  palace, 
nor  those  who  revel  in  the  steam  and  languor  of  a 
tropical  island ;  but  for  a  person  whose  desires  are 
moderate,  whose  tastes  are  temperate,  who  is  mlling 
for  once  to  be  good-humored  and  content  in  equable 
conditions,  I  should  commend  Coronado  Beach  and 
the  Hotel  del  Coronado,  if  I  had  not  long  ago  learned 
that  it  is  unsafe  to  commend  to  any  human  being  a 
climate  or  a  doctor. 

But  you  can  take  your  choice.  It  lies  there,  our 
Mediterranean  region,  on  a  blue  ocean,  protected  by 
barriers  of  granite  from  the  Northern  influences,  an 
infinite  variety  of  plain,  canon,  hills,  valleys,  sea-coast ; 
our  New  Italy  without  malaria,  and  with  every  sort  of 
fruit  which  we  desire  (except  the  tropical),  which  will 
be  grown  in  perfection  when  our  knowledge  equals  our 
ambition  ;  and  if  you  cannot  find  a  winter  home  there 
or  pass  some  contented  weeks  in  the  months  of  North- 
ern inclemency,  you  are  weighing  social  advantages 
against  those  of  the  least  objectionable  climate  within 
the  Union.  It  is  not  yet  proved  that  this  equability 
and  the  daily  out-door  hfe  possible  there  mil  change 
character,  but  they  are  hkely  to  improve  the  disposi- 
tion and  soften  the  asperities  of  common  life.  At  any 
rate,  there  is  a  land  where  from  November  to  April 
one  has  not  to  make  a  continual  fight  with  the  ele- 
ments to  keep  ahve. 

It  has  been  said  that  this  land  of  the  sun  and  of 
i:he  equable  climate  will  have  the  effect  that  other 
lands  of  a  southern  aspect  have  upon  temperament 
and  habits.     It  is  feared  that  Northern -bred  people. 


88  OUE  ITALY. 

wlio  are  guided  by  the  necessity  of  making  hay  while 
the  sun  shines,  will  not  make  hay  at  all  in  a  land 
where  the  sun  always  shines.  It  is  thought  that  un- 
less people  are  spurred  on  incessantly  by  the  exigen- 
cies of  the  changing  seasons  they  will  lose  energy,  and 
fall  into  an  idle  floating  along  with  gracious  nature. 
Will  not  one  sink  into  a  comfortable  and  easy  pro- 
crastination if  he  has  a  whole  year  in  which  to  per- 
form the  labor  of  three  months  ?  Will  Southern  Cali- 
fornia be  an  exception  to  those  lands  of  equable  climate 
and  extraordinary  fertihty  where  every  effort  is  post- 
poned till  "  to-morrow  f 

I  wish  there  might  be  something  sohd  in  this  ex- 
pectation ;  that  this  may  be  a  region  where  the  rest- 
less American  will  lose  something  of  his  hurry  and 
petty,  feverish  ambition.  Partially  it  may  be  so.  He 
will  take,  he  is  ah'eady  taking,  something  of  the  tone 
of  the  chmate  and  of  the  old  Spanish  occupation.  But 
the  race  instinct  of  thrift  and  of  "  getting  on"  will  not 
wear  out  in  many  generations.  Besides,  the  condition 
of  living  at  all  in  Southern  California  in  comfort,  and 
with  the  social  life  indispensable  to  our  people,  de- 
mands labor,  not  exhausting  and  killing,  but  still  in- 
cessant—  demands  industry.  A  land  that  will  not 
yield  satisfactorily  without  uTigation,  and  whose  best 
paying  produce  requires  intelhgent  as  well  as  careful 
husbandry,  will  never  be  an  idle  land.  Egypt,  with 
all  its  dolce  far  niente,  was  never  an  idle  land  for  the 
laborer. 

It  may  be  expected,  however,  that  no  more  energy 
will  be  developed  or  encouraged  than  is  needed  for  the 
daily  tasks,  and  these  tasks  being  hghter  than  else- 
where, and  capable  of  being  postponed,  that  there  will 


THE   WINTER   ON   THE   COAST.  89 

be  less  stress  and  strain  in  the  daily  life.  Although 
the  climate  of  Southern  California  is  not  enervating, 
in  fact  is  stimulating  to  the  new-comer,  it  is  doubtless 
true  that  the  monotony  of  good  weather,  of  the  sight 
of  perpetual  bloom  and  color  in  orchards  and  gardens, 
will  take  away  nervousness  and  produce  a  certain  pla- 
cidity, which  might  be  taken  for  laziness  by  a  North- 
ern observer.  It  may  be  that  engagements  will  not  be 
kept  with  desired  punctuality,  under  the  impression 
that  the  enjoyment  of  life  does  not  depend  upon  exact 
response  to  the  second-hand  of  a  watch ;  and  it  is  not 
unpleasant  to  think  that  there  is  a  corner  of  the  Union 
where  there  will  be  a  little  more  leism^e,  a  little  more 
of  serene  waiting  on  Providence,  an  abatement  of  the 
restless  rush  and  haste  of  our  usual  life.  The  waves 
of  population  have  been  rolling  westward  for  a  long 
time,  and  now,  breaking  over  the  mountains,  they  flow 
over  Pacific  slopes  and  along  the  warm  and  inviting 
seas.  Is  it  altogether  an  unpleasing  thought  that  the 
conditions  of  life  will  be  somewhat  easier  there,  that 
there  will  be  some  physical  repose,  the  race  having 
reached  the  sunset  of  the  continent,  comparable  to  the 
desirable  placidity  of  hfe  called  the  sunset  of  old  age  ? 
This  may  be  altogether  fanciful,  but  I  have  sometimes 
felt,  in  the  sunny  moderation  of  nature  there,  that  this 
land  might  offer  for  thousands  at  least  a  winter  of 
content. 


CHAPTER  YIII. 
THE  GENEEAL   OUTLOOK. — LAND  AND  PKICES. 

From  the  northern  hmit  of  Cahfornia  to  the  south- 
ern is  about  the  same  distance  as  from  Portsmouth, 
New  Hampshire,  to  Charleston,  South  Carohna.  Of 
these  two  coast  hues,  covering  nearly  ten  degrees  of 
latitude,  or  over  seven  hundred  miles,  the  Atlantic  has 
greater  extremes  of  climate  and  greater  monthly  varia- 
tions, and  the  Pacific  greater  variety  of  productions. 
The  State  of  California  is,  however,  so  mountainous, 
cut  by  longitudinal  and  transverse  ranges,  that  any 
reasonable  person  can  find  in  it  a  temperature  to  suit 
him  the  year  through.  But  it  does  not  need  to  be 
explained  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  hit  upon  any 
general  characteristic  that  would  apply  to  the  stretch 
of  the  Atlantic  coast  named,  as  a  guide  to  a  settler 
looking  for  a  home;  the  description  of  Massachusetts 
would  be  wholly  misleading  for  South  Carohna.  It  is 
almost  as  difficult  to  make  any  comprehensive  state- 
ment about  the  long  hne  of  the  California  coast. 

It  is  possible,  however,  hmiting  the  inquiry  to  the 
southern  third  of  the  State — an  area  of  about  fifty- 
eight  thousand  square  miles,  as  large  as  Maine,  New 
Hampshire,  Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  and  Rhode 
Island — to  answer  fairly  some  of  the  questions  often- 
est  asked  about  it.  These  relate  to  the  price  of  land, 
its  productiveness,  the  kind  of  products  most  profit- 


THE   GENERAL   OUTLOOK. — LAND   AND   PRICES.  91 

able,  the  sort  of  labor  required,  and  its  desirability  as 
a  i^lace  of  residence  for  the  laborer,  for  the  farmer  or 
horticulturist  of  small  means,  and  for  the  man  with 
considerable  capital.  Questions  on  these  subjects  can- 
not be  answered  categorically,  but  I  hope  to  be  able, 
by  setting  down  my  own  observations  and  using  trust- 
worthy reports,  to  give  others  the  material  on  which  to 
exercise  their  judgment.  In  the  first  place,  I  think  it 
demonstrable  that  a  person  would  profitably  exchange 
160  acres  of  farming  land  east  of  the  one  hundredth 
pjarallel  for  ten  acres,  with  a  water  right,  in  Southern 
Cahfornia. 

In  making  this  estimate  I  do  not  consider  the  ques- 
tion of  health  or  merely  the  agreeability  of  the  cli- 
mate, but  the  conditions  of  labor,  the  ease  with  which 
one  could  support  a  family,  and  the  profits  over  and 
above  a  fair  li\dng.  It  has  been  customary  in  reckon- 
ing the  value  of  land  there  to  look  merely  to  the  profit 
of  it  beyond  its  support  of  a  family,  forgetting  that 
agriculture  and  horticulture  the  world  over,  like  al- 
most all  other  kinds  of  business,  usually  do  little  more 
than  procure  a  good  comfortable  living,  with  inci- 
dental education,  to  those  who  engage  in  them.  That 
the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  California 
will  become  rich  by  the  culture  of  the  orange  and  the 
vine  is  an  illusion;  but  it  is  not  an  illusion  that 
twenty  times  its  present  population  can  live  there  in 
comfort,  in  what  might  be  called  luxury  elsewhere,  by 
the  cultivation  of  the  soil,  all  far  removed  from  pov- 
erty and  much  above  the  condition  of  the  majority  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  foreign  wine  and  fruit-produc- 
ing countries.  This  result  is  assured  by  the  extraor- 
dinary productiveness  of  the  land,  uninterrupted  the 


92 


OUE   ITALY. 


year  through,  and  by  the  amazing  extension  of  the 
market  in  the  United  States  for  products  that  can  be 
nowhere  else  produced  with  such  certainty  and  profu- 
sion as  in  Cahfornia.  That  State  is  only  just  learning 
how  to  supply  a  demand  which  is  daily  increasing,  but 
it  already  begins  to  command  the  market  in  certain 
fruits.  This  command  of  the  market  in  the  future 
will  depend  upon  itseK,  that  is,  whether  it  will  send 


YUCCA -PALM. 


East  and  North  only  sound  wine,  instead  of  crude,  ill- 
cured  juice  of  the  grape,  only  the  best  and  most  care- 
fully canned  apricots,  nectarines,  peaches,  and  plums, 


THE   GENEKAL   OUTLOOK. — LAND   AND   PRICES. 


93 


only  the  raisins  and  prunes  perfectly  prepared,  only 
such  oranges,  lemons,  and  grapes  and  pears  as  the 
Calif ornians  are  willing  to  eat  themselves.  California 
has  yet  much  to  learn  about  fruit-raising  and  fruit- 
curing,  but  it  already 
knows  that  to  compete 
with  the  rest  of  the 
world  in  our  markets 
it  must  beat  the  rest 
of  the  world  in  qual- 
ity. It  will  take  some 
time  yet  to  remove  the 
unfavorable  opinion  of 
California  wines  pro- 
duced in  the  East  by 
the  first  products  of  the 
vineyards  sent  here. 

The  difficulty  for  the 
settler  is  that  he  can- 
not "take  up"  ten  acres 
with  water  in  Califor- 
nia as  he  can  160  acres 
elsewhere.  There  is 
left  little  available 

Government  land.  There  is  plenty  of  government 
land  not  taken  up  and  which  may  never  be  occupied, 
that  is,  inaccessible  mountain  and  irreclaimable  desert. 
There  are  also  little  nooks  and  fertile  sj^ots  here  and 
there  to  be  discovered  which  may  be  pre-empted,  and 
which  will  some  day  have  value.  But  practically  all 
the  arable  land,  or  that  is  likely  to  become  so,  is  owned 
now  in  large  tracts,  under  grants  or  by  wholesale  pur- 
chase.    The  circumstances  of  the  case  compelled  asso- 


DATE-PALM. 


94:  OUE   ITALY. 

ciate  effort.  Such  a  desert  as  that  now  blooming  re- 
gion known  as  Pasadena,  Pomona,  Riverside,  and  so 
on,  could  not  be  subdued  by  individual  exertion.  Con- 
sequently land  and  water  companies  were  organized. 
They  bought  large  tracts  of  imimproved  land,  built 
dams  in  the  mountain  canons,  sunk  wells,  drew  water 
from  the  rivers,  made  reservoirs,  laid  pipes,  carried 
ditches  and  conduits  across  the  country,  and  then  sold 
the  land  with  the  inseparable  water  right  in  small  par- 
cels. Thus  the  region  became  subdivided  among  small 
holders,  each  independent,  but  all  mutually  dependent 
as  to  water,  which  is  the  sine  qua  non  of  existence.  It 
is  only  a  few  years  since  there  was  a  forlorn  and  strug- 
gling colony  a  few  miles  east  of  Los  Angeles  known  as 
the  Indiana  settlement.  It  had  scant  water,  no  rail- 
way communication,  and  everything  to  learn  about 
horticulture.  That  spot  is  now  the  famous  Pasadena. 
What  has  been  done  in  the  Santa  Ana  and  San 
Gabriel  valleys  will  be  done  elsewhere  in  the  State. 
There  are  places  in  Kern  County,  north  of  the  Sierra 
Madre,  where  the  land  produces  grain  and  aKalfa  with- 
out irrigation,  where  farms  can  be  bought  at  from  five 
to  ten  dollars  an  acre — land  that  will  undoubtedly  in- 
crease in  value  with  settlement  and  also  by  irrigation. 
The  great  county  of  San  Diego  is  practically  undevel- 
oped, and  contains  an  immense  area,  in  scattered  mesas 
and  valleys,  of  land  which  will  produce  apples,  grain, 
and  grass  without  irrigation,  and  which  the  settler  can 
get  at  moderate  prices.  Nay,  more,  any  one  with  a  lit- 
tle ready  money,  who  goes  to  Southern  Cahfornia  ex- 
pecting to  establish  himself  and  willing  to  work,  will 
be  welcomed  and  aided,  and  be  pretty  certain  to  find 
some  place  where  he  can  steadily  improve  his  condi- 


THE   GENERAL   OUTLOOK. — LAND   AND   PRICES.  95 

tion.  But  the  regions  about  which  one  hears  most, 
which  are  ah'eady  fruit  gardens  and  well  sprinkled 
with  rose-clad  homes,  command  prices  per  acre  which 
seem  extravagant.  Land,  however,  hke  a  mine,  gets 
its  value  from  what  it  will  produce ;  and  it  is  to  be 
noted  that  while  the  subsidence  of  the  "boom"  knock- 
ed the  value  out  of  twenty-feet  city  lots  staked  out  in 
the  wilderness,  and  out  of  insanely  inflated  city  prop- 
erty, the  land  upon  wliich  crops  are  raised  has  steadily 
appreciated  in  value. 

So  many  conditions  enter  into  the  price  of  land 
that  it  is  impossible  to  name  an  average  price  for  the 
arable  land  of  the  southern  counties,  but  I  have  heard 
good  judges  place  it  at  $100  an  acre.  The  lands,  with 
water,  are  very  much  ahke  in  their  producing  power, 
but  some,  for  climatic  reasons,  are  better  adapted  to 
citrus  fi'uits,  others  to  the  raisin  grape,  and  others  to 
deciduous  fruits.  The  value  is  also  affected  by  rail- 
way facilities,  contiguity  to  the  local  commercial  cen- 
tre, and  also  by  the  character  of  the  settlement — that 
is,  by  its  morality,  pubhc  spirit,  and  facilities  for  edu- 
cation. Every  town  and  settlement  thinks  it  has 
special  advantages  as  to  improved  irrigation,  equa- 
bihty  of  temperature,  adaptation  to  this  or  that  prod- 
uct, attractions  for  invalids,  tempered  ocean  breezes, 
protection  from  "northers,"  schools,  and  varied  indus- 
tries. These  things  are  so  much  matter  of  personal 
choice  that  each  settler  will  do  well  to  examine  widely 
for  himself,  and  not  buy  until  he  is  suited. 

Some  figures,  which  may  be  depended  on,  of  actual 
sales  and  of  annual  yields,  may  be  of  service.  They 
are  of  the  district  east  of  Pasadena  and  Pomona,  but 
fairly  represent  the  whole  region  down  to  Los  Angeles. 


96  OUK  ITALY. 

The  selling  price  of  raisin  grape  land  "unimproved,  but 
with  water,  at  Riverside  is  $250  to  $300  per  acre;  at 
South  Riverside,  $150  to  $200;  in  the  highland  district 
of  San  Bernardino,  and  at  Redlands  (which  is  a  new 
settlement  east  of  the  city  of  San  Bernardino),  $200  to 
$250  per  acre.  At  Banning  and  at  Hesperia,  which  he 
north  of  the  San  Bernardino  range,  $125  to  $150  per 
acre  are  the  prices  askedo  Distance  from  the  com- 
mercial centre  accounts  for  the  difference  in  price  in 
the  towns  named.  The  crop  varies  with  the  care  and 
skill  of  the  cultivator,  but  a  fair  average  from  the 
vines  at  two  years  is  two  tons  per  acre;  three  years, 
three  tons;  four  years,  five  tons;  five  years,  seven  tons. 
The  price  varies  with  the  season,  and  also  whether  its 
sale  is  upon  the  vines,  or  after  picking,  drying,  and 
sweating,  or  the  packed  product.  On  the  vines  $20 
per  ton  is  a  fair  average  price.  In  exceptional  cases 
vineyards  at  Riverside  have  produced  four  tons  per 
acre  in  twenty  months  from  the  setting  of  the  cut- 
tings, and  six -year -old  vines  have  produced  thirteen 
and  a  half  tons  per  acre.  If  the  grower  has  a  crop  of, 
say,  2000  packed  boxes  of  raisins  of  twenty  pounds 
each  box,  it  will  pay  him  to  pack  his  own  crop  and 
establish  a  "brand"  for  it.  In  1889  three  adjoining 
vineyards  in  Riverside,  producing  about  the  same 
average  crops,  were  sold  as  follows:  The  first  vine- 
yard, at  $17  50  per  ton  on  the  vines,  yielded  $150  per 
acre;  the  second,  at  six  cents  a  pound,  in  the  sweat 
boxes,  yielded  $276  per  acre ;  the  third,  at  $1  80  per 
box,  packed,  yielded  $114  per  acre. 

Land  adapted  to  the  deciduous  fruits,  such  as  apri- 
cots and  peaches,  is  worth  as  much  as  raisin  land,  and 
some  years  pays  better.     The  pear  and  the  ajDple  need 


THE   GENERAL   OUTLOOK. — LAND   AND   PRICES.  97 

greater  elevation,  and  are  of  better  quality  when  grown 
on  high  ground  than  in  the  valleys.  I  have  reason  to 
beheve  that  the  mountain  regions  of  San  Diego  Coun- 
ty are  specially  adapted  to  the  apple. 

Good  orange  land  unimproved,  but  with  water,  is 
worth  from  $300  to  $500  an  acre.  If  we  add  to  this 
price  the  cost  of  budded  trees,  the  care  of  them  for 
four  years,  and  interest  at  eight  per  cent,  per  annum 
for  four  years,  the  cost  of  a  good  grove  will  be  about 
$1000  an  acre.  It  must  be  understood  that  the  profit 
of  an  orange  grove  depends  upon  care,  skill,  and  busi- 
ness ability.  The  kind  of  orange  grown  with  refer- 
ence to  the  demand,  the  judgment  about  more  or  less 
irrigation  as  affecting  the  quality,  the  cultivation  of 
the  soil,  and  the  arrangements  for  marketing,  are  all 
elements  in  the  problem.  There  are  young  groves  at 
Riverside,  five  years  old,  that  are  paying  ten  per  cent, 
net  upon  from  $3000  to  $5000  an  acre;  while  there  are 
older  groves,  which,  at  the  prices  for  fruit  in  the 
spring  of  1890 — $1  60  per  box  for  seedlings  and  $3  per 
box  for  navels  delivered  at  the  packing-houses — paid 
at  the  rate  of  ten  per  cent,  net  on  $7500  per  acre. 

In  all  these  estimates  water  must  be  reckoned  as  a 
prime  factor.  What,  then,  is  water  worth  per  inch, 
generally,  in  all  this  fruit  region  from  Redlands  to  Los 
Angeles"?  It  is  worth  just  the  amount  it  will  add  to 
the  commercial  value  of  land  irrigated  by  it,  and  that 
may  be  roughly  estimated  at  from  $500  to  $1000  an 
inch  of  continuous  flow.  Take  an  illustration.  A 
piece  of  land  at  Riverside  below  the  flow  of  water  was 
worth  $300  an  acre.  Contiguous  to  it  was  another 
piece  not  irrigated  which  would  not  seU  for  $50  an 
acre.     By  bringing  water  to  it,  it  would  quickly  seU 

7 


98  OUR  ITALY. 

for  $300,  thus  adding  $250  to  its  value.  As  the  esti- 
mate at  Riverside  is  that  one  inch  of  water  will  irri- 
gate five  acres  of  fruit  land,  five  times  $250  would  he 
$1250  per  inch,  at  which  price  water  for  irrigation  has 
actually  heen  sold  at  Riverside. 

The  standard  of  measurement  of  water  in  Southern 
Cahfornia  is  the  miner's  inch  under  four  inches'  pres- 
sure, or  the  amount  that  will  fiow  through  an  inch- 
square  opening  under  a  pressure  of  four  inches  meas- 
ured from  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  conduit  to 
the  centre  of  the  opening  through  which  it  flows. 
This  is  nine  gallons  a  minute,  or,  as  it  is  figured,  1728 
cubic  feet  or  12,960  gallons  in  twenty-four  hours,  and 
1.50  of  a  cubic  foot  a  second.  This  flow  would  cover 
ten  acres  about  eighteen  inches  deep  in  a  year ;  that 
is,  it  would  give  the  land  the  equivalent  of  eighteen 
inches  of  rain,  distributed  exactly  when  and  where  it 
was  needed,  none  being  wasted,  and  more  serviceable 
than  fifty  inches  of  rainfall  as  it  generally  comes. 
This,  with  the  natural  rainfall,  is  sufficient  for  citrus 
fruits  and  for  corn  and  alfalfa,  in  soil  not  too  sandy, 
and  it  is  too  much  for  grapes  and  all  deciduous  fruits. 


CHAPTER  IX. 
THE  ADVANTAGES   OF   IKEIGATION. 

It  is  necessary  to  understand  this  problem  of  irri- 
gation in  order  to  comprehend  Southern  Cahfornia,  the 
exceptional  value  of  its  arable  land,  the  certainty  and 
great  variety  of  its  products,  and  the  part  it  is  to  play 
in  our  markets.  There  are  three  factors  in  the  expec- 
tation of  a  crop — soil,  sunshine,  and  water.  In  a  re- 
gion where  we  can  assume  the  first  two  to  be  constant, 
the  only  uncertainty  is  water.  Southern  California 
is  practically  without  rain  from  May  to  December. 
Upon  this  fact  rests  the  immense  value  of  its  soil,  and 
the  certainty  that  it  can  supply  the  rest  of  the  Union 
with  a  great  variety  of  products.  This  certainty  must 
be  piu'chased  by  a  previous  investment  of  money. 
Water  is  everywhere  to  be  had  for  money,  in  some 
locahties  by  surface  wells,  in  others  by  artesian-wells, 
in  others  fi'om  such  streams  as  the  Los  Angeles  and 
the  Santa  Ana,  and  from  reservoirs  secured  by  dams 
in  the  heart  of  the  high  mountains.  It  is  possible  to 
compute  the  cost  of  any  one  of  the  systems  of  irriga- 
tion, to  determine  whether  it  will  pay  by  calculating 
the  amount  of  land  it  will  irrigate.  The  cost  of  pro- 
curing water  varies  greatly  with  the  situation,  and  it 
is  conceivable  that  money  can  be  lost  in  such  an  in- 
vestment, but  I  have  yet  to  hear  of  any  irrigation  that 
has  not  been  more  or  less  successful. 


100  OUE   ITALY. 

Farming  and  fruit  -  raising  are  usually  games  of 
hazard.  Grood  crops  and  poor  crops  depend  upon 
enough  rain  and  not  too  much  at  just  the  right  times. 
A  wheat  field  which  has  a  good  start  with  moderate 
rain  may  later  wither  in  a  drought,  or  he  ruined  hy  too 
much  water  at  the  time  of  maturity.  And,  avoiding 
all  serious  reverses  from  either  dryness  or  wet,  every 
farmer  knows  that  the  quality  and  quantity  of  the 
product  would  be  immensely  improved  if  the  growing 
stalks  and  roots  could  have  water  when  and  only  when 
they  need  it.  The  difference  would  he  between,  say, 
twenty  and  forty  bushels  of  grain  or  roots  to  the  acre, 
and  that  means  the  difference  between  profit  and  loss. 
There  is  probably  not  a  crop  of  any  kind  grown  in  the 
great  AYest  that  would  not  be  immensely  benefited  if 
it  could  be  irrigated  once  or  twice  a  year;  and  prob- 
ably anywhere  that  water  is  attainable  the  cost  of  irri- 
gation would  be  abundantly  paid  in  the  yield  from 
year  to  year.  Farming  in  the  West  with  even  a  little 
irrigation  would  not  be  the  game  of  hazard  that  it  is. 
And  it  may  further  be  assumed  that  there  is  not  a 
vegetable  patch  or  a  fruit  orchard  East  or  West  that 
would  not  yield  better  quality  and  more  abundantly 
with  irrigation. 

But  this  is  not  all.  Any  farmer  who  attempts  to 
raise  grass  and  potatoes  and  strawberries  on  contigu- 
ous fields,  subject  to  the  same  chance  of  drought  or 
rainfall,  has  a  vivid  sense  of  his  difficulties.  The  pota- 
toes are  spoiled  by  the  water  that  helps  the  grass,  and 
the  coquettish  strawberry  will  not  thrive  on  the  regi- 
men that  suits  the  grosser  crops.  In  California,  which 
by  its  climate  and  soil  gives  a  greater  variety  of  prod- 
ucts than  any  other  region  in  the  Union,  the  supply 


THE   ADVANTAGES   OF   IRRIGATION. 


101 


of  water  is  adjusted  to  the  needs  of  each  crop,  even 
on  contiguous  fields.  No  two  products  need  the  same 
amount  of  water,  or  need  it  at  the  same  time.  The 
orange  needs  more  than  the  grape,  the  alfalfa  more 
than  the  orange,  the  peach  and  apricot  less  than  the 
orange;  the  olive,  the  fig,  the  ahnond,  the  English  wal- 
nut, demand  each  a  different  supply.     Depending  en- 


RAISIN-CURING. 


tirely  on  irrigation  six  months  of  the  year,  the  farmer 
in  Southern  California  is  practically  certain  of  his  crop 
year  after  year ;  and  if  all  his  plants  and  trees  are  in 
a  healthful  condition,  as  they  will  be  if  he  is  not  too 
idle  to  cultivate  as  well  as  irrigate,  his  yield  will  be 
about  double  what  it  would  be  without  systematic  irri- 
gation.    It  is  this  practical  control  of  the  water  the 


102  OUR  ITALY. 

year  round,  in  a  climate  where  sunshine  is  the  rule, 
that  makes  the  productiveness  of  California  so  large 
as  to  be  incomprehensible  to  Eastern  people.  Even 
the  trees  are  not  dormant  more  than  three  or  four 
months  in  the  year. 

But  irrigation,  in  order  to  be  successful,  must  be 
intelhgently  applied.  In  unskilful  hands  it  may  work 
more  damage  than  benefit.  Mr.  Theodore  S.  Yan  Dyke, 
who  may  always  be  quoted  with  confidence,  says  that 
the  ground  should  never  be  flooded ;  that  water  must 
not  touch  the  plant  or  tree,  or  come  near  enough  to 
make  the  soil  bake  around  it ;  and  that  it  should  be  let 
in  in  small  streams  for  two  or  three  days,  and  not  in 
large  streams  for  a  few  hours.  It  is  of  the  first  im- 
portance that  the  ground  shall  be  stirred  as  soon  as 
dry  enough,  the  cultivation  to  be  continued,  and  water 
never  to  be  substituted  for  the  cultivator  to  prevent 
baking.  The  methods  of  irrigation  in  use  may  be  re- 
duced to  three.  First,  the  old  Mexican  way — running 
a  small  ditch  from  tree  to  tree,  without  any  basin  round 
the  tree.  Second,  the  basin  system,  where  a  large  ba- 
sin is  made  round  the  tree,  and  filled  several  times. 
This  should  only  be  used  where  water  is  scarce,  for  it 
trains  the  roots  hke  a  brush,  instead  of  sending  them 
out  laterally  into  the  soil.  Third,  the  Riverside  meth- 
od, which  is  the  best  in  the  world,  and  produces  the 
largest  results  with  the  least  water  and  the  least  work. 
It  is  the  closest  imitation  of  the  natural  process  of 
wetting  by  gentle  rain.  "A  small  flume,  eight  or  ten 
inches  square,  of  common  red-wood  is  laid  along  the 
upper  side  of  a  ten-acre  tract.  At  intervals  of  one  to 
three  feet,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  ground  and 
the  stuff  to  be  irrigated,  are  bored  one-inch  holes,  with 


THE  ADVANTAGES  OF   IRRIGATION.  103 

a  small  wooden  button  over  them  to  regulate  the  flow. 
This  flume  costs  a  trifle,  is  left  in  position,  lasts  for 
years,  and  is  always  ready.  Into  this  flume  is  turned 
fi'om  the  ditch  an  irrigating  head  of  20, 25,  or  30  inches 
of  water,  generally  about  20  inches.  This  is  divided 
by  the  holes  and  the  buttons  into  streams  of  from  one- 
sixth  to  one-tenth  of  an  inch  each,  making  from  120 
to  200  small  streams.  From  five  to  seven  furrows  are 
made  between  two  rows  of  trees,  two  between  rows  of 
grapes,  one  furrow  between  rows  of  corn,  potatoes,  etc. 
It  may  take  from  fifteen  to  twenty  hours  for  one  of  the 
streams  to  get  across  the  tract.  They  are  allowed  to 
run  from  forty-eight  to  seventy-two  hours.  The  ground 
is  then  thoroughly  wet  in  all  directions,  and  three  or 
four  feet  deep.  As  soon  as  the  ground  is  dry  enough 
cultivation  is  begun,  and  kept  up  from  six  to  eight 
weeks  before  water  is  used  again."  Only  when  the 
ground  is  very  sandy  is  the  basin  system  necessary. 
Long  experiment  has  taught  that  this  system  is  by  far 
the  best;  and,  says  Mr.  Van  Dyke,  "Those  whose  ideas 
are  taken  from  the  wasteful  systems  of  flooding  or 
soaking  from  big  ditches  have  something  to  learn  in 
Southern  Cahfornia." 

As  to  the  quantity  of  water  needed  in  the  kind  of 
soil  most  common  in  Southern  California  I  T\dll  again 
quote  Mr.  Van  Dyke:  "They  will  teU  you  at  Riverside 
that  they  use  an  inch  of  water  to  five  acres,  and  some 
say  an  inch  to  three  acres.  But  this  is  because  they 
charge  to  the  land  all  the  waste  on  the  main  ditch,  and 
because  they  use  thu'ty  per  cent,  of  the  water  in  July 
and  August,  when  it  is  the  lowest.  But  this  is  no  test 
of  the  duty  of  water;  the  amount  actually  dehvered 
on  the  land  should  be  taken.     What  they  actually  use 


104  OUK  ITALY. 


for  ten  acres  at  Riverside,  Redlands,  etc.,  is  a  twenty- 
inch  stream  of  three  days'  run  five  times  a  year,  equal 
to  300  inches  for  one  day,  or  one  inch  steadj^  run  for 
300  days.     As  an  inch  is  the  equivalent  of  365  inches 


IKRIGATION    BY    ARTESIAN-WKI.L    SYSTEM. 


for  one  day,  or  one  inch  for  365  days,  300  inches  for 
one  day  equals  an  inch  to  twelve  acres.  Many  use 
even  less  than  this,  running  the  water  only  two  or 
two  and  a  half  days  at  a  time.  Others  use  more  head; 
but  it  rarely  exceeds  24  inches  for  three  days  and  five 
times  a  year,  which  would  be  72  multiphed  by  5,  or 
360  inches — a  little  less  than  a  full  inch  for  a  year  for 
ten  acres." 

I  have  given  room  to  these  details  because  the 
Riverside  experiment,  which  results  in  such  large  re- 
turns of  excellent  fruit,  is  worthy  of  the  attention  of 
cultivators  everywhere.     The  constant  stirring  of  the 


THE  ADVANTAGES  OF  IKRIGATION.  105 

soil,  to  keep  it  loose  as  well  as  to  keep  down  useless 
growths,  is  second  in  importance  only  to  irrigation. 
Some  years  ago,  when  it  was  ascertained  that  tracts  of 
land  which  had  been  regarded  as  only  fit  for  herding 
cattle  and  sheep  would  by  good  ploughing  and  con- 
stant cultivation  produce  fair  crops  without  any  artifi- 
cial watering,  there  spread  abroad  a  notion  that  irriga- 
tion could  be  dispensed  with.  There  are  large  areas, 
dry  and  cracked  on  the  surface,  where  the  soil  is  moist 
three  and  four  feet  below  the  surface  in  the  dry  sea- 
son. By  keeping  the  surface  broken  and  well  pulver- 
ized the  moisture  rises  sufficiently  to  insure  a  crop. 


IRRIGATION    BY    PIPE    SYSTEM. 


Many  Western  farmers  have  found  out  this  secret  of 
cultivation,  and  more  will  learn  in  time  the  good  sense 
of  not  spreading  themselves  over  too  large  an  area; 
that  forty  acres  planted  and  cultivated  will  give  a 


106  OUR  ITALY. 

better  return  than  eighty  acres  planted  and  neglected. 
Crops  of  various  sorts  are  raised  in  Southern  Califor- 
nia by  careful  cultivation  with  little  or  no  irrigation, 
but  the  idea  that  cultivation  alone  will  bring  sufficient- 
ly good  production  is  now  practically  abandoned,  and 
the  almost  universal  experience  is  that  judicious  irri- 
gation always  improves  the  crop  in  quahty  and  in 
quantity,  and  that  iiTigation  and  cultivation  are  both 
essential  to  profitable  farming  or  fruit-raising. 


CHAPTER  X. 
THE  CHANCE  FOR  LABOREES  AND  SMALL  FARMERS. 

It  would  seem,  then,  that  capital  is  necessary  for 
snccessfnl  agriculture  or  horticulture  in  Southern  Cah- 
fornia.  But  where  is  it  not  needed'?  In  New  Eng- 
land ?  In  Kansas,  where  land  which  was  given  to 
actual  settlers  is  covered  with  mortgages  for  money 
absolutely  necessary  to  develop  it  ?  But  passing  this 
by,  what  is  the  chance  in  Southern  California  for  la- 
borers and  for  mechanics?  Let  us  understand  the  sit- 
uation. In  California  there  is  no  exception  to  the  rule 
that  continual  labor,  thrift,  and  foresight  are  essential 
to  the  getting  of  a  good  hving  or  the  gaining  of  a  com- 
petence. No  doubt  speculation  will  spring  up  again. 
It  is  inevitable  with  the  present  enormous  and  yearly 
increasing  yield  of  fruits,  the  better  intelhgence  in  ^ine 
culture,  wine-making,  and  raisin-curing,  the  growth  of 
marketable  oranges,  lemons,  etc.,  and  the  consequent 
rise  in  the  value  of  land.  Doubtless  fortunes  mil  be 
made  by  enterprising  companies  who  secure  large  areas 
of  unimproved  land  at  low  prices,  bring  water  on  them, 
and  then  sell  in  small  lots.  But  this  will  come  to  an 
end.  The  tendency  is  to  subdivide  the  land  into  small 
holdings — into  farms  and  gardens  of  ten  and  twenty 
acres.  The  great  ranches  are  sm'e  to  be  broken  up, 
"With  the  resulting  settlement  by  industrious  people 
the  cities  mil  again  experience  "booms ;"  but  these  are 


108  OUR   ITALY. 

not  peculiar  to  California.  In  my  mind  I  see  the  time 
when  this  region  (because  it  will  pay  better  propor- 
tionally to  cultivate  a  small  area)  will  be  one  of  small 
farms,  of  neat  cottages,  of  industrious  homes.  The 
owner  is  pretty  certain  to  prosper — that  is,  to  get  a 
good  living  (which  is  independence),  and  lay  aside  a 
little  yearly — if  the  work  is  done  by  himself  and  his 
family.  And  the  peculiarity  of  the  situation  is  that 
the  farm  or  garden,  whichever  it  is  called,  will  give 
agreeable  and  most  healthful  occupation  to  all  the 
boys  and  girls  in  the  family  all  the  days  in  the  year 
that  can  be  spared  from  the  school.  Aside  from  the 
ploughing,  the  labor  is  light.  Pruning,  grafting,  bud- 
ding, the  picking  of  the  grapes,  the  gathering  of  the 
fruit  from  the  trees,  the  sorting,  packing,  and  canning, 
are  labor  for  light  and  deft  hands,  and  labor  distrib- 
uted through  the  year.  The  harvest,  of  one  sort  and 
another,  is  almost  continuous,  so  that  young  girls  and 
boys  can  have,  in  well-settled  districts,  pretty  steady 
employment — a  long  season  in  establishments  packing 
oranges ;  at  another  time,  in  canning  fruits ;  at  an- 
other, in  packing  raisins. 

It  goes  without  saying  that  in  the  industries  now 
developed,  and  in  others  as  important  which  are  in 
their  infancy  (for  instance,  the  culture  of  the  olive 
for  oil  and  as  an  article  of  food;  the  growth  and  cur- 
ing of  figs ;  the  gathering  of  almonds,  Enghsh  walnuts, 
etc.),  the  labor  of  the  owners  of  the  land  and  their 
families  will  not  suffice.  There  must  be  as  large  a 
proportion  of  day -laborers  as  there  are  in  other  re- 
gions where  such  products  are  grown.  Chinese  labor 
at  certain  seasons  has  been  a  necessity.  Under  the 
present  pohcy  of  California  this  must  diminish,  and  its 


THE  CHANCE  FOR  LABORERS  AND  SMALL  FARMERS.  109 

place  be  taken  by  some  other.  The  pay  for  this  labor 
has  always  been  good.  It  is  certain  to  be  more  and 
more  in  demand.  Whether  the  pay  vnM  ever  apj^roaeh 
near  to  the  European  standard  is  a  question,  but  it  is 
a  fair  presumption  that  the  exceptional  profit  of  the 
land,  owing  to  its  productiveness,  will  for  a  long  time 
keep  wages  up. 

During  the  "  boom "  iDcriod  all  wages  were  high, 
those  of  sldlled  mechanics  especially,  owing  to  tlie 
great  amount  of  building  on  speculation.  The  ordi- 
nary laborer  on  a  ranch  had  $30  a  month  and  board 
and  lodging ;  laborers  of  a  higher  grade,  $2  to  $2  50  a 
day;  skilled  masons,  $6;  carpenters,  from  $3  50  to  $5; 
plasterers,  $4  to  $5 ;  house-servants,  from  $25  to  $35  a 
month.  Since  the  "  boom,"  wages  of  skilled  mechanics 
have  declined  at  least  25  per  cent.,  and  there  has  been 
less  demand  for  labor  generally,  except  in  connection 
with  fruit  raising  and  harvesting.  It  would  be  unwise 
for  laborers  to  go  to  California  on  an  uncertainty,  but 
it  can  be  said  of  that  country  with  more  confidence 
than  of  any  other  section  that  its  pecuhar  industries, 
now  daily  increasing,  will  absorb  an  increasing  amount 
of  day  labor,  and  later  on  it  will  remunerate  skilled 
artisan  labor. 

In  deciding  whether  Southern  Cahfornia  would  be 
an  agreeable  place  of  residence  there  are  other  things 
to  be  considered  besides  the  productiveness  of  the  soil, 
the  variety  of  products,  the  ease  of  out-door  labor  dis- 
tributed through  the  year,  the  certainty  of  returns  for 
intelhgent  investment  WT.th  labor,  the  equability  of 
summer  and  muter,  and  the  adaptation  to  i3ersonal 
health.  There  are  always  disadvantages  attending  the 
development  of  a  new  country  and  the  evolution  of  a 


110 


OUR  ITALY. 


new  society.  It  is  not  a  small  thing,  and  may  be  one 
of  daily  discontent,  the  change  from  a  landscape  clad 
with  verdure,  the  riotous  and  irrepressible  growth  of  a 
rainy  region,  to  a  land  that  the  greater  part  of  the  year 
is  green  only  where  it  is  artificially  watered,  where  all 


GARDEN    SCENE,  SANTA  ANA. 


the  hills  and  unwatered  plains  are  brown  and  sere, 
where  the  foliage  is  coated  with  dust,  and  where  driv- 
ing anywhere  outside  the  sprinkled  avenues  of  a  town 
is  to  be  enveloped  in  a  cloud  of  powdered  earth.     This 


THE  CHANCE  FOE  LABORERS  AND  SMALL  FARMERS.  Ill 

discomfort  must  be  weighed  against  the  commercial 
advantages  of  a  land  of  irrigation. 

What  are  the  chances  for  a  family  of  very  moder- 
ate means  to  obtain  a  foothold  and  thi'ive  by  farming 
in  Southern  California'?  I  cannot  answer  this  better 
than  by  giving  substantially  the  experience  of  one 
family,  and  by  saying  that  this  has  been  paralleled, 
with  change  of  details,  by  many  others.  Of  course,  in 
a  highly  developed  settlement,  where  the  land  is 
mostly  cultivated,  and  its  actual  yearly  produce  makes 
its  price  very  high,  it  is  not  easy  to  get  a  foothold. 
But  there  are  many  regions — say  in  Orange  County, 
and  certainly  in  San  Diego — where  land  can  be  had  at 
a  moderate  price  and  on  easy  terms  of  payment.  In- 
deed, there  are  few  places,  as  I  have  said,  where  an 
industrious  family  would  not  find  welcome  and  cordial 
help  in  estabhshing  itself.  And  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  there  are  many  communities  where  life  is 
very  simple,  and  the  great  expense  of  keeping  up  an 
appearance  attending  life  elsewhere  need  not  be  reck- 
oned. 

A  few  years  ago  a  professional  man  in  a  New  Eng- 
land city,  who  was  in  dehcate  health,  with  his  wife 
and  five  boys,  all  under  sixteen,  and  one  too  young  to 
be  of  any  service,  moved  to  San  Diego.  He  had  in 
money  a  small  sum,  less  than  a  thousand  dollars.  He 
had  no  experience  in  farming  or  horticultm^e,  and  his 
health  would  not  have  permitted  him  to  do  much  field 
work  in  our  climate.  Fortunately  he  found  in  the  fer- 
tile El  Cajon  Valley,  fifteen  miles  from  San  Diego,  a 
farmer  and  fruit  -  grower,  who  had  upon  his  place  a 
small  unoccupied  house.  Into  that  house  he  moved, 
furnishing  it  very  simply  with  furniture  bought  in  San 


112  OUR  ITALY. 

Diego,  and  hired  Ms  services  to  tlie  landlord.  The 
work  required  was  comparatively  easy,  in  tb3  orchard 
and  vineyards,  and  consisted  largely  in  superintending 
other  laborers.  The  pay  was  about  enough  to  support 
his  family  without  encroaching  on  his  little  capital. 
Very  soon,  however,  he  made  an  arrangement  to  buy 
the  small  house  and  tract  of  some  twenty  acres  on 
which  he  hved,  on  time,  perhaps  making  a  partial  pay- 
ment. He  began  at  once  to  ]3ut  out  an  orange  orchard 
and  plant  a  vineyard ;  this  he  accomphshed  with  the 
assistance  of  his  boys,  who  did  practically  most  of  the 
work  after  the  first  planting,  leaving  him  a  chance  to 
give  most  of  his  days  to  his  employer.  The  orchard 
and  \dneyard  work  is  so  light  that  a  smart,  intelhgent 
boy  is  almost  as  valuable  a  worker  in  the  field  as  a 
man.  The  wife,  meantime,  kept  the  house  and  did  its 
work.  House -keepmg  was  comparatively  easy ;  httle 
fuel  was  required  except  for  cooking ;  the  question  of 
clothes  was  a  minor  one.  In  that  climate  wants  for  a 
fairly  comfortable  existence  are  fewer  than  with  us. 
From  the  first,  almost,  vegetables,  raised  upon  the 
ground  while  the  vines  and  oranges  were  growing, 
contributed  largely  to  the  support  of  the  family.  The 
out-door  life  and  freedom  fi-om  worry  insm-ed  better 
health,  and  the  diet  of  fruit  and  vegetables,  suitable 
to  the  chmate,  reduced  the  cost  of  h\dng  to  a  mini- 
mum. As  soon  as  the  orchard  and  the  vineyard  be- 
gan to  j)roduce  fruit,  the  owner  was  enabled  to  quit 
working  for  his  neighbor,  and  give  all  his  time  to  the 
development  of  his  own  place.  He  increased  his  plant- 
ing ;  he  added  to  his  house ;  he  bought  a  piece  of  land 
adjoining  which  had  a  grove  of  eucalyptus,  which 
would  supply  him  with  fuel.     At  first  the  society  cir- 


THE   CHANCE  EOK   LABOKEES  AND  SMALL   FAEMERS.     113 

cle  was  small,  and  there  was  no  school;  but  the  in- 
coming of  families  had  increased  the  number  of  chil- 
dren, so  that  an  excellent  public  school  Avas  established. 
When  I  saw  him  he  was  living  in  conditions  of  com- 
fortable industry ;  his  land  had  trebled  in  value ;  the 
pair  of  horses  which  he  drove  he  had  bought  cheap, 
for  they  were  Eastern  horses;  but  the  chmate  had 
brought  them  up,  so  that  the  team  was  a  serviceable 
one  in  good  condition.  The  story  is  not  one  of  brill- 
iant success,  but  to  me  it  is  much  more  hopeful  for 
the  country  than  the  other  tales  I  heard  of  sudden 
wealth  or  lucky  speculation.  It  is  the  founding  in  an 
unambitious  way  of  a  comfortable  home.  The  boys  of 
the  family  will  branch  out,  get  fields,  orchards,  vine- 
yards of  their  own,  and  add  to  the  solid  producing  in- 
dustry of  the  country.  This  orderly,  contented  indus- 
try, increasing  its  gains  day  by  day,  little  by  little,  is 
the  life  and  hope  of  any  State 
8 


CHAPTER   XL 
SOME  DETAILS   OF   THE  WONDEEFUL   DEVELOPMENT. 

It  is  not  the  purpose  of  this  vokime  to  describe 
Southern  Cahf ornia.  That  has  been  thoroughly  done ; 
and  details,  with  figures  and  pictures  in  regard  to  ev- 
ery town  and  settlement,  will  be  forthcoming  on  ap- 
plication, which  will  be  helpful  guides  to  persons  who 
can  see  for  themselves,  or  make  sufficient  allowance 
for  local  enthusiasm.  But  before  speaking  further  of 
certain  industries  south  of  the  great  mountain  ranges, 
the  region  north  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  which  is  allied 
to  Southern  California  by  its  productions,  should  be 
mentioned.  The  beautiful  antelope  plains  and  the 
Kern  Valley  (where  land  is  still  cheap  and  very  pro- 
ductive) should  not  be  overlooked.  The  splendid  San 
Joaquin  Valley  is  already  speaking  loudly  and  clearly 
for  itself.  The  region  north  of  the  mountains  of  Kern 
County,  shut  in  by  the  Sierra  Nevada  range  on  the 
east  and  the  Coast  Kange  on  the  west,  substantially 
one  valley,  fifty  to  sixty  miles  in  breadth,  watered  by 
the  King  and  the  San  Joaquin,  and  gently  sloping  to 
the  north,  say  for  two  hundred  miles,  is  a  land  of  mar- 
vellous capacity,  capable  of  sustaining  a  dense  popula- 
tion. It  is  cooler  in  winter  than  Southern  California, 
and  the  summers  average  much  warmer.  Owing  to 
the  greater  heat,  the  finiits  mature  sooner.  It  is  just 
now  becoming  celebrated  for  its  raisins,  which  in  qual- 


DETAILS   OF   THE  WONDERFUL   DEVELOPMENT.         115 

ity  are  unexcelled;  and  its  area,  which  can  be  well  u'- 
rigated  from  the  rivers  and  from  the  mountains  on 
either  side,  seems  capable  of  producing  raisins  enough 
to  supply  the  world.  It  is  a  wonderfully  rich  valley 
in  a  great  variety  of  products.  Fresno  County,  which 
occupies  the  centre  of  this  valley,  has  1,200,000  acres 
of  agricultm'al  and  4,400,000  of  mountain  and  pasture 
land.  The  city  of  Fresno,  which  occupies  land  that  in 
1870  was  a  sheep  ranch,  is  the  commercial  centre  of  a 
beautiful  agricultural  and  fi^uit  region,  and  has  a  pop- 
ulation estimated  at  12,000.  From  this  centre  were 
shipped  in  the  season  of  1890, 1500  car-loads  of  raisins. 
In  1865  the  only  exports  of  Fresno  County  were  a  few 
bales  of  wool.  The  report  of  1889  gave  a  shipment  of 
700,000  boxes  of  raisins,  and  the  whole  export  of  1890, 
of  all  products,  was  estimated  at  $10,000,000.  Wheth- 
er these  figures  are  exact  or  not,  there  is  no  doubt  of 
the  extraordinary  success  of  the  raisin  industry,  nor 
that  this  is  a  region  of  great  activity  and  promise. 

The  traveller  has  constantly  to  remind  himself  that 
this  is  a  new  country,  and  to  be  judged  as  a  new  coun- 
try. It  is  out  of  his  experience  that  trees  can  grow  so 
fast,  and  plantations  in  so  short  a  time  put  on  an  ap- 
pearance of  maturity.  When  he  sees  a  roomy,  pretty 
cottage  overrun  with  vines  and  flowering  plants,  set  in 
the  midst  of  trees  and  lawns  and  gardens  of  tropical 
appearance  and  luxuriance,  he  can  hardly  beheve  that 
three  years  before  this  spot  was  desert  land.  When 
he  looks  over  miles  of  vineyards,  of  groves  of  oranges, 
olives,  walnuts,  prunes,  the  trees  all  in  vigorous  bear- 
ing, he  cannot  beheve  that  five  or  ten  years  before  the 
whole  region  was  a  waste.  When  he  enters  a  hand- 
some viUage,  with  substantial  buildings  of  brick,  and 


116 


OUR  ITALY. 


perhaps  of  stone,  with  fine  school -houses,  banks,  ho- 
tels, an  opera-house,  large  packing -houses,  and  ware- 
houses and  shops  of  all  sorts,  with  tasteful  dwellings 
and  lovely  ornamented  lawns,  it  is  hard  to  understand 


A   GRAPE-VINE,   MONTECITO   VALLEY,   SANTA   BARBARA. 


that  all  this  is  the  creation  of  two  or  three  years.     Yet 
these  suri)rises  meet  the  traveller  at  every  turn,  and 
the  wonder  is  that  there  is  not  visible  more  crudeness, 
eccentric  taste,  and  evidence  of  hasty  beginnings. 
San  Bernardino  is  comparatively  a.n  old  town.     It 


DETAILS   OF   THE  WONDEEFUL  DEVELOPMENT.         117 

was  settled  in  1853  by  a  colony  of  Mormons  from  Salt 
Lake.  The  remains  of  this  colony,  less  than  a  hun- 
dred, still  live  here,  and  have  a  church  like  the  other 
sects,  but  they  call  themselves  Josephites,  and  do  not 
practise  polygamy.  There  is  probably  not  a  sect  or 
schism  in  the  United  States  that  has  not  its  represent- 
ative in  California.  Until  1865  San  Bernardino  was 
merely  a  straggling  settlement,  and  a  point  of  distribu- 
tion for  Arizona.  The  discovery  that  a  large  part  of 
the  county  was  adapted  to  the  orange  and  the  vine, 
and  the  advent  of  the  Santa  Fe  railway,  changed  all 
that.  Land  that  then  might  have  been  bought  for 
$4  an  acre  is  now  sold  at  from  $200  to  $300,  and  the 
city  has  become  the  busy  commercial  centre  of  a  large 
number  of  growing  villages,  and  of  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  orange  and  vine  districts  in  the  world.  It 
has  many  fine  buildings,  a  population  of  about  6000, 
and  a  decided  air  of  vigorous  business.  The  great 
plain  about  it  is  mainly  devoted  to  agricultural  prod- 
ucts, which  are  grown  without  irrigation,  while  in  the 
near  foot-hills  the  orange  and  the  vine  flourish  by  the 
aid  of  irrigation.  Artesian  -  wells  abound  in  the  San 
Bernardino  plain,  but  the  mountains  are  the  great  and 
unfailing  source  of  water  supply.  The  Bear  Valley 
Dam  is  a  most  daring  and  gigantic  construction.  A 
sohd  wall  of  masonry,  300  feet  long  and  60  feet  high, 
curving  towards  the  reservoir,  creates  an  inland  lake  in 
the  mountains  holding  water  enough  to  irrigate  20,000 
acres  of  land.  This  is  conveyed  to  distributing  reser- 
voirs in  the  east  end  of  the  valley.  On  a  terrace  in 
the  foot-hills  a  few  miles  to  the  north,  2000  feet  above 
the  sea,  are  the  Arrow-head  Hot  Springs  (named  from 
the  figure  of  a  gigantic  "arrow-head"  on  the  mount- 


118  OUE   ITALY. 

ain  above),  abeacly  a  favorite  resort  for  health  and 
pleasure.  The  views  from  the  plain  of  the  picturesque 
foot-hills  and  the  snow-peaks  of  the  San  Bernardino 
range  are  exceedingly  fine.  The  marvellous  beauty  of 
the  purple  and  deep  violet  of  the  giant  hills  at  sunset, 
with  spotless  snow,  lingers  in  the  memory. 

Perhaps  the  settlement  of  Redlands,  ten  miles  by 
rail  east  of  San  Bernardino,  is  as  good  an  illustration 
as  any  of  rapid  develoi)ment  and  great  promise.  It  is 
devoted  to  the  orange  and  the  grape.  As  late  as  1875 
much  of  it  was  Government  land,  considered  value- 
less. It  had  a  few  settlers,  but  the  town,  which  counts 
now  about  2000  people,  was  only  begun  in  1887.  It 
has  many  sohd  brick  edifices  and  many  pretty  cottages 
on  its  gentle  slopes  and  rounded  hills,  overlooked  by 
the  great  mountains.  The  view  fi'om  any  point  of 
vantage  of  orchards  and  vineyards  and  semi-tropical 
gardens,  with  the  wide  sky-line  of  noble  and  snow-clad 
hills,  is  exceedingly  attractive.  The  region  is  watered 
by  the  Santa  Ana  River  and  Mill  Creek,  but  the  main 
irrigating  streams,  which  make  every  hill-top  to  bloom 
with  vegetation,  come  fi*om  the  Bear  YaUey  Reservou\ 
On  a  hill  to  the  south  of  the  town  the  Smiley  Brothers, 
of  Catskill  fame,  are  building  fine  residences,  and  plant- 
ing then'  125  acres  with  fruit-trees  and  ^ines,  ever- 
greens, flowers,  and  semi -tropic  shrubbery  in  a  style 
of  landscape-gardening  that  in  three  years  at  the  fur- 
thest wiU  make  this  spot  one  of  the  few  gi'eat  show- 
places  of  the  country.  Behind  their  ridge  is  the  San 
Mateo  Caiion,  thi-ough  which  the  Southern  Pacific 
Railway  runs,  while  in  fi-ont  are  the  splendid  sloping 
plains,  valleys,  and  orange  groves,  and  the  great  sweep 
of  mountains  from  San  Jacinto  round  to  the  Sierra 


DETAILS   OF   THE   WONDERFUL  DEVELOPMENT.        119 

Madre  range.  It  is  almost  a  matcliless  prospect.  The 
climate  is  most  agreeable,  the  plantations  increase 
month  by  month,  and  thus  far  the  orange-trees  have 
not  been  visited  by  the  scale,  nor  the  \ines  by  any 
sickness.  Although  the  groves  are  still  young,  there 
were  shipped  from  Redlands  in  the  season  of  1889-90 
80  car-loads  of  oranges,  of  286  boxes  to  the  car,  at  a 
price  averaging  nearly  $1000  a  car.  That  season's 
planting  of  oranges  was  over  1200  acres.  It  had  over 
5000  acres  in  fruits,  of  which  nearly  3000  were  in 
peaches,  apricots,  grapes,  and  other  sorts  called  de- 
ciduous. 

Riverside  may  without  prejudice  be  regarded  as 
the  centre  of  the  orange  growth  and  trade.  The  rail- 
way shipments  of  oranges  from  Southern  California  in 
the  season  of  1890  aggregated  about  2400  car-loads,  or 
about  800,000  boxes,  of  oranges  (in  which  estimate  the 
lemons  are  included),  valued  at  about  $1,500,000.  Of 
this  shipment  more  than  haK  was  from  Riverside. 
This  has  been,  of  course,  greatly  stimulated  by  the  im- 
proved railroad  facilities,  among  them  the  shortening 
of  the  time  to  Chicago  by  the  Santa  Fe  route,  and  the 
running  of  special  fruit  trains.  Southern  California 
responds  like  magic  to  this  chance  to  send  her  fruits 
to  the  East,  and  the  area  planted  month  by  month  is 
something  enormous.  It  is  estimated  that  the  crop 
of  oranges  alone  in  1891  will  be  over  4500  car-loads. 
We  are  accustomed  to  discount  all  California  esti- 
mates, but  I  think  that  no  one  yet  has  comprehended 
the  amount  to  which  the  shipments  to  Eastern  mar- 
kets of  vegetables  and  fresh  and  canned  fruits  will 
reach  within  five  years.  I  base  my  prediction  upon 
some  observation  of  the  Eastern  demand  and  the  re- 


120 


OUR  ITALY. 


ports  of  fruit -dealers,  upon  what  I  saw  of  the  new 
plantmg  all  over  the  State  in  1890,  and  upon  the  sta- 
tistics of  increase.  Take  Riverside  as  an  example. 
In  1872  it  was  a  poor  sheep  ranch.  In  1880-81  it 
shipped  15  car-loads,  or  4290  boxes,  of  oranges;  the 
amount  yearly  increased,  until  in  1888-89  it  was  925 
car-loads,  or  263,879  boxes.  In  1890  it  rose  to  1253 
car-loads,  or  358,311  boxes ;  and  an  important  fact  is 
that  the  largest  shipment  was  in  April  (455  car-loads, 
or  130,226  boxes),  at  the  time  when  the  supply  from 
other  orange  regions  for  the  markets  East  had  nearly 
ceased. 

It  should  be  said,  also,  that  the  quality  of  the 
oranges  has  vastly  improved.  This  is  owing  to  better 
cultivation,  knowledge   of  proper  irrigation,  and  the 

adoption  of  the  best  va- 
rieties for  the  soil.  As 
different  sorts  of  or- 
anges mature  at  differ- 
ent seasons,  a  variety  is 
,  needed  to  give  edible 
fruit  in  each  month  from 
December  to  May  inclu- 
sive. In  February,  1887, 
I  could  not  find  an  or- 
ange of  the  first  class 
compared  with  the  best 
It  may  have  been  too  early 
but  I  believe  there  has  been 
a  marked  improvement  in  quahty.  In  May,  1890, 
we  found  delicious  oranges  almost  everywhere.  The 
seedless  Washington  and  Australian  navels  are  fa- 
vorites, especially  for  the  market,  on  account  of  their 


IRKIHATTNfi    AN    ORCHARD. 


fruit  in  other  regions, 
for  the  varieties  I  tried 


ORANGE   CULTUHK. 

PackiM-  Oranges-Navel  Orange-lrcL-  Six  Years  Old-Irrigating  an  Orange  Grove. 


DETAILS   OF   THE  WONDERFUL   DEVELOPMENT.         123 

great  size  and  fine  color.  When  in  perfection  they 
are  very  fine,  but  the  skin  is  thick  and  the  texture 
coarser  than  that  of  some  others.  The  best  orange 
I  happened  to  taste  was  a  Tahiti  seedhng  at  Monte- 
cito  (Santa  Barbara).  It  is  a  small  orange,  with  a 
thin  skin  and  a  compact,  sweet  pulp  that  leaves  lit- 
tle fibre.  It  resembles  the  famous  orange  of  Malta. 
But  there  are  many  excellent  varieties  —  the  Mediter- 
ranean sweet,  the  paper  rind  St.  Michael,  the  Maltese 
blood,  etc.  The  experiments  with  seedhngs  are  profit- 
able, and  will  give  ever  new  varieties.  I  noted  that 
the  ''grape  fruit,"  which  is  becoming  so  much  hked 
in  the  East,  is  not  appreciated  in  California. 

The  city  of  Riverside  occupies  an  area  of  some  five 
miles  by  three,  and  claims  to  have  6000  inhabitants ; 
the  centre  is  a  substantial  town  with  fine  school  and 
other  pubhc  buildings,  but  the  region  is  one  succession 
of  orange  groves  and  \ineyards,  of  comfortable  houses 
and  broad  avenues.  One  avenue  through  which  we 
drove  is  125  feet  wide  and  12  miles  long,  planted  in 
three  rows  with  palms,  magnohas,  the  GreviUea  rohusta 
(Australian  fern),  the  pepper,  and  the  eucalyptus,  and 
lined  all  the  way  by  splendid  orange  groves,  in  the 
midst  of  which  are  houses  and  grounds  with  semi- 
tropical  attractions.  Nothing  could  be  loveher  than 
such  a  scene  of  fruits  and  flowers,  with  the  back- 
ground of  purple  hills  and  snowy  peaks.  The  mount- 
ain views  are  superb.  Frost  is  a  rare  visitor.  Not 
in  fifteen  years  has  there  been  enough  to  affect  the 
orange.  There  is  httle  rain  after  March,  but  there  are 
fogs  and  dew-falls,  and  the  ocean  breeze  is  felt  daily. 
The  grape  grown  for  raisins  is  the  muscat,  and  this 
has  had  no  "sickness."    Vigilance  and  a  quarantine 


124  OUR  ITALY. 

have  also  kept  from  the  orange  the  scale  which  has 
been  so  annoying  in  some  other  localities.  The 
orange,  when  cared  for,  is  a  generous  bearer ;  some 
trees  produce  twenty  boxes  each,  and  there  are  areas 
of  twenty  acres  in  good  bearing  which  have  brought 
to  the  owner  as  much  as  $10,000  a  year. 

The  whole  region  of  the  Santa  Ana  and  San  Ga- 
briel valleys,  from  the  desert  on  the  east  to  Los  Ange- 
les, the  city  of  gardens,  is  a  surprise,  and  year  by  year 
an  increasing  wonder.  In  production  it  exhausts  the 
catalogue  of  fruits  and  flowers ;  its  scenery  is  varied 
by  fever  new  combinations  of  the  picturesque  and  the 
luxuriant ;  every  town  boasts  some  special  advantage 
in  climate,  soil,  water,  or  society ;  but  these  differences, 
many  of  them  visible  to  the  eye,  cannot  appear  in  any 
written  description.  The  traveller  may  prefer  the 
scenery  of  Pasadena,  or  that  of  Pomona,  or  of  River- 
side, but  the  same  words  in  regard  to  color,  fertility, 
combinations  of  orchards,  avenues,  hills,  must  appear 
in  the  description  of  each.  Ontario,  Pomona,  Puente, 
Alhambra — wherever  one  goes  there  is  the  same  won- 
der of  color  and  production. 

Pomona  is  a  pleasant  city  in  the  midst  of  fine 
orange  groves,  watered  abundantly  by  artesian -wells 
and  irrigating  ditches  from  a  mountain  reservoir.  A 
specimen  of  the  ancient  adobe  residence  is  on  the 
Meserve  plantation,  a  lovely  old  place,  with  its  gardens 
of  cherries,  strawberries,  olives,  and  oranges.  From 
the  top  of  San  Jose  hill  we  had  a  view  of  a  plain 
twenty-five  miles  by  fifty  in  extent,  dotted  with  culti- 
vation, surrounded  by  mountains — a  wonderful  pros- 
pect. Pomona,  like  its  sister  cities  in  this  region,  has 
a  regard  for  the  intellectual  side  of  life,  exhibited  in 


DETAILS   OF   THE  WONDEEFUL   DEVELOPMENT.         125 

good  school-houses  and  piibhc  hbraries.  In  the  hbra- 
ry  of  Pomona  is  what  may  be  regarded  as  the  tutelary 
deity  of  the  place — the  goddess  Pomona,  a  good  copy 
in  marble  of  the  famous  statue  in  the  Uffizi  Gallery, 
presented  to  the  city  by  the  Rev.  C.  F.  Loop.  This 
enterprising  citizen  is  making  valuable  experiments 
in  olive  culture,  raising  a  dozen  varieties  in  order  to 
ascertain  which  is  best  adapted  to  this  soil,  and  which 
will  make  the  best  return  in  oil  and  in  a  marketable 
product  of  cured  fi'uit  for  the  table. 

The  growth  of  the  ohve  is  to  be,  it  seems  to  me, 
one  of  the  leading  and  most  permanent  industries  of 
Southern  California.  It  will  give  us,  what  it  is  nearly 
impossible  to  buy  now,  i^ure  olive  oil,  in  place  of  the 
cotton-seed  and  lard  mixture  in  general  use.  It  is  a 
most  wholesome  and  palatable  article  of  food.  Those 
whose  chief  experience  of  the  ohve  is  the  large,  coarse, 
and  not  agreeable  Spanish  variety,  used  only  as  an  ap- 
petizer, know  little  of  the  value  of  the  best  varieties  as 
food,  nutritious  as  meat,  and  always  delicious.  Good 
bread  and  a  dish  of  pickled  olives  make  an  excellent 
meal.  The  sort  known  as  the  Mission  olive,  planted 
by  the  Franciscans  a  century  ago,  is  generally  grown 
now,  and  the  best  fruit  is  from  the  older  trees.  The 
most  successful  attempts  in  cultivating  the  olive  and 
putting  it  on  the  market  have  been  made  by  Mr.  F.  A. 
Kimball,  of  National  City,  and  Mr.  Ellwood  Cooper, 
of  Santa  Barbara.  The  experiments  have  gone  far 
enough  to  show  that  the  industry  is  very  remunera- 
tive. The  best  ohve  oil  I  have  ever  tasted  anywhere 
is  that  produced  from  the  Cooper  and  the  Kimball 
orchards ;  but  not  enough  is  produced  to  supply  the 
local  demand.     Mr.  Cooper  has  written  a  careful  trea- 


126 


OUR  ITALY. 


--T.: 


4-   t*''^ 


^^S^/j^fS-^     „ 


IN   A   FIET.D 
OF   GOLDEN    PUMPKINS. 


tise  on  olive  culture,  which  will  be  of  great  service  to 
all  growers.  The  art  of  pickling  is  not  yet  mastered, 
and  perhaps  some  other  variety  will  be  preferred  to 
the  old  Mission  for  the  table.  A  mature  olive  grove 
in  good  bearing  is  a  fortune.  I  feel  sure  that  within 
twenty-five  years  this  will  be  one  of  the  most  profit- 
able industries  of  California,  and  that  the  demand  for 
pure  oil  and  edible  fruit  in  the  United  States  will  drive 
out  the  adulterated  and  inferior  present  commercial 
products.  But  California  can  easily  ruin  its  reputa- 
tion by  adopting  the  European  systems  of  adultera- 
tion. 

We  drove  one  day  fi'om  Arcadia  Station  through 


DETAILS   OF   THE  WONDERFUL   DEYELOP^MENT.         127 

the  region  occupied  by  the  Baldwin  ^plantations,  an 
area  of  over  fifty  thousand  acres — a  happy  illustration 
of  what  industry  and  capital  can  do  in  the  way  of  va- 
riety of  productions,  especially  in  w^hat  are  called  the 
San  Anita  vineyards  and  orchards,  extending  south- 
ward from  the  foot-hills.  About  the  home  place  and 
in  many  sections  where  the  irrigating  streams  flow 
one  might  fancy  he  was  in  the  tropics,  so  abundant 
and  brilliant  are  the  flowers  and  exotic  plants.  There 
are  splendid  orchards  of  oranges,  almonds,  English 
walnuts,  lemons,  peaches,  apricots,  figs,  apples,  and 
olives,  with  grain  and  corn — in  short,  everything  that 
grows  in  garden  or  field.  The  ranch  is  famous  for  its 
brandies  and  wines  as  well  as  fruits.  We  hmched  at 
the  East  San  Gabriel  Hotel,  a  charming  place  with  a 
peaceful  view  from  the  wide  veranda  of  hve-oaks,  or- 
chards, vineyards,  and  the  noble  Sierra  Madre  range. 
The  Calif ornians  may  be  excused  for  using  the  term 
'  paradisiacal  about  such  scenes.  Elowers,  flowers  ev- 
erywhere, color  on  color,  and  the  song  of  the  mockmg- 
bird! 


CHAPTER  XII. 

HOW  THE   FEUIT   PEKILS  WEEE  MET.  —  FUETHEK   DETAILS 

OF   LOCALITIES. 

In  the  San  Gabriel  Yalley  and  elsewhere  I  saw  evi- 
dence of  the  perils  that  attend  the  culture  of  the  vine 
and  the  fruit-tree  in  all  other  countries,  and  from 
which  California  in  the  early  days  thought  it  was  ex- 
empt. Within  the  past  three  or  four  years  there  has 
prevailed  a  sickness  of  the  vine,  the  cause  of  which  is 
unknown,  and  for  which  no  remedy  has  been  discov- 
ered. No  blight  was  apparent,  but  the  ^dne  sickened 
and  failed.  The  disease  w^as  called  consumption  of 
the  vine.  I  saw  many  vineyards  subject  to  it,  and 
hundreds  of  acres  of  old  vines  had  been  rooted  up  as 
useless.  I  was  told  by  a  fruit -buyer  in  Los  Angeles 
that  he  thought  the  raisin  industry  below  Fresno  was 
ended  unless  new  planting  recovered  the  ^sdnes,  and 
that  the  great  wine  fields  were  about  "played  out." 
The  truth  I  believe  to  be  that  the  disease  is  confined 
to  the  vineyards  of  Old  Mission  grapes.  Whether 
these  had  attained  the  limit  of  their  active  life,  and 
sickened,  I  do  not  know.  The  trouble  for  a  time  was 
alarming;  but  new  plantings  of  other  varieties  of 
grapes  have  been  successful,  the  vineyards  look  health- 
ful, and  the  growlers  expect  no  further  difficulty.  The 
planting,  which  was  for  a  time  suspended,  has  been 
more  visforouslv  renewed. 


HOW  THE  FRUIT   PERILS  WERE   MET.  129 

The  insect  pests  attacking  the  orange  were  even 
more  serious,  and  in  1887-88,  though  httle  was  pub- 
lished about  it,  there  was  something  Uke  a  panic,  in 
the  fear  that  the  orange  and  lemon  culture  in  South- 
ern California  would  be  a  failure.  The  enemies  were 
the  black,  the  red,  and  the  white  scale.  The  latter, 
the  icenja  pto'cJiasi,  or  cottony  cushion  scale,  w^as  espe- 
cially loathsome  and  destructive ;  whole  orchards  were 
enfeebled,  and  no  way  w^as  discovered  of  staying  its 
progress,  which  threatened  also  the  ohve  and  every 
other  tree,  shrub,  and  flower.  Science  was  called  on 
to  discover  its  parasite.  This  was  found  to  be  the 
Australian  lady-bug  (vedoUa  cardinal  is),  and  in  1888-89 
quantities  of  this  insect  were  imported  and  spread 
throughout  Los  Angeles  County,  and  sent  to  Santa 
Barbara  and  other  afflicted  districts.  The  effect  was 
magical.  The  vedolia  attacked  the  cottony  scale  with 
intense  \dgor,  and  everywhere  killed  it.  The  orchards 
revived  as  if  they  had  been  recreated,  and  the  danger 
was  over.  The  enemies  of  the  black  and  the  red  scale 
have  not  yet  been  discovered,  but  they  probably  mil 
be.  Meantime  the  growers  have  recovered  courage, 
and  are  fertilizing  and  fumigating.  In  Santa  Ana  I 
found  that  the  red  scale  was  fought  successfully  by 
fumigating  the  trees.  The  operation  is  performed  at 
night  under  a  movable  tent,  which  covers  the  tree. 
The  cost  is  about  twenty  cents  a  tree.  One  lesson  of 
all  this  is  that  trees  must  be  fed  in  order  to  be  kept 
vigorous  to  resist  such  attacks,  and  that  fruit-raising, 
considering  the  number  of  enemies  that  all  fi'uits  have 
in  all  climates,  is  not  an  idle  occupation.  The  clean, 
handsome  English  walnut  is  about  the  only  tree  in 
the  State  that  thus  far  has  no  enemy. 

9 


130  OUK   ITAIiY. 

One  cannot  take  anywhere  else  a  more  exhila- 
rating, delightful  drive  than  about  the  rolling,  highly- 
cultivated,  many-villaed  Pasadena,  and  out  to  the  foot- 
hills and  the  Sierra  Madre  Villa.  He  is  constantly  ex- 
claiming at  the  varied  lovehness  of  the  scene — oranges, 
palms,  formal  gardens,  hedges  of  Monterey  cypress.  It 
is  very  Italy-like.  The  Sierra  Madre  furnishes  abun- 
dant water  for  all  the  valley,  and  the  swift  irrigating 
stream  from  Eaton  Canon  waters  the  Sierra  Madre 
Villa.  Among  the  peaks  above  it  rises  Mt.  Wilson, 
a  thousand  feet  above  the  plain,  the  site  selected  for 
the  Harvard  Observatory  with  its  40-inch  glass.  The 
clearness  of  the  air  at  this  elevation,  and  the  absence 
of  clouds  night  and  day  the  greater  portion  of  the 
year,  make  this  a  most  advantageous  position,  it  is 
said,  to  use  the  glass  in  dissolving  nebulae.  The  Sierra 
Madre  Villa,  once  the  most  favorite  resort  in  this  re- 
gion, was  closed.  In  its  sheltered  situation,  its  luxu- 
riant and  half -neglected  gardens,  its  wide  plantations 
and  irrigating  streams,  it  reminds  one  of  some  secu- 
larized monastery  on  the  promontory  of  Sorrento.  It 
only  needs  good  management  to  make  the  hotel  very 
attractive  and  especially  agreeable  in  the  months  of 
winter. 

Pasadena,  which  exhibits  everywhere  evidences  of 
wealth  and  culture,  and  claims  a  permanent  popula- 
tion of  12,000,  has  the  air  of  a  winter  resort ;  the  great 
Hotel  Raymond  is  closed  in  May,  the  boarding-houses 
w^ant  occupants,  the  shops  and  livery-stables  custom- 
ers, and  the  streets  lack  movement.  This  is  easily 
explained.  It  is  not  because  Pasadena  is  not  an  agree- 
vibie  summer  residence,  but  because  the  visitors  are 
drawn  there  in  the  winter  principally  to  escape  the 


HOW  THE   FRUIT   PERILS  WERE  MET.  133 

inclement  climate  of  the  North  and  East,  and  because 
special  efforts  have  been  made  for  their  entertainment 
in  the  winter.  We  found  the  atmosphere  delightful 
in  the  middle  of  May.  The  mean  summer  heat  is  67°, 
and  the  nights  are  always  cool.  The  hills  near  by  may 
be  resorted  to  with  the  certainty  of  finding  as  decided 
a  change  as  one  desires  in  the  summer  season.  I  must 
repeat  that  the  Southern  Cahfornia  summer  is  not  at 
all  understood  in  the  East.  The  statement  of  the  gen- 
eral equability  of  the  temperature  the  year  through 
must  be  insisted  on.  We  lunched  one  day  in  a  typical 
California  house,  in  the  midst  of  a  garden  of  fruits, 
flowers,  and  tropical  shrubs ;  in  a  house  that  might 
be  described  as  half  roses  and  half  tent,  for  added  to 
the  wooden  structure  were  rooms  of  canvas,  which  are 
used  as  sleeping  apartments  winter  and  summer. 

This  attractive  region,  so  lovely  in  its  cultivation, 
with  so  many  charming  drives,  offering  good  shooting 
on  the  plains  and  in  the  hills,  and  centrally  placed  for 
excursions,  is  only  eight  miles  from  the  busy  city  of 
Los  Angeles.  An  excellent  point  of  \^ew  of  the  coun- 
try is  from  the  graded  hill  on  which  stands  the  Ray- 
mond Hotel,  a  hill  isolated  but  easy  of  access,  which 
is  in  itself  a  mountain  of  bloom,  color,  and  fragrance. 
From  all  the  broad  verandas  and  from  every  window 
the  prospect  is  charming,  whether  the  eye  rests  upon 
cultivated  orchards  and  gardens  and  pretty  villas,  or 
upon  the  purple  foot-hills  and  the  snowy  ranges.  It 
enjoys  a  daily  ocean  breeze,  and  the  air  is  always  ex- 
hilarating. This  noble  hill  is  a  study  in  landscape- 
gardening.  It  is  a  mass  of  brilliant  color,  and  the  hos- 
pitality of  the  region  generally  to  foreign  growths  may 
be  estimated  by  the  trees  acclimated  on  these  slopes. 


134  OUB  ITALY. 

They  are  the  pepper,  eucalyptus,  pine,  Cyprus,  syca- 
more, red -wood,  ohve,  date  and  fan  palms,  banana, 
pomegranate,  guava,  Japanese  persmimon,  umbrella, 
maple,  elm,  locust,  English  walnut,  birch,  ailantus,  pop- 
lar, willow,  and  more  ornamental  shrubs  than  one  can 
well  name. 

I  can  indulge  in  few  locality  details  except  those 
which  are  illustrative  of  the  general  character  of  the 
country.  In  passing  into  Orange  County,  which  was 
recently  set  off  from  Los  Angeles,  we  come  into  a  re- 
gion of  less  "  fashion,"  but  one  that  for  many  reasons 
is  attractive  to  people  of  moderate  means  who  are 
content  with  independent  simphcity.  The  country 
about  the  thriving  village  of  Santa  Ana  is  very  rich, 
being  abundantly  watered  by  the  Santa  Ana  River  and 
by  artesian -wells.  The  town  is  nine  miles  from  the 
ocean.  On  the  ocean  side  the  land  is  mainly  agri- 
cultural ;  on  the  inland  side  it  is  specially  adapted  to 
fruit.  We  drove  about  it,  and  in  Tustin  City,  which 
has  many  pleasant  residences  and  a  vacant  "boom" 
hotel,  through  endless  plantations  of  oranges.  On  the 
road  towards  Los  Angeles  we  passed  large  herds  of 
cattle  and  sheep,  and  fine  groves  of  the  Enghsh  wal- 
nut, which  thrives  especially  well  in  this  soil  and  the 
neighborhood  of  the  sea.  There  is  comparatively  ht- 
tle  waste  land  in  this  valley  district,  as  one  may  see 
by  driving  through  the  country  about  Santa  Ana, 
Orange,  Anaheim,  Tustin  City,  etc.  Anaheim  is  a 
prosperous  German  colony.  It  was  here  that  Madame 
Modjeska  and  her  husband.  Count  Bozenta,  first  set- 
tled in  California.  They  own  and  occupy  now  a  pict- 
uresque ranch  in  the  Santiago  Canon  of  the  Santa 
Ana  range,  twenty-two  miles  fi'om  Santa  Ana.     This 


HOW  THE  FRUIT  PERILS  WERE  MET.  135 

is  one  of  the  richest  regions  in  the  State,  and  with 
its  fair  quota  of  working  population,  it  will  be  one  of 
the  most  productive. 

From  Newport,  on  the  coast,  or  from  San  Pedro, 
one  may  visit  the  island  of  Santa  Catalina.  Want  of 
time  prevented  our  going  there.  Sportsmen  enjoy 
there  the  exciting  pastime  of  hunting  the  wild  goat. 
From  the  photographs  I  saw,  and  from  all  I  heard  of 
it,  it  must  be  as  picturesque  a  resort  in  natural  beauty 
as  the  British  Channel  islands. 

Los  Angeles  is  the  metropolitan  centre  of  all  this 
region.  A  handsome,  sohd,  thriving  city,  envu'oned 
by  gardens,  gay  everywhere  with  flowers,  it  is  too  well 
known  to  require  any  description  from  me.  To  the 
traveller  from  the  East  it  will  always  be  a  surprise. 
Its  growth  has  been  phenomenal,  and  although  it  may 
not  equal  the  expectations  of  the  crazy  excitement  of 
1886-87,  50,000  people  is  a  great  assemblage  for  a  new 
city  which  numbered  only  about  11,000  in  1880.  It  of 
course  felt  the  subsidence  of  the  "  boom,"  but  while  I 
missed  the  feverish  crowds  of  1887, 1  was  struck  with 
its  substantial  progress  in  fine,  solid  buildings,  pave- 
ments, sewerage,  railways,  educational  facilities,  and 
ornamental  grounds.  It  has  a  secure  hold  on  the 
commerce  of  the  region.  The  assessment  roll  of  the 
city  increased  from  $7,627,632  in  1881  to  $44,871,073 
in  1889.  Its  bank  business,  public  buildings,  school- 
houses,  and  street  improvements  are  in  accord  with 
this  increase,  and  show  solid,  vigorous  growth.  It  is 
altogether  an  attractive  city,  whether  seen  on  a  drive 
through  its  well-planted  and  bright  avenues,  or  looked 
down  on  from  the  hills  which  are  climbed  by  the  cable 
roads.      A  curious  social  note  was  the  effect  of  the 


136 


OUK   ITALY. 


"  boom  "  excitement  upon  the  birth,  rate.  The  report 
of  children  under  the  age  of  one  year  was  in  1887, 
271  boy  babies  and  264  girl  babies ;  from  1887  to  1888 
there  were  only  176  boy  babies  and  162  girl  babies. 
The  return  at  the  end  of  1889  was  465  boy  babies,  and 
500  girl  babies. 

Although  Los  Angeles  County  still  produces  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  wine  and  brandy,  I  have  an  im- 


OLIVE-TREES    SIX  YEARS  OLD. 


pression  that  the  raising  of  raisins  will  supplant  wine- 
making  largely  in  Southern  California,  and  that  the 
principal  wine  producing  will  be  in  the  northern  por- 
tions of  the  State.    It  is  certain  that  the  best  quality  is 


HOW  THE   FRUIT  PEEILS  WERE  MET.  137 

grown  in  the  foot-hills.  The  reputation  of  "  California 
wines"  has  been  much  injured  by  placing  upon  the 
market  crude  juice  that  was  in  no  sense  wine.  Great 
improvement  has  been  made  in  the  past  three  to  five 
years,  not  only  in  the  vine  and  knowledge  of  the  soil 
adapted  to  it,  but  in  the  handling  and  the  curing  of 
the  wine.  One  can  now  find  without  much  difficulty 
excellent  table  wines — sound  claret,  good  white  Reis- 
ling,  and  sauterne.  None  of  these  wines  are  exactly 
hke  the  foreign  wines,  and  it  may  be  some  time  before 
the  taste  accustomed  to  foreign  wines  is  educated  to 
hke  them.  But  in  Eastern  markets  some  of  the  best 
brands  are  already  much  called  for,  and  I  think  it  only 
a  question  of  time  and  a  httle  more  experience  when 
the  best  California  ^sdnes  will  be  popular.  I  found  in 
the  San  Francisco  market  excellent  red  wines  at  $3.50 
the  case,  and  what  was  still  more  remarkable,  at  some 
of  the  best  hotels  sound,  agreeable  claret  at  from  fif- 
teen to  twenty  cents  the  pint  bottle. 

It  is  quite  unnecessary  to  emphasize  the  attrac- 
tions of  Santa  Barbara,  or  the  productiveness  of  the 
valleys  in  the  counties  of  Santa  Barbara  and  Ventura. 
There  is  no  more  poetic  region  on  the  continent  than 
the  bay  south  of  Point  Conception,  and  the  pen  and 
the  camera  have  made  the  world  tolerably  familiar 
with  it.  There  is  a  graciousness,  a  softness,  a  color  in 
the  sea,  the  canons,  the  mountains  there  that  dwell  in 
the  memory.  It  is  capable  of  inspiring  the  same  love 
that  the  Greek  colonists  felt  for  the  region  between 
the  bays  of  Salerno  and  Naples.  It  is  as  fruitful  as 
the  Italian  shores,  and  can  support  as  dense  a  popida- 
tion.  The  figures  that  have  been  given  as  to  produc- 
tiveness and  variety  of  productions  apply  to  it.     Hav- 


138  OUE  ITALY. 

ing  more  winter  rainfall  than  the  counties  south  of 
it,  agriculture  is  profitable  in  most  years.  Since  the 
railway  was  made  down  the  valley  of  the  Santa  Clara 
River  and  along  the  coast  to  Santa  Barbara,  a  great 
impulse  has  been  given  to  farming.  Orange  and  other 
fruit  orchards  have  increased.  Near  Buenaventura  I 
saw  hundreds  of  acres  of  hma  beans.  The  yield  is 
about  one  ton  to  the  acre.  With  good  farming  the 
valleys  yield  crops  of  com,  barley,  and  wheat  much 
above  the  average.  Still  it  is  a  fruit  region,  and  no 
variety  has  yet  been  tried  that  does  not  produce  very 
well  there.  The  rapid  growth  of  all  trees  has  enabled 
the  region  to  demonstrate  in  a  short  time  that  there 
is  scarcely  any  that  it  cannot  naturalize.  The  curi- 
ous growths  of  tropical  lands,  the  trees  of  aromatic 
and  medicinal  gums,  the  trees  of  exquisite  fohage  and 
wealth  of  fragrant  blossoms,  the  sturdy  forest  natives, 
and  the  bearers  of  edible  nuts  are  all  to  be  found 
in  the  gardens  and  by  the  road-side,  from  New  Eng- 
land, from  the  Southern  States,  from  Europe,  from 
North  and  South  Africa,  Southern  Asia,  China,  Japan, 
from  Austraha  and  New  Zealand  and  South  America. 
The  region  is  an  arboreal  and  botanical  garden  on  an 
immense  scale,  and  full  of  surprises.  The  floriculture 
is  even  more  astonishing.  Every  land  is  represented. 
The  profusion  and  vigor  are  as  wonderful  as  the  vari- 
ety. At  a  flower  show  in  Santa  Barbara  were  exhib- 
ited 160  varieties  of  roses  all  cut  from  one  garden  the 
same  morning.  The  open  garden  rivals  the  Eastern 
conservatory.  The  country  is  new  and  many  of  the 
conditions  of  life  may  be  primitive  and  rude,  but  it 
is  impossible  that  any  region  shall  not  be  beautiful, 
clothed  with  such  a  profusion  of  bloom  and  color. 


HOW  THE   FRUIT   PERILS   WERE   MET.  139 

I  have  spoken  of  the  rapid  growth.  The  practical 
advantage  of  this  as  to  fruit-trees  is  that  one  begins  to 
have  an  income  from  them  here  sooner  than  in  the 
East.  No  one  need  be  under  the  delusion  that  he  can 
hve  in  California  without  work,  or  thrive  without  in- 
cessant and  intelligent  industry,  but  the  distinction  of 
the  country  for  the  fruit-grower  is  the  rapidity  with 
which  trees  and  vines  mature  to  the  extent  of  being 
profitable.  But  nothing  thrives  without  care,  and 
kindly  as  the  chmate  is  to  the  weak,  it  cannot  be  too 
much  insisted  on  that  this  is  no  place  for  confirmed 
invalids  who  have  not  money  enough  to  live  ^dthout 
work. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
THE  ADVANCE   OF   CULTIVATION   SOUTHWARD. 

The  immense  county  of  San  Diego  is  on  the  thresh- 
old of  its  development.  It  has  comparatively  only 
spots  of  cultivation  here  and  there,  in  an  area  on 
the  western  slope  of  the  county  only,  that  Mr.  Van 
Dyke  estimates  to  contain  about  one  million  acres  of 
good  arable  land  for  farming  and  fruit-raising.  This 
mountainous  region  is  full  of  charming  valleys,  and 
hidden  among  the  hills  are  fruitful  nooks  capable  of 
sustaining  thriving  communities.  There  is  no  doubt 
about  the  salubrity  of  the  climate,  and  one  can  hter- 
ally  suit  himseK  as  to  temperature  by  choosing  his 
elevation.  The  traveller  by  rail  down  the  wild  Temec- 
ula  Canon  will  have  some  idea  of  the  picturesqueness 
of  the  country,  and,  as  he  descends  in  the  broadening 
valley,  of  the  beautiful  mountain  parks  of  live-oak  and 
clear  running  water,  and  of  the  richness  both  for  graz- 
ing and  grain  of  the  ranches  of  the  Santa  Margarita, 
Las  Flores,  and  Santa  Rosa.  Or  if  he  will  see  what  a 
few  years  of  vigorous  cultivation  w^ill  do,  he  may  visit 
Escondido,  on  the  river  of  that  name,  which  is  at  an 
elevation  of  less  than  a  thousand  feet,  and  fourteen 
miles  from  the  ocean.  This  is  only  one  of  many  set- 
tlements that  have  great  natural  beauty  and  thrifty 
industrial  Hfe.  In  that  region  are  numerous  attractive 
villages.     I  have  a  report  from  a  little  canon,  a  few 


THE   ADVANCE   OF   CULTIVATION   SOUTHWARD.         l-tl 


SEXTON  NURSERIES,  NEAR  SANTA  BARBARA. 


^^^^^  miles  north  of  Escondido,  where  a 
woman  with  an   invahd  husband 


settled  in  1883.  The  ground  was  thick- 
y/IWI^  ly  covered  with  brush,  and  its  only 
^    ^  product   was  rabbits   and  quails.     In 

1888  they  had  100  acres  cleared  and 
fenced,  mostly  devoted  to  orchard 
fruits  and  berries.  They  had  in  good 
bearing  over  1200  fruit-trees,  among 
them  200  oranges  and  283  figs,  which 
yielded  one  and  a  haK  tons  of  figs  a  week  during 
the.  bearing  season,  from  August  to  November.  The 
sprouts  of  the  peach-trees  grew  twelve  feet  in  1889. 
Of  course  such  a  httle  fruit  farm  as  this  is  the  result 


142  OUE  ITALY. 

of  seK-denial  and  hard  work,  but  I  am  sure  that  the 
experiment  in  this  region  need  not  be  exceptional. 

San  Diego  will  be  to  the  southern  part  of  the  State 
what  San  Francisco  is  to  the  northern.  Nature  seems 
to  have  arranged  for  this,  by  providing  a  magnificent 
harbor,  when  it  shut  off  the  southern  part  by  a  mount- 
ain range.  During  the  town -lot  lunacy  it  was  said 
that  San  Diego  could  not  grow  because  it  had  no  back 
country,  and  the  retort  was  that  it  needed  no  back 
country,  its  harbor  would  command  commerce.  The 
fallacy  of  this  assumption  lay  in  the  forgetfulness  of 
the  fact  that  the  profitable  and  pecuhar  exports  of 
Southern  California  must  go  East  by  rail,  and  reach  a 
market  in  the  shortest  possible  time,  and  that  the  in- 
habitants look  to  the  Pacific  for  comparatively  httle  of 
the  imports  they  need.  If  the  Isthmus  route  were 
opened  by  a  ship -canal,  San  Diego  would  doubtless 
have  a  great  share  of  the  Pacific  trade,  and  when  the 
population  of  that  part  of  the  State  is  large  enough  to 
demand  great  importations  from  the  islands  and  lands 
of  the  Pacific,  this  harbor  will  not  go  begging.  But 
in  its  present  development  the  entire  Pacific  trade  of 
Japan,  China,  and  the  islands,  gives  only  a  small  di^d- 
dend  each  to  the  competing  ports.  For  these  develop- 
ments this  fine  harbor  must  wait,  but  meantime  the 
wealth  and  prosperity  of  San  Diego  lie  at  its  doors.  A 
country  as  large  as  the  three  richest  New  England 
States,  with  enormous  wealth  of  mineral  and  stone  in 
its  mountains,  with  one  of  the  finest  climates  in  the 
world,  with  a  million  acres  of  arable  land,  is  certainly 
capable  of  building  up  one  great  seaport  town.  These 
milhon  of  acres  on  the  western  slope  of  the  mountain 
ranges  of  the  country  are  geographically  tributary  to 


THE   ADVANCE   OF   CULTIVATION   SOUTHWARD.         143 

San  Diego,  and  almost  every  acre  by  its  products  is 
certain  to  attain  a  high  vahie. 

The  end  of  the  ridiculous  speculation  in  lots  of 
1887-88  was  not  so  disastrous  in  the  loss  of  money  in- 
vested, or  even  in  the  ruin  of  great  expectations  by  the 
collapse  of  fictitious  values,  as  in  the  stoppage  of  im- 
migi'ation.  The  country  has  been  ever  since  adjusting 
itself  to  a  normal  growth,  and  the  recovery  is  just  in 
proportion  to  the  arrival  of  settlers  who  come  to  work 
and  not  to  speculate.  I  had  heard  that  the  "  boom  " 
had  left  San  Diego  and  vicinity  the  "deadest"  region 
to  be  found  anywhere.  A  speculator  would  probably 
so  regard  it.  But  the  people  have  had  a  great  acces- 
sion of  common-sense.  The  expectation  of  attracting 
settlers  by  a  fictitious  show  has  subsided,  and  atten- 
tion is  directed  to  the  development  of  the  natural 
riches  of  the  country.  Since  the  boom  San  Diego  has 
perfected  a  splendid  system  of  drainage,  paved  its 
streets,  extended  its  railways,  built  up  the  business 
part  of  the  town  solidly  and  handsomely,  and  greatly 
improved  the  mesa  above  the  town.  In  all  essentials 
of  permanent  growth  it  is  much  better  in  appearance 
than  in  1887.  Business  is  better  organized,  and,  best  of 
all,  there  is  an  intelhgent  appreciation  of  the  agricult- 
ural resources  of  the  country.  It  is  discovered  that 
San  Diego  has  a  "back  country"  capable  of  producing 
great  wealth.  The  Chamber  of  Commerce  has  organ- 
ized a  permanent  exhibition  of  products.  It  is  as- 
sisted in  this  work  of  stimulation  by  competition  by  a 
"Ladies'  Annex,"  a  society  numbering  some  five  hun- 
dred ladies,  who  devote  themselves  not  to  aesthetic 
pursuits,  but  to  the  quickening  of  all  the  industries  of 
the  farm  and  the  garden,  and  all  public  improvements. 


iU 


OUR  ITALY. 


To  the  mere  traveller  who  devotes  only  a  couple  of 
weeks  to  an  examination  of  this  region  it  is  evident 
that  the  spirit  of  industry  is  in  the  ascendant,  and  the 
result  is  a  most  gratifying  increase  in  orchards  and 
vineyards,  and  the  storage  and  distribution  of  water 
for  irrigation.  The  region  is  unsurpassed  for  the  pro- 
duction of  the  orange,  the  lemon,  the  raisin-grape,  the 
fig,  and  the  ohve.  The  great  reservoir  of  the  Cuy- 
amaca,  which  supplies  San  Diego,  sends  its  flume 
around  the  fertile  valley  of  El  Cajon  (which  has 
already  a  great  reputation  for  its  raisins),  and  this  has 


become  a  garden,  the 
land  rising  in  value 
every  year.  The  re- 
gion of  National  City 
and  Chula  Vista  is 
supphed  by  the  res- 
ervoir made  by  the 
great    Sweetwater 

Dam — a  marvel  of  engineering  skill — and  is  not  only 
most  productive  in  fruit,  but  is  attractive  by  pretty 


SWEETWATER  DAM. 


THE  ADVANCE   OF   CULTIVATION  SOUTHWARD.         145 

villas  and  most  sightly  and  agreeable  homes.  It  is  an 
unanswerable  reply  to  the  inquiry  if  this  region  was 
not  killed  by  the  boom  that  all  the  arable  land,  except 
that  staked  out  foi'  fancy  city  prices,  has  steadily  risen 
in  value.  This  is  true  of  all  the  bay  region  down 
through  Otay  (where  a  promising  watch  factory  is  es- 
tabhshed)  to  the  border  at  Tia  Juana.  The  rate  of  set- 
tlement in  the  county  outside  of  the  cities  and  towns 
has  been  greater  since  the  boom  than  before — a  most 
healthful  indication  for  the  future.  According  to  the 
school  census  of  1889,  Mr.  Van  Dyke  estimates  a  per- 
manent growth  of  nearly  50,000  people  in  the  county 
in  four  years.  Half  of  these  are  well  distributed  in 
small  settlements  which  have  the  advantages  of  roads, 
mails,  and  school -houses,  and  which  offer  to  settlers 
who  wish  to  work  adjacent  unimproved  land  at  prices 
which  experience  shows  are  still  moderate. 
10 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
A  LAOT)   OF  AGREEABLE   HOIVIES. 

In  this  imperfect  conspectus  of  a  vast  territory  I 
should  be  sorry  to  say  anything  that  can  raise  false 
expectations.  Our  country  is  very  big;  and  though 
scarcely  any  part  of  it  has  not  some  advantages,  and 
notwithstanding  the  census  figures  of  our  population, 
it  will  be  a  long  time  before  our  vast  territory  will  fill 
up.  California  must  wait  with  the  rest ;  but  it  seems 
to  me  to  have  a  great  future.  Its  position  in  the 
Union  with  regard  to  its  peculiar  productions  is  unique. 
It  can  and  will  supply  us  with  much  that  we  now  im- 
port, and  labor  and  capital  sooner  or  later  will  find 
their  profit  in  meeting  the  growing  demand  for  Cah- 
fornia  products. 

There  are  many  people  in  the  United  States  who 
could  prolong  life  by  moving  to  Southern  California ; 
there  are  many  who  would  find  hf  e  easier  there  by  rea- 
son of  the  climate,  and  because  out-door  labor  is  more 
agreeable  there  the  year  through ;  many  who  have  to 
fight  the  weather  and  a  niggardly  soil  for  existence 
could  there  have  pretty  little  homes  with  less  expense 
of  money  and  labor.  It  is  well  that  people  for  whom 
this  is  true  should  know  it.  It  need  not  influence 
those  who  are  already  weU  placed  to  try  the  fortune 
of  a  distant  country  and  new  associations. 

I  need  not  emphasize,  the  disadvantage  in  regard  to 


A  LAND   OF  AGREEABLE   HOMES.  147 

beauty  of  a  land  that  can  for  half  the  year  only  keep 
a  vernal  appearance  by  uTigation ;  but  to  eyes  accus- 
tomed to  it  there  is  something  pleasing  in  the  con- 
trast of  the  green  valleys  with,  the  brown  and  gold  and 
red  of  the  hills.  The  picture  in  my  mind  for  the  fut- 
ure of  the  Land  of  the  Sun,  of  the  mountains,  of  the 
sea — which  is  only  an  enlargement  of  the  pictm^e  of 
the  present — is  one  of  great  beauty.  The  rapid  growth 
of  fruit  and  ornamental  trees  and  the  profusion  of  flow- 
ers render  easy  the  making  of  a  lovely  home,  however 
humble  it  may  be.  The  nature  of  the  industries — re- 
quiring careful  attention  to  a  small  piece  of  ground — 
points  to  small  holdings  as  a  rule.  The  picture  I  see 
is  of  a  land  of  small  farms  and  gardens,  highly  culti- 
vated, in  all  the  valleys  and  on  the  foot-hills ;  a  land, 
therefore,  of  luxuriance  and  great  productiveness  and 
agreeable  homes.  I  see  everywhere  the  gardens,  the 
vineyards,  the  orchards,  with  the  various  gi'eens  of  the 
olive,  the  fig,  and  the  orange.  It  is  always  picturesque, 
because  the  country  is  broken  and  even  rugged ;  it  is 
always  interesting,  because  of  the  contrast  with  the 
mountains  and  the  desert ;  it  has  the  color  that  makes 
Southern  Italy  so  poetic.  It  is  the  fairest  field  for  the 
experiment  of  a  contented  community,  without  any 
poverty  and  without  excessive  wealth. 


CHAPTER  XY. 

SOME  WONDERS  BY  THE  WAY. — YOSEMITE. — ^MARIPOSA 
TREES. — MONTEREY. 

I  WENT  to  it  with  reluctance.  I  shrink  from  at- 
tempting to  say  anything  about  it.  If  you  knew  that 
there  was  one  spot  on  the  earth  where  Nature  kept  her 
secret  of  secrets,  the  key  to  the  action  of  her  most 
gigantic  and  patient  forces  through  the  long  eras,  the 
marvel  of  constructive  and  destructive  energy,  in  feat- 
ures of  subhmity  made  possible  to  mental  endurance 
by  the  most  exquisite  devices  of  painting  and  sculpt- 
ure, the  wonder  which  is  without  parallel  or  compari- 
son, would  you  not  hesitate  to  approach  if?  Would 
you  not  wander  and  delay  mth  this  and  that  wonder, 
and  this  and  that  beauty  and  nobility  of  scenery,  put- 
ting off  the  day  when  the  imagination,  which  is  our 
highest  gift,  must  be  extinguished  by  the  reality? 
The  mind  has  this  judicious  timidity.  Do  we  not 
loiter  in  the  avenue  of  the  temple,  dall^dng  with  the 
vista  of  giant  plane-trees  and  statues,  and  noting  the 
carving  and  the  color,  mentally  shrinking  from  the 
moment  when  the  full  glory  shall  burst  upon  us? 
We  turn  and  look  when  we  are  near  a  summit,  we 
pick  a  flower,  we  note  the  shape  of  the  clouds,  the 
passing  breeze,  before  we  take  the  last  step  that  shall 
reveal  to  us  the  vast  panorama  of  mountains  and 
valleys. 


SOME  WONDEKS  BY   THE  WAY.  149 

I  cannot  bring  myself  to  any  description  of  the 
Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado  by  any  other  route, 
mental  or  physical,  than  that  by  which  we  reached 
it,  by  the  way  of  such  beauty  as  Monterey,  such  a 
wonder  as  the  Yosemite,  and  the  infinite  and  pictu- 
resque deserts  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  I  think 
the  mind  needs  the  training  in  the  desert  scenery  to 
enable  it  to  gi'asp  the  unique  sublimity  of  the  Grand 
Canon. 

The  road  to  the  Yosemite,  after  leaving  the  branch 
of  the  Southern  Pacific  at  Raymond,  is  an  unnecessa- 
rily fatiguing  one.  The  journey  by  stage — sixty -five 
miles — is  accomphshed  in  less  than  two  days — thirty- 
nine  miles  the  first  day,  and  twenty -six  the  second. 
The  driving  is  necessarily  slow,  because  two  mountain 
ridges  have  to  be  surmounted,  at  an  elevation  each  of 
about  6500  feet.  The  road  is  not  a  "  road  "  at  all  as 
the  term  is  understood  in  Switzerland,  Spain,  or  in 
any  highly  civilized  region — that  is,  a  graded,  smooth, 
hard,  and  sufficiently  broad  track.  It  is  a  makeshift 
highway,  generally  narrow  (often  too  narrow  for  two 
teams  to  pass),  cast  up  with  loose  material,  or  exca- 
vated on  the  slopes  with  frequent  short  curves  and 
double  curves.  Like  all  mountain  roads  which  skirt 
precipices,  it  may  seem  "pokerish,"  but  it  is  safe 
enough  if  the  drivers  are  skilful  and  careful  (all  the 
drivers  on  this  route  are  not  only  excellent,  but  ex- 
ceedingly civil  as  well),  and  there  is  no  break  in  wag- 
on or  harness.  At  the  season  this  trip  is  made  the 
weather  is  apt  to  be  warm,  but  this  would  not  matter 
so  much  if  the  road  were  not  intolerably  dusty.  Over 
a  great  part  of  the  way  the  dust  rises  in  clouds  and 
is  stifling.      On  a  well -engineered  road,  with  a  good 


150  OUR  ITALY. 

road-bed,  the  time  of  passage  migM  not  be  shortened, 
but  the  journey  would  be  made  with  positive  comfort 
and  enjoyment,  for  though  there  is  a  certain  monot- 
ony in  the  scenery,  there  is  the  wild  freshness  of  nat- 
ure, now  and  then  an  extensive  prospect,  a  sight  of 
the  snow -clad  Nevadas,  and  vast  stretches  of  wood- 
land; and  a  part  of  the  way  the  forests  are  magnifi- 
cent, especially  the  stupendous  growth  of  the  sugar- 
pine.  These  noble  forests  are  now  protected  by  their 
inaccessibility. 

From  1855  to  1864,  nine  years,  the  Yosemite  had 
653  visitors;  in  1864  there  were  147.  The  number 
increased  steadily  till  1869,  the  year  the  overland  rail- 
road was  completed,  when  it  jumped  to  1122.  Be- 
tween 4000  and  5000  persons  visit  it  now  each  year. 
The  number  would  be  enormously  increased  if  it  could 
be  reached  by  rail,  and  doubtless  a  road  will  be  built 
to  the  valley  in  the  near  future,  perhaps  up  the 
Merced  River.  I  beheve  that  the  pilgrims  who  used 
to  go  to  the  Yosemite  on  foot  or  on  horseback  regret 
the  building  of  the  stage  road,  the  enjoyment  of  the 
wonderful  valley  being  somehow  cheapened  by  the 
comparative  ease  of  reaching  it.  It  is  feared  that  a 
railway  would  still  further  cheapen,  if  it  did  not  vul- 
garize it,  and  that  passengers  by  train  would  miss  the 
mountain  scenery,  the  splendid  forests,  the  surprises 
of  the  way  (hke  the  first  view  of  the  valley  from 
Inspiration  Point),  and  that  the  Mariposa  big  trees 
would  be  farther  off  the  route  than  they  are  now. 
The  traveller  sees  them  now  by  diiving  eight  miles 
from  Wawona,  the  end  of  the  first  day's  staging.  But 
the  romance  for  the  few  there  is  in  staging  will  have 
to  give  way  to  the  greater  comfort  of  the  many  by 


THE  YOSEMITE  DOME. 


SOME   WONDERS  BY   THE  WAY.  153 

rail.  The  railway  will  do  no  more  injury  to  the  Yo- 
semite  than  it  has  done  to  Niagara,  and,  in  fact,  will 
be  the  means  of  immensely  increasing  the  comfort  of 
the  visitor's  stay  there,  besides  enabhng  tens  of  thou- 
sands of  people  to  see  it  who  cannot  stand  the  fatigue 
of  the  stage  ride  over  the  present  road.  The  Yosemite 
will  remain  as  it  is.  The  simphcity  of  its  grand  feat- 
ures is  unassailable  so  long  as  the  Government  pro- 
tects the  forests  that  smTound  it  and  the  streams  that 
pour  into  it.  The  visitor  who  goes  there  by  rail  will 
find  plenty  of  adventure  for  days  and  weeks  in  follow- 
ing the  mountain  trails,  ascending  to  the  great  points 
of  view,  exploring  the  canons,  or  climbing  so  as  to 
command  the  vast  stretch  of  the  snowy  Sierras.  Or, 
if  he  is  not  inchned  to  adventure,  the  valley  itself  will 
satisfy  his  highest  imaginative  flights  of  the  subhme 
in  rock  masses  and  perpendicular  ledges,  and  his  sense 
of  beauty  in  the  graceful  water-falls,  rainbow  colors, 
and  exquisite  lines  of  domes  and  pinnacles.  It  is  in 
the  grouping  of  objects  of  subhmity  and  beauty  that 
the  Yosemite  excels.  The  narrow  valley,  with  its 
gigantic  walls,  which  vary  in  every  change  of  the 
point  of  view,  lends  itself  to  the  most  astonishing 
scenic  effects,  and  these  the  photograph  has  repro- 
duced, so  that  the  world  is  familiar  with  the  striking 
features  of  the  valley,  and  has  a  tolerably  correct  idea 
of  the  sublimity  of  some  of  these  features.  Wliat  the 
photograph  cannot  do  is  to  give  an  impression  of  the 
unique  grouping,  of  the  majesty,  and  at  times  crush- 
ing weight  upon  the  mind  of  the  forms  and  masses, 
of  the  atmospheric  splendor  and  illusion,  and  of  the 
total  value  of  such  an  assemblage  of  wonders.  The 
level  surface  of  the  peaceful,  park-like  valley  has  much 


154  OUE   ITALY. 

to  do  with  the  impression.  The  effect  of  El  Capitan, 
seen  across  a  meadow  and  rising  from  a  beautiful 
park,  is  much  greater  than  if  it  were  encountered  in 
a  savage  mountain  gorge.  The  traveller  may  have 
seen  elsewhere  greater  water -falls,  and  domes  and 
spires  of  rock  as  surprising,  but  he  has  nowhere  else 
seen  such  a  combination  as  this.  He  may  be  fortified 
against  surprise  by  the  photographs  he  has  seen  and 
the  reports  of  word  painters,  but  he  will  not  escape 
(say,  at  Inspiration  Point,  or  Artist  Point,  or  other 
lookouts),  a  quickening  of  the  pulse  and  an  elation 
which  is  physical  as  well  as  mental,  in  the  sight  of 
such  unexpected  subhmity  and  beauty.  And  famil- 
iarity will  scarcely  take  off  the  edge  of  his  delight,  so 
varied  are  the  effects  in  the  passing  hours  and  chang- 
ing hghts.  The  Rainbow  Fall,  when  water  is  abun- 
dant, is  exceedingly  impressive  as  well  as  beautiful. 
Seen  from  the  carriage  road,  pouring  out  of  the  sky 
overhead,  it  gives  a  sense  of  power,  and  at  the  proper 
hour  before  sunset,  when  the  vast  mass  of  leaping, 
foaming  water  is  shot  through  with  the  colors  of  the 
spectrum,  it  is  one  of  the  most  exquisite  sights  the 
world  can  offer;  the  elemental  forces  are  overwhelm- 
ing, but  the  lovehness  is  engaging.  One  turns  from 
this  to  the  noble  mass  of  El  Capitan  with  a  shock  of 
surprise,  however  often  it  may  have  been  seen.  This 
is  the  hour  also,  in  the  time  of  high -water,  to  see 
the  reflection  of  the  Yosemite  Falls.  As  a  spectacle 
it  is  infinitely  finer  than  anything  at  Mirror  Lake, 
and  is  unique  in  its  way.  To  behold  this  beautiful 
series  of  falls,  flowing  down  out  of  the  blue  sky  above, 
and  flowing  up  out  of  an  equally  blue  sky  in  the 
depths  of  the  earth,  is  a  sight  not  to  be  forgotten. 


SOME  WONDERS  BY  THE  WAY.  155 

And  when  the  observer  passes  from  these  displays  to 
the  sight  of  the  aerial  domes  in  the  upper  end  of  the 
valley,  new  wonders  opening  at  every  turn  of  the  for- 
est road,  his  excitement  has  little  chance  of  subsiding  : 
he  may  be  even  a  httle  oppressed.     The  valley,  so  ver- 


COAST   OF  MONTEREY. 


dant  and  friendly  with  grass  and  trees  and  flowers,  is 
so  narrow  compared  with  the  height  of  its  perpendic- 
ular guardian  walls,  and  this  httle  secluded  spot  is  so 
imprisoned  in  the  gigantic  mountains,  that  man  has  a 
feeling  of  helplessness  in  it.  This  powerlessness  in 
the  presence  of  elemental  forces  was  heightened  by 
the  deluge  of  water.  There  had  been  an  immense  fall 
of  snow  the  winter  before,  the  Merced  was  a  raging 
torrent,  overflowing  its  banks,  and  from  every  ledge 
poured  a  miniature  cataract. 

Noble  simplicity  is  the  key-note  to  the  scenery  of 
the  Yosemite,  and  this  is  enhanced  by  the  park -like 
appearance  of  the  floor  of  the  valley.  The  stems  of 
the  fine  trees  are  in  harmony  with  the  perpendicular 
lines,  and  their  fohage  adds  the  necessary  contrast  to 
the  gray  rock  masses.     In  order  to  preserve  these  for- 


156 


OUB  ITALY. 


est -trees,  the  iinderbrusli,  which  is  Hable  to  make  a 
conflagration  in  a  dry  season,  should  be  removed  gen- 
erally, and  the  view  of  the  gi*eat  features  be  left  unim- 
peded. The  minor  canons  and  the  trails  are,  of  course, 
left  as  much  as  possible  to  the  riot  of  vegetation.  The 
State  Commission,  which  labors  under  the  disadvan- 
tages of  getting  its  supphes  from  a  Legislature  that 
does  not  appreciate  the  value  of  the  Yosemite  to  Cah- 
fornia,  has  developed  the  trails  judiciously,  and  estab- 
lished a  model  trail  service.  The  Yosemite,  it  need 
not  be  said,  is  a  great  attraction  to  tourists  from  all 
parts  of  the  world;  it  is  the  interest  of  the  State, 
therefore,  to  increase  their  number  by  improving  the 


CYPRESS   POINT. 


facilities  for  reaching  it,  and  by  resolutely  preserving 
all  the  surrounding  region  from  ravage. 

This  is  as  true  of  the  Mariposa  big  tree  region  as 
of  the  valley.     Indeed,  more  care  is  needed  for  the 


SOSIE  WONDERS  BY  THE   WAY.  157 

trees  than  for  the  great  chasm,  for  man  cannot  per- 
manently injure  the  distinctive  features  of  the  latter, 
while  the  destruction  of  the  sequoias  will  be  an  irrepa- 
rable loss  to  the  State  and  to  the  world.  The  Sequoia 
gigantea  differs  in  leaf,  and  size  and  shape  of  cone,  from 


NEAR    SEAL    ROCK. 


the  great  Sequoia  semper  virens  on  the  coast  near  Santa 
Cruz ;  neither  can  be  spared.  The  Mariposa  trees,  scat- 
tered along  on  a  mountain  ridge  6500  feet  above  the 
sea,  do  not  easily  obtain  their  victory,  for  they  are  a 
part  of  a  magnificent  forest  of  other  growths,  among 
which  the  noble  sugar -pine  is  conspicuous  for  its 
enormous  size  and  graceful  vigor.  The  sequoias  dom- 
inate among  splendid  rivals  ouly  by  a  magnitude  that 
has  no  comparison  elsewhere  in  the  world.  I  think 
no  one  can  anticipate  the  effect  that  one  of  these  mon- 
archs  will  have  upon  him.  He  has  read  that  a  coach 
and  six  can  drive  through  one  of  the  trees  that  is 


158  OUE  ITALY. 

standing;  that  another  is  thirty- three  feet  in  diam- 
eter, and  that  its  vast  stem,  350  feet  high,  is  crowned 
with  a  mass  of  fohage  that  seems  to  brush  against 
the  sky.  He  might  be  prepared  for  a  tower  100  feet  in 
circumference,  and  even  400  feet  high,  standing  upon 
a  level  plain ;  but  this  living  growth  is  quite  another 
affair.  Each  tree  is  an  individual,  and  has  a  personal 
character.  No  man  can  stand  in  the  presence  of  one 
of  these  giants  without  a  new  sense  of  the  age  of  the 
world  and  the  insignificant  span  of  one  human  hfe; 
but  he  is  also  overpowered  by  a  sense  of  some  gigantic 
personality.  It  does  not  reheve  him  to  think  of  this 
as  the  Methuselah  of  trees,  or  to  call  it  by  the  name 
of  some  great  poet  or  captain.  The  awe  the  tree  in- 
spires is  of  itself.  As  one  hes  and  looks  up  at  the 
enormous  bulk,  it  seems  not  so  much  the  bulk,  so 
lightly  is  it  carried,  as  the  spirit  of  the  tree — the 
elastic  vigor,  the  patience,  the  endurance  of  storm 
and  change,  the  confident  might,  and  the  soaring,  al- 
most contemptuous  pride,  that  overwhelm  the  puny 
spectator.  It  is  just  because  man  can  measure  him- 
self, his  httleness,  his  brevity  of  existence,  with  this 
growth  out  of  the  earth,  that  he  is  more  personally 
impressed  by  it  than  he  might  be  by  the  mere  vari- 
ation in  the  contour  of  the  globe  which  is  called  a 
mountain.  The  imagination  makes  a  plausible  effort 
to  comprehend  it,  and  is  foiled.  No ;  clearly  it  is  not 
mere  size  that  impresses  one;  it  is  the  dignity,  the 
character  in  the  tree,  the  authority  and  power  of  an- 
tiquity. Side  by  side  of  these  venerable  forms  are 
young  sequoias,  great  trees  themselves,  that  have  only 
just  begun  their  millennial  career — trees  that  wiU,  if 
spared,  perpetuate  to  remote  ages  this  race  of  giants, 


SO^NIE   WONDERS   BY   THE   WAY.  IGl 

and  in  two  to  four  thousand  years  from  now  take  the 
place  of  their  great-grandfathers,  who  are  sinking  un- 
der the  weight  of  years,  and  one  by  one  measuring 
their  length  on  the  earth. 

The  transition  from  the  subhme  to  the  exquisitely 
lovely  in  nature  can  nowhere  else  be  made  with  more 
celerity  than  from  the  Sierras  to  the  coast  at  Monte- 
rey; California  abounds  in  such  contrasts  and  sur- 
prises. After  the  great  stirring  of  the  emotions  by  the 
Yosemite  and  the  Mariposa,  the  Hotel  del  Monte  Park 
and  vicinity  offer  repose,  and  make  an  appeal  to  the 
sense  of  beauty  and  refinement.  Yet  even  here  some- 
thing unique  is  again  encountered.  I  do  not  refer  to 
the  extraordinary  beauty  of  the  giant  live-oaks  and 
the  landscape-gardening  about  the  hotel,  which  have 
made  Monterey  famous  the  world  over,  but  to  the  sea- 
beach  drive  of  sixteen  miles,  which  can  scarcely  be 
rivalled  elsewhere  either  for  marine  loveliness  or  vari- 
ety of  coast  scenery.  It  has  points  like  the  ocean 
drive  at  Newport,  but  is  altogether  on  a  grander  scale, 
and  show^s  a  more  poetic  union  of  shore  and  sea ;  be- 
sides, it  offers  the  curious  and  fascinating  spectacles 
of  the  rocks  inhabited  by  the  sea -lions,  and  the  Cy- 
press Point.  These  huge,  uncouth  creatures  can  be 
seen  elsewhere,  but  probably  nowhere  else  on  this 
coast  are  they  massed  in  greater  numbers.  The  trees 
of  Cypress  Point  are  unique,  this  species  of  cypress 
having  been  found  nowhere  else.  The  long,  never- 
ceasing  swtII  of  the  Pacific  incessantly  flows  up  the 
many  crescent  sand  beaches,  casting  up  shells  of  brill- 
iant hues,  sea-w^eed,  and  kelp,  which  seems  instinct 
with  animal  life,  and  flotsam  from  the  far-off  islands. 
But  the  rocks  that  he  off  the  shore,  and  the  jagged 

11 


162  OUR  ITALY. 

points  that  project  in  fanciful  forms,  break  the  even 
great  swell,  and  send  the  waters,  churned  into  spray 
and  foam,  into  the  air  with  a  thousand  hues  in  the 
sun.  The  shock  of  these  sharp  collisions  mingles 
with  the  heavy  ocean  boom.  Cypress  Point  is  one 
of  the  most  conspicuous  of  these  projections,  and  its 
strange  trees  creep  out  upon  the  ragged  ledges  almost 
to  the  water's  edge.  These  cypresses  are  quite  as  in- 
stinct with  indi\ddual  hfe  and  quite  as  fantastic  as 
any  that  Dore  drew  for  his  "  Inferno."  They  are  as 
gnarled  and  twisted  as  ohve- trees  two  centuries  old, 
but  their  attitudes  seem  not  only  to  show  struggle 
with  the  elements,  but  agony  in  that  struggle.  The 
agony  may  be  that  of  torture  in  the  tempest,  or  of 
some  fabled  creatures  fleeing  and  pursued,  stretching 
out  their  long  arms  in  terror,  and  fixed  in  that  ^^ith- 
ing  fear.  They  are  creatures  of  the  sea  quite  as  much 
as  of  the  land,  and  they  give  to  this  lovely  coast  a 
strange  charm  and  fascination. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
FASCINATIONS   OF   THE  DESERT. — THE  LAGUNA  PUEBLO. 

The  traveller  to  California  by  the  Santa  Fe  route 
comes  into  the  arid  regions  gradually,  and  finds  each 
day  a  variety  of  objects  of  interest  that  upsets  his 
conception  of  a  monotonous  desert  land.  If  he  chooses 
to  break  the  continental  journey  midway,  he  can  turn 
aside  at  Las  Yegas  to  the  Hot  Springs.  Here,  at  the 
head  of  a  picturesque  valley,  is  the  Montezuma  Ho- 
tel, a  luxurious  and  handsome  house,  6767  feet  above 
sea-level,  a  great  surprise  in  the  midst  of  the  broken 
and  somewhat  savage  New  Mexican  scenery.  The 
low  hills  covered  with  pines  and  pihons,  the  romantic 
glens,  and  the  wide  views  from  the  elevations  about 
the  hotel,  make  it  an  attractive  place ;  and  a  great 
deal  has  been  done,  in  the  erection  of  bath-houses, 
ornamental  gardening,  and  the  grading  of  roads  and 
walks,  to  make  it  a  comfortable  place.  The  latitude 
and  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  insure  for  the  trav- 
eller from  the  North  in  our  winter  an  agreeable  recep- 
tion, and  the  elevation  makes  the  spot  in  the  summer 
a  desirable  resort  from  Southern  heat.  It  is  a  sanita- 
rium as  well  as  a  pleasure  resort.  The  Hot  Springs 
have  much  the  same  character  as  the  Tophtz  waters  in 
Bohemia,  and  the  saturated  earth — the  Mutterlager — 
furnishes  the  curative  "mud  baths"  which  are  enjoyed 
at  Marienbad  and  Carlsbad.    The  union  of  the  climate, 


164 


OUE   ITALY. 


which  is  so  favorable  in  diseases  of  the  respiratory 
organs,  with  the  waters,  which  do  so  much  for  rheu- 
matic sufferers,  gives  a  distinction  to  Las  Yegas  Hot 
Springs.     This  New  Mexican  air — there  is  none  purer 
on  the  globe — is  an  enemy  to  hay-fever  and  malarial 
diseases.      It  was  a  wise  enterprise 
to  provide  that  those  who  wish  to 
try  its  efficacy  can 
do  so  at  the  Monte-  ,  "^%^ 

zuma  without  giv-      ^\f^^  ^ 


CHURCH   AT   LAGUNA. 


ing  up  any  of  the  com- 
forts of  civihzed  life. 
It  is  difficult  to 
explain  to  one  who 
has  not  seen  it,  or  will 
not  put  himself  in 
the  leisurely  frame  of 
mind  to  enjoy  it,  the  charms  of  the  desert  of  the  high 
plateaus  of  New  Mexico  and  Arizona.  Its  arid  charac- 
ter is  not  so  impressive  as  its  ancientness;  and  the  part 
which  interests  us  is  not  only  the  procession  of  the 
long  geologic  eras,  \dsible  in  the  extinct  volcanoes,  the 


FASCINATIONS   OF   THE  DESERT.  165 

barrancas,  the  painted  buttes,  the  petrified  forests,  hut 
as  well  iu  the  evidences  of  civilizations  gone  hy,  or  the 
remains  of  them  surviving  in  our  day — the  cliff  dwell- 
ings, the  ruins  of  cities  that  were  thriving  when  Co- 
ronado  sent  his  lieutenants  through  the  region  three 
centuries  ago,  and  the  present  residences  of  the  Pue- 
blo Indians,  either  villages  perched  upon  an  almost  in- 
accessible rock  like  Acamo,  or  clusters  of  adobe  dwell- 
ings like  Isleta  and  Laguna.  The  Pueblo  Indians,  of 
whom  the  Zuhis  are  a  tribe,  have  been  dwellers  in  vil- 
lages and  cultivators  of  the  soil  and  of  the  arts  of 
peace  immemorially,  a  gentle,  amiable  race.  It  is  in- 
deed such  a  race  as  one  would  expect  to  find  in  the 
land  of  the  sun  and  the  cactus.  Their  manners  and 
their  arts  attest  their  antiquity  and  a  long  refinement 
in  fixed  dwelhngs  and  occupations.  The  whole  region 
is  a  most  interesting  field  for  the  antiquarian. 

We  stopped  one  day  at  Laguna,  which  is  on  the 
Santa  Fe  line  west  of  Isleta,  another  Indian  pueblo 
at  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific  junction,  where  the  road 
crosses  the  Rio  Grande  del  Norte  west  of  Albuquer- 
que. Near  Laguna  a  little  stream  called  the  Rio  Puer- 
co  flows  southward  and  joins  the  Rio  Grande.  There 
is  verdure  along  these  streams,  and  gardens  and  fruit 
orchards  repay  the  rude  irrigation.  In  spite  of  these 
watercourses  the  aspect  of  the  landscape  is  wild  and 
desert-like — low  barren  hills  and  ragged  ledges,  wide 
sweeps  of  sand  and  dry  gray  bushes,  with  mountains 
and  long  lines  of  horizontal  ledges  in  the  distance. 
Laguna  is  built  upon  a  rounded  elevation  of  rock. 
Its  appearance  is  exactly  that  of  a  Syi'ian  callage,  the 
same  cluster  of  little,  square,  flat-roofed  houses  in  ter- 
races, the  same  broT\ai  color,  and  under  the  same  pale 


166  OUK   ITALY. 

blue  sky.  And  the  resemblance  was  completed  by  the 
figures  of  the  women  on  the  roofs,  or  moving  down 
the  slope,  erect  and  supple,  carrying  on  the  head  a 
water  jar,  and  holding  together  by  one  hand  the  man- 
tle worn  hke  a  Spanish  rebozo.  The  village  is  irregu- 
larly built,  without  much  regard  to  streets  or  alleys, 
and  it  has  no  special  side  of  entrance  or  approach. 
Every  side  presents  a  blank  wall  of  adobe,  and  the  en- 
trance seems  quite  by  chance.  Yet  the  way  we  went 
over,  the  smooth  slope  was  worn  here  and  there  in 
channels  three  or  four  inches  deep,  as  if  by  the  pass- 
ing feet  of  many  generations.  The  only  semblance  of 
architectural  regularity  is  in  the  plaza,  not  perfectly 
square,  upon  which  some  of  the  houses  look,  and 
where  the  annual  dances  take  place.  The  houses 
have  the  effect  of  being  built  in  terraces  rising  one 
above  the  other,  but  it  is  hard  to  say  exactly  what  a 
house  is — whether  it  is  anything  more  than  one  room. 
You  can  reach  some  of  the  houses  only  by  aid  of  a 
ladder.  You  enter  others  from  the  street.  If  you  will 
go  farther  you  must  chmb  a  ladder  which  brings  you 
to  the  roof  that  is  used  as  the  sitting-room  or  door- 
yard  of  the  next  room.  From  tliis  room  you  may  still 
ascend  to  others,  or  you  may  pass  through  low  and 
small  door-ways  to  other  apartments.  It  is  all  hap- 
hazard, but  exceedingly  picturesque.  You  may  find 
some  of  the  family  in  every  room,  or  they  may  be 
gathered,  women  and  babies,  on  a  roof  which  is  pro- 
tected by  a  parapet.  At  the  time  of  our  \dsit  the  men 
were  all  away  at  work  in  their  fields.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  houses  are  only  sun-dried  bricks,  and  the  vil- 
lage is  without  water  or  street  commissioners,  I  was 
struck  by  the  universal  cleanliness.     There  was  no  ref- 


FASCINATIONS   OF   THE   DESERT. 


167 


TERRACED   HOUSES,   PUEBLO   OF   LAG  UNA. 


use  in  the  corners  or  alleys,  no  odors,  and  many  of  the 
rooms  were  patterns  of  neatness.  To  be  sure,  an  old 
woman  here  and  there  kept  her  hens  in  an  adjoining 
apartment  above  her  own,  and  there  was  the  litter  of 
children  and  of  rather  careless  house  -  keeping.  But, 
taken  altogether,  the  town  is  an  example  for  some 


168  OUR   ITALY. 

more   civilized,  whose  inhabitants  wash   oftener  and 
dress  better  than  these  Indians. 

We  were  put  on  friendly  terms  with  the  whole 
settlement  through  three  or  four  young  maidens  who 
had  been  at  the  Carlisle  school,  and  spoke  English 
very  prettily.  They  were  of  the  ages  of  fifteen  and 
sixteen,  and  some  of  them  had  been  five  years  away. 
They  came  back,  so  far  as  I  could  learn,  gladly  to  their 
own  people  and  to  the  old  ways.  They  had  resumed 
the  Indian  dress,  which  is  much  more  becoming  to 
them,  as  I  think  they  know,  than  that  which  had 
been  imposed  upon  them.  I  saw  no  books.  They  do 
not  read  any  now,  and  they  appear  to  be  perfectly 
content  with  the  idle  drudgery  of  their  semi  -  savage 
condition.  In  time  they  will  marry  in  their  tribe,  and 
the  school  episode  will  be  a  thing  of  the  past.  But 
not  altogether.  The  pretty  Josephine,  who  was  our 
best  cicerone  about  the  place,  a  girl  of  lovely  eyes  and 
modest  mien,  showed  us  with  pride  her  own  room,  or 
"  house,"  as  she  called  it,  neat  as  could  be,  simply  fur- 
nished with  an  iron  bedstead  and  snow  -  white  cot,  a 
mirror,  chair,  and  table,  and  a  trunk,  and  some  "  ad- 
vertising "  prints  on  the  walls.  She  said  that  she  was 
needed  at  home  to  cook  for  her  aged  mother,  and  her 
present  ambition  was  to  make  money  enough  by  the 
sale  of  pottery  and  curios  to  buy  a  cooking  stove,  so 
that  she  could  cook  more  as  the  whites  do.  The 
house-work  of  the  family  had  mainly  fallen  upon  her ; 
but  it  was  not  burdensome,  I  fancied,  and  she  and  the 
other  girls  of  her  age  had  leisure  to  go  to  the  station 
on  the  arrival  of  every  train,  in  hope  of  selhng  some- 
thing to  the  passengers,  and  to  sit  on  the  rocks  in  the 
sun  and  dream  as  maidens  do.     I  fancy  it  would  be 


FASCINATIONS   OF   THE  DESERT.  169 

better  for  Josephine  and  for  all  the  rest  if  there  were 
no  station  and  no  passing  trains.  The  elder  women 
were  nnifoi'mly  ugly,  but  not  repulsive  like  the  Mo- 
javes;  the  place  swarmed  with  children,  and  the  ba- 
bies, aged  women,  and  pleasing  young  girls  grouped 
most  effectively  on  the  roofs. 

The  whole  community  were  very  complaisant  and 
friendly  when  we  came  to  know  them  well,  which  we 
did  in  the  course  of  an  hour,  and  they  enjoyed  as 
much  as  we  did  the  bargaining  for  pottery.  They 
have  for  sale  a  great  quantity  of  small  pieces,  fantastic 
in  form  and  brilliantly  colored — toys,  in  fact ;  but  we 
found  in  their  houses  many  beautiful  jars  of  large  size 
and  excellent  shape,  decorated  most  effectively.  The 
ordinary  utensils  for  cooking  and  for  cooling  water 
are  generally  pretty  in  design  and  painted  artistically. 
Like  the  ancient  Peruvians,  they  make  many  vessels 
in  the  forms  of  beasts  and  birds.  Some  of  the  designs 
of  the  decoration  are  highly  conventionalized,  and 
others  are  just  in  the  proper  artistic  line  of  the  natu- 
ral— a  spray  with  a  bird,  or  a  sunflower  on  its  stalk. 
The  ware  is  all  unglazed,  exceedingly  light  and  thin, 
and  baked  so  hard  that  it  has  a  metalhc  sound  when 
struck.  Some  of  the  large  jars  are  classic  in  shape, 
and  recall  in  form  and  decoration  the  ancient  Cypriote 
ware,  but  the  colors  are  commonly  brilliant  and  bar- 
baric. The  designs  seem  to  be  indigenous,  and  to  be- 
tray little  Spanish  influence.  The  art  displayed  in 
this  pottery  is  indeed  wonderful,  and,  to  my  eye,  much 
more  effective  and  lastingly  pleasing  than  much  of 
our  cultivated  decoration.  A  couple  of  handsome  jars 
that  I  bought  of  an  old  woman,  she  assured  me  she 
made  and  decorated  herself ;  but  I  saw  no  ovens  there. 


170  OUE  ITALY. 

nor  any  signs  of  manufacture,  and  suppose  that  most 
of  the  ware  is  made  at  Acoma. 

It  did  not  seem  to  be  a  very  rehgious  community, 
although  the  town  has  a  Cathohc  church,  and  I  un- 
derstand that  Protestant  services  are  sometimes  held 
in  the  place.  The  church  is  not  much  frequented, 
and  the  only  evidence  of  devotion  I  encountered  was 
in  a  woman  who  wore  a  large  and  handsome  silver 
cross,  made  by  the  Navajos.  When  I  asked  its  price, 
she  clasped  it  to  her  bosom,  with  an  upward  look  full 
of  faith  and  of  refusal  to  part  with  her  religion  at  any 
price.  The  church,  which  is  adobe,  and  at  least  two 
centuries  old,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  I  have 
seen  anywhere.  It  is  a  simple  parallelogram,  104  feet 
long  and  21  feet  broad,  the  gable  having  an  opening 
in  which  the  bells  hang.  The  interior  is  exceedingly 
curious,  and  its  decorations  are  worth  reproduction. 
The  floor  is  of  earth,  and  many  of  the  tribe  who  were 
distinguished  and  died  long  ago  are  said  to  repose 
under  its  smooth  surface,  with  nothing  to  mark  their 
place  of  sepulture.  It  has  an  open  timber  roof,  the 
beams  supported  upon  carved  corbels.  The  ceiling  is 
made  of  wooden  sticks,  about  two  inches  in  diameter 
and  some  four  feet  long,  painted  in  alternated  colors — 
red,  blue,  orange,  and  black — and  so  twisted  or  woven 
together  as  to  produce  the  effect  of  plaited  straw,  a 
most  novel  and  agreeable  decoration.  Over  the  en- 
trance is  a  small  gallery,  the  under  roof  of  which  is 
composed  of  sticks  laid  in  straw  pattern  and  colored. 
All  around  the  wall  runs  a  most  striking  dado,  an  odd, 
angular  pattern,  with  conventionalized  birds  at  inter- 
vals, painted  in  strong  yet  fade  colors — red,  yellow, 
black,  and  white.     The  north  wall  is  without  win- 


til 


FASCINATIONS   OF   THE   DESERT.  173 

dows;  all  the  light,  when  the  door  is  closed,  comes 
from  two  irregular  windows,  mtliout  glass,  high  up  in 
the  south  wall.  The  chancel  walls  are  covered  with 
frescos,  and  there  are  several  quaint  paintings,  some 
of  them  not  very  bad  in  color  and  drawing.  The 
altar,  which  is  supported  at  the  sides  by  twisted 
wooden  pillars,  carved  with  a  knife,  is  hung  with  an- 
cient sheepskins  brightly  painted.  Back  of  the  altar 
are  some  archaic  wooden  images,  colored ;  and  over 
the  altar,  on  the  ceihng,  are  the  stars  of  heaven,  and 
the  sun  and  the  moon,  each  with  a  face  in  it.  The  in- 
terior was  scrupulously  clean  and  sweet  and  restful  to 
one  coming  in  from  the  glare  of  the  sun  on  the  desert. 
It  was  evidently  little  used,  and  the  Indians  who  ac- 
companied us  seemed  under  no  strong  impression  of 
its  sanctity ;  but  we  liked  to  Unger  in  it,  it  was  so 
bizarre,  so  picturesque,  and  exhibited  in  its  rude  deco- 
ration so  much  taste.  Two  or  three  small  birds  flit- 
ting about  seemed  to  enjoy  the  coolness  and  the  sub- 
dued light,  and  were  undisturbed  by  our  presence. 

These  are  children  of  the  desert,  kin  in  their  condi- 
tion and  the  influences  that  formed  them  to  the  sed- 
entary tribes  of  upper  Egypt  and  Ai'abia,  who  pitch 
their  villages  upon  the  rocky  eminences,  and  depend 
for  subsistence  upon  irrigation  and  scant  pasturage. 
Their  habits  are  those  of  the  dwellers  in  an  arid  land 
which  has  little  in  common  with  the  wilderness — the 
inhospitable  northern  wilderness  of  rain  and  frost  and 
snow.  Rain,  to  be  sure,  insures  some  sort  of  vegeta- 
tion in  the  most  forbidding  and  intractable  country, 
but  that  does  not  save  the  harsh  landscape  from  being 
unattractive.  The  high  plateaus  of  New  Mexico  and 
Arizona  have   everything  that   the  rainy  wilderness 


174 


OUR  ITALY. 


INTEBIOR  OF  THE  CHURCH  AT  LAGUNA. 


lacks — sunshine,  heaven's  own  an%  hnmense  breadth 
of  horizon,  color  and  infinite  beauty  of  outline,  and  a 
warm  soil  with  unlimited  possibilities  when  moistened. 
All  that  these  deserts  need  is  water.  A  fatal  want? 
No.  That  is  simply  saying  that  science  can  do  for 
this  region  what  it  cannot  do  for  the  high  wilderness 
of  frost — ^by  the  transportation  of  water  transform  it 


FASCINATIONS   OF   THE  DESERT.  175 

into  gardens  of  bloom  and  fields  of  fruitfulness.     The 
wilderness  shall  be  made  to  feed  the  desert. 

I  confess  that  these  deserts  in  the  warm  latitudes 
fascinate  me.  Perhaps  it  is  because  I  perceive  in 
them  such  a  chance  for  the  triumph  of  the  skill  of 
man,  seeing  how,  here  and  there,  his  energy  has  pushed 
the  desert  out  of  his  path  across  the  continent.  But 
I  fear  that  I  am  not  so  practical.  To  many  the  des- 
ert in  its  stony  sterility,  its  desolateness,  its  unbroken 
solitude,  its  fantastic  savageness,  is  either  appalling  or 
repulsive.  To  them  it  is  tiresome  and  monotonous. 
The  vast  plains  of  Kansas  and  Nebraska  are  monot- 
onous even  in  the  agricultural  green  of  summer.  Not 
so  to  me  the  desert.  It  is  as  changeable  in  its  hgnts 
and  colors  as  the  ocean.  It  is  even  in  its  general  feat- 
ures of  sameness  never  long  the  same.  If  you  trav- 
erse it  on  foot  or  on  horseback,  there  is  ever  some  mi- 
nor novelty.  And  on  the  swift  train,  if  you  draw  down 
the  curtain  against  the  glare,  or  turn  to  your  book, 
you  are  sure  to  miss  something  of  interest  —  a  deep 
canon  rift  in  the  plain,  a  turn  that  gives  a  wide  view 
glowing  in  a  hundred  hues  in  the  sun,  a  savage  gorge 
with  beetling  rocks,  a  solitary  butte  or  red  truncated 
pyramid  thrust  up  into  the  blue  sky,  a  horizontal  ledge 
cutting  the  horizon  line  as  straight  as  a  ruler  for  miles, 
a  pointed  cliff  uplifted  sheer  from  the  plain  and  laid  in 
regular  courses  of  Cyclopean  masonry,  the  battlements 
of  a  fort,  a  terraced  castle  with  towers  and  esplanade, 
a  great  trough  of  a  valley,  gray  and  parched,  enclosed 
by  far  purple  mountains.  And  then  the  unlimited 
freedom  of  it,  its  infinite  expansion,  its  air  like  wine 
to  the  senses,  the  floods  of  sunshine,  the  waves  of 
color,  the  translucent  atmosphere  that  aids  the  im- 


176  OUR  ITALY. 

agination  to  create  in  the  distance  all  architectural 
splendors  and  realms  of  peace.  It  is  all  like  a  mirage 
and  a  dream.  We  pass  swiftly,  and  make  a  moving 
panorama  of  beauty  in  hues,  of  strangeness  in  forms, 
of  sublimity  in  extent,  of  overawing  and  savage  antiq- 
uity. I  would  miss  none  of  it.  And  when  we  pass  to 
the  accustomed  again,  to  the  fields  of  verdure  and  the 
forests  and  the  hills  of  green,  and  are  limited  in  view 
and  shut  in  by  that  which  we  love,  after  all,  better 
than  the  arid  land,  I  have  a  great  longing  to  see  again 
the  desert,  to  be  a  part  of  its  vastness,  and  to  feel 
once  more  the  freedom  and  inspiration  of  its  illimita- 
ble horizons. 


CHAPTER  XYir. 
THE  HEAKT   OF   THE  DESERT. 

There  is  an  arid  region  lying  in  Northern  Arizona 
and  Southern  Utah  which  has  been  called  the  Dis- 
trict of  the  Grand  Canon  of  the  Colorado.  The  area, 
roughly  estimated,  contains  from  13,000  to  16,000 
square  miles — about  the  size  of  the  State  of  Marj'land. 
This  region,  fully  described  by  the  explorers  and  stud- 
ied by  the  geologists  in  the  United  States  service,  but 
little  known  to  even  the  travelhng  public,  is  probably 
the  most  interesting  temtory  of  its  size  on  the  globe. 
At  least  it  is  unique.  In  attempting  to  convey  an  idea 
of  it  the  writer  can  be  assisted  by  no  comj^arison,  nor 
can  he  appeal  in  the  minds  of  his  readers  to  any  expe- 
rience of  scenery  that  can  apply  here.  The  so-called 
Grand  Canon  differs  not  in  degree  from  all  other 
scenes ;  it  differs  in  kind. 

The  Colorado  Riv^r  flows  southward  through  Utah, 
and  crosses  the  Arizona  line  below  the  junction  T^ith 
the  San  Juan.  It  continues  southward,  flowing  deep 
in  what  is  called  the  Marble  Canon,  till  it  is  joined  by 
the  Little  Colorado,  coming  up  from  the  south-east ;  it 
then  turns  westward  in  a  de\'ious  line  until  it  drops 
straight  south,  and  forms  the  western  boundary  of 
Arizona.  The  centre  of  the  district  mentioned  is  the 
westwardly  flowing  part  of  the  Colorado.  South  of 
the  river  is  the  Colorado  Plateau,  at  a  general  eleva- 

12 


178  OUE   ITALY. 

tion  of  about  7000  feet.  North,  of  it  the  land  is  high- 
er, and  ascends  in  a  series  of  plateaus,  and  then  ter- 
races, a  succession  of  cliffs  like  a  great  stair- way,  rising 
to  the  high  plateaus  of  Utah.  The  plateaus,  adjoining 
the  river  on  the  north  and  well  marked  by  north  and 
south  dividing  lines,  or  faults,  are,  naming  them  from 
east  to  west,  the  Paria,  the  Kaibab,  the  Kanab,  the 
Uinkaret,  and  the  Sheavwitz,  terminating  in  a  great 
wall  on  the  west,  the  Great  Wash  fault,  where  the 
surface  of  the  coinitry  drops  at  once  from  a  general 
elevation  of  6000  feet  to  from  1300  to  3000  feet  above 
the  sea-level — into  a  desolate  and  formidable  desert. 

If  the  Grand  Canon  itself  did  not  dwarf  everything 
else,  the  scenery  of  these  plateaus  would  be  superla- 
tive in  interest.  It  is  not  all  desert,  nor  are  the 
gorges,  canons,  cliffs,  and  terraces,  which  gradually 
prepare  the  mind  for  the  comprehension  of  the  Grand 
Canon,  the  only  wonders  of  this  land  of  enchantment. 
These  are  contrasted  with  the  sylvan  scenery  of  the 
Kaibab  Plateau,  its  giant  forests  and  parks,  and  broad 
meadows  decked  in  the  summer  with  wild  flowers  in 
dense  masses  of  scarlet,  wliite,  purple,  and  yellow. 
The  Vermilion  Chffs,  the  Pink  Cliffs,  the  White  Chffs, 
surpass  in  fantastic  form  and  brilliant  color  anything 
that  the  imagination  conceives  possible  in  nature,  and 
there  are  dreamy  landscapes  quite  beyond  the  most 
exquisite  fancies  of  Claude  and  of  Turner.  The  re- 
gion is  full  of  wonders,  of  beauties,  and  sublimities 
that  Shelley's  imaginings  do  not  match  in  the  "  Pro- 
metheus Unbound,"  and  when  it  becomes  accessible  to 
the  toui'ist  it  will  offer  an  endless  field  for  the  delight 
of  those  whose  minds  can  rise  to  the  heights  of  the 
sublime  and  the  beautiful.     In  all  imaginative  writing 


THE  HEART  OF  THE  DESERT.  ISl 

or  painting  the  material  used  is  that  of  luiman  expe- 
rience, otherwise  it  could  not  be  understood;  even 
heaven  must  be  described  in  the  terms  of  an  earthly 
paradise.  Human  experience  has  no  prototype  of  this 
region,  and  the  imagination  has  never  conceived  of  its 
forms  and  colors.  It  is  impossible  to  convey  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  it  by  pen  or  pencil  or  brush.  The 
reader  who  is  famihar  with  the  glowing  descriptions 
in  the  official  reports  of  Major  J.  W.  Powell,  Captain 
C.  E.  Dutton,  Lieutenant  Ives,  and  others,  will  not 
save  himself  fi'om  a  shock  of  sm'prise  when  the  reality 
is  before  him.  This  paper  deals  only  with  a  single 
view  in  this  marvellous  region. 

The  point  where  we  struck  the  Grand  Cafion,  ap- 
proaching it  from  the  south,  is  opposite  the  promon- 
tory in  the  Kaibab  Plateau  named  Point  Sublime  by 
Major  Powell,  just  north  of  the  36th  i:>arallel,  and  112° 
15'  west  longitude.  This  is  only  a  few  miles  west  of 
the  junction  with  the  Little  Colorado.  About  three 
or  four  miles  west  of  this  junction  the  river  enters  the 
east  slope  of  the  east  Kaibab  monocline,  and  here  the 
Grrand  Canon  begins.  Rapidly  the  chasm  deepens  to 
about  6000  feet,  or  rather  it  penetrates  a  higher  coun- 
try, the  slope  of  the  river  remaining  about  the  same. 
Through  this  lofty  plateau — an  elevation  of  7000  to 
9000  feet — the  chasm  extends  for  sixty  miles,  gradu- 
ally changing  its  course  to  the  north-west,  and  enter- 
ing the  Kanab  Plateau.  The  Kaibab  division  of  the 
Grand  Caiion  is  by  far  the  sublimest  of  all,  being  1000 
feet  deeper  than  any  other.  It  is  not  grander  only 
on  account  of  its  greater  depth,  but  it  is  broader 
and  more  diversified  with  magnificent  architectural 
features. 


182  OUK  ITALY. 

The  Kanab  division,  only  less  magnificent  than  the 
Kaibab,  receives  the  Kanab  Caiion  from  the  north  and 
the  Cataract  Canon  from  the  south,  and  ends  at  the 
Toroweap  Yalley. 

The  section  of  the  Grand  Caiion  seen  by  those 
who  take  the  route  from  Peach  Springs  is  between 
113°  and  114°  west  longitude,  and,  though  wonderful, 
presents  few  of  the  great  features  of  either  the  Kaibab 
or  the  Kanab  divisions.  The  Grand  Canon  ends,  west 
longitude  114°,  at  the  Great  Wash,  west  of  the  Huni- 
cane  Ledge  or  Fault.  Its  whole  length  from  Little 
Colorado  to  the  Great  Wash,  measured  by  the  mean- 
derings  of  the  surface  of  the  river,  is  220  miles ;  by  a 
median  line  between  the  crests  of  the  summits  of  the 
walls  with  two  -  mile  cords,  about  195  miles ;  the  dis- 
tance in  a  straight  line  is  125  miles. 

In  our  journey  to  the  Grand  Caiion  we  left  the 
Santa  Fe  line  at  Flagstaff,  a  new  town  with  a  hvely 
lumber  industry,  in  the  midst  of  a  spruce -pine  forest 
which  occupies  the  broken  country  through  which  the 
X'oad  passes  for  over  fifty  miles.  The  forest  is  open, 
the  trees  of  moderate  size  are  too  thickly  set  with  low- 
growing  limbs  to  make  clean  lumber,  and  the  foli- 
age furnishes  the  minimum  of  shade ;  but  the  change 
to  these  woods  is  a  welcome  one  from  the  treeless 
reaches  of  the  desert  on  either  side.  The  canon  is 
also  reached  from  Williams,  the  next  station  west,  the 
distance  being  a  little  shorter,  and  the  point  on  the 
canon  visited  being  usually  a  little  farther  west.  But 
the  Flagstaff  route  is  for  many  reasons  usually  pre- 
ferred. Flagstaff  lies  just  south-east  of  the  San  Fran- 
cisco Mountain,  and  on  the  great  Colorado  Plateau, 
which  has  a  pretty  uniform  elevation  of  about  7000 


THE   HEART   OF   THE  DESERT. 


183 


feet  above  the  sea.  The  whole  region  is  full  of  in- 
terest. Some  of  the  most  remarkable  cliff  dweUings 
are  within  ten  miles  of  Flagstaff,  on  the  Walnut  Creek 


^;«« 


TOUKISTS   IN   THE    COLORADO    CANON. 


Canon.  At  Hol- 
brook,  100  miles 
east,  the  traveller 
finds  a  road  some 
forty  miles  long, 
that  leads  to  the 
great  petrified  forest,  or  Chalcedony  Park.  Still  far- 
ther east  are  the  villages  of  the  Pueblo  Indians,  near 
the  hne,  while  to  the  northward  is  the  great  reserva- 
tion of  the  Navajos,  a  nomadic  tribe  celebrated  for 
its  fine  blankets  and  pretty  work  in  silver — a  tribe 


184:  OUE  ITALY. 

that  preserves  mucli  of  its  manly  independence  by 
shunning  the  charity  of  the  United  States.  No  Ind- 
ians have  come  into  intimate  or  dependent  relations 
with  the  whites  without  being  deteriorated. 

Flagstaff  is  the  best  present  point  of  departure,  be- 
cause it  has  a  small  hotel,  good  supply  stores,  and  a 
large  livery-stable,  made  necessary  by  the  business  of 
the  place  and  the  objects  of  interest  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, and  because  one  reaches  from  there  by  the  easi- 
est road  the  finest  scenery  incomparably  on  the  Colo- 
rado. The  distance  is  seventy -six  miles  through  a 
practically  uninhabited  country,  much  of  it  a  desert, 
and  with  water  very  infrequent.  No  work  has  been 
done  on  the  road ;  it  is  made  simply  by  driving  over 
it.  There  are  a  few  miles  here  and  there  of  fair  wheel- 
ing, but  a  good  deal  of  it  is  intolerably  dusty  or  ex- 
ceedingly stony,  and  progress  is  slow.  In  the  daytime 
(it  was  the  last  of  June)  the  heat  is  apt  to  be  exces- 
sive ;  but  this  could  be  borne,  the  air  is  so  absolutely 
dry  and  delicious,  and  breezes,  occasionally  spring  up, 
if  it  were  not  for  the  dust.  It  is,  notwithstanding  the 
novelty  of  the  adventure  and  of  the  scenery  by  the 
way,  a  tiresome  journey  of  two  days.  A  day  of  rest  is 
absolutely  required  at  the  canon,  so  that  five  days 
must  be  allowed  for  the  trip.  This  will  cost  the  trav- 
eller, according  to  the  size  of  the  party  made  up,  from 
forty  to  fifty  dollars.  But  a  much  longer  sojourn  at 
the  canon  is  desirable. 

Our  party  of  seven  was  stowed  in  and  on  an  old 
Concord  coach  drawn  by  six  horses,  and  piled  with 
camp  equipage,  bedding,  and  provisions.  A  four-horse 
team  followed,  loaded  with  other  supphes  and  cooking 
utensils.     The  road  hes  on  the  east  side  of  the  San 


THE   HEART   OF   THE   DESEKT.  185 

Francisco  Mountain.  Returning,  we  passed  around  its 
west  side,  gaining  thus  a  complete  view  of  this  shapely 
peak.  The  compact  range  is  a  group  of  extinct  volca- 
noes, the  craters  of  which  are  distinctly  visible.  The 
cup-like  summit  of  the  highest  is  13,000  feet  above 
the  sea,  and  snow  always  lies  on  the  north  escarpment. 
Rising  about  6000  feet  above  the  point  of  view  of  the 
great  plateau,  it  is  from  all  sides  a  noble  object,  the 
dark  *  rock,  snow  -  sprinkled,  rising  out  of  the  dense 
growth  of  pine  and  cedar.  We  drove  at  tirst  through 
open  pine  forests,  through  park -like  intervals,  over 
the  foot-hills  of  the  mountain,  through  growths  of 
scrub  cedar,  and  out  into  the  ever -varying  rolling 
country  to  widely-extended  prospects.  Two  consider- 
able hills  on  our  right  attracted  us  by  their  unique 
beautj^.  Upon  the  summit  and  side  of  each  was  a  red 
glow  exactly  like  the  tint  of  sunset.  We  thought 
surely  that  it  was  the  effect  of  reflected  light,  but  the 
sky  was  cloudless  and  the  color  remained  constant. 
The  color  came  from  the  soil.  The  first  was  called 
Sunset  Mountain.  One  of  our  party  named  the  other, 
and  the  more  beautiful,  Peachblow  Mountain,  a  poetic 
and  perfectly  descriptive  name. 

We  lunched  at  noon  beside  a  swift,  clouded,  cold 
stream  of  snow-water  from  the  San  Francisco,  along 
which  grew  a  few  gnarled  cedars  and  some  brilliant 
wild  flowers.  The  scene  was  more  than  picturesque ; 
in  the  clear  hot  air  of  the  desert  the  distant  landscape 
made  a  hundred  pictures  of  beauty.  Behind  us  the 
dark  form  of  San  Francisco  rose  up  6000  feet  to  its 
black  crater  and  fields  of  spotless  snow.  Away  off  to 
the  north-east,  beyond  the  brown  and  gray  pastures, 
across  a  far  hue  distinct  in  dull  color,  lay  the  Painted 


ISG  OUK   ITALY. 

Desert,  like  a  mirage,  like  a  really  painted  landscape, 
iilowini;'  in  red  and  ovaniie  and  pink,  an  innnense  city 
rather  than  a,  landscape,  witli  towers  and  terraces  and 
t'a(;ades,  melting  into  indistinctness  as  in  a  rosy  mist, 
spectral  but  constant,  weltering  in  a  tropic  glow  and 
heat,  walls  and  cohunns  and  shafts,  the  wreck  of  an 
Orimital  capital  on  a  wide  violet  i)lain,  suffused  with 
brilhant  color  softened  into  exquisite  shades.  All  over 
this  region  nature  has  such  surprises,  that  laugh  at 
oiu"  inadequate  conception  of  lier  resources. 

Our  camp  for  the  night  Avas  at  tlie  next  place 
where  water  could  be  obtained,  a  station  of  the  Ari- 
zona Cattle  Company.  Abundant  water  is  piped  down 
to  it  from  mountain  springs.  The  log-house  and  sta- 
ble of  the  cow-boys  were  imoccupied,  and  we  pitched 
our  tent  on  a  knoll  by  the  corral.  Tlie  night  was  ab- 
solutely dry,  and  sparkling  with  the  starhght.  A  part 
of  the  company  spread  their  blankets  on  the  ground 
under  the  sky.  It  is  apt  to  be  cold  in  this  region 
towards  morning,  but  lodging  in  the  open  air  is  no 
hardship  in  this  delicious  climate.  The  next  day  the 
way  j)art  of  the  distance,  with  only  a  road  marked 
by  wagon  wheels,  was  through  extensive  and  barren- 
looking  cattle  ranges,  through  pretty  vales  of  grass 
surrounded  by  stunted  cedars,  and  over  stormy  ridges 
and  plains  of  sand  and  small  bowlders.  The  water 
having  failed  at  Red  Horse,  the  only  place  where  it  is 
usually  found  in  the  day's  march,  our  horses  went 
without,  and  we  liad  resource  to  our  canteens.  The 
whole  country  is  essentially  arid,  but  snow  falls  in  the 
winter-time,  and  its  melting,  with  occasional  showers 
in  the  summer,  create  what  are  called  surface  wells, 
made  by   drainage.     Many  of  them  go  dry  by  June. 


THE   HEMIT   or   THE   DESERT.  187 

There  had  been  no  rain  in  the  region  since  the  last  of 
March,  but  clouds  were  gathering  daily,  and  showers 
are  always  expected  in  July.  The  phenomenon  of 
rain  on  this  baked  surface,  in  this  hot  air,  and  with 
this  immense  horizon,  is  very  interesting.  Showers  in 
this  tentative  time  are  local.  In  our  journey  we  saw 
showers  far  off,  we  experienced  a  dash  for  ten  min- 
utes, but  it  was  local,  covering  not  more  than  a  mile  or 
two  square.  We  have  in  sight  a  vast  canoj^y  of  blue 
sky,  of  forming  and  dispersing  clouds.  It  is  difficult 
for  them  to  drop  their  moisture  in  the  rising  columns 
of  hot  air.  The  result  at  times  was  a  very  curious 
spectacle  —  rain  in  the  sky  that  cUd  not  reach  the 
earth.  Perhaps  some  cold  current  high  above  us 
would  condense  the  moisture,  which  would  begin  to 
fall  in  long  trailing  sweeps,  blown  like  fine  folds  of 
mushn,  or  like  sheets  of  dissoMng  sugar,  and  then  the 
hot  air  of  the  earth  would  dissipate  it,  and  the  showers 
would  be  absorbed  in  the  upper  regions.  The  heat 
was  sometimes  intense,  but  at  intervals  a  refreshing 
wind  would  blow,  the  air  being  as  fickle  as  the  rain ; 
and  now  and  then  we  would  see  a  slender  column  of 
dust,  a  thousand  or  two  feet  high,  marching  across  the 
desert,  apparently  not  more  than  two  feet  in  diameter, 
and  wavering  like  the  threads  of  moisture  that  tried  in 
vain  to  reach  the  earth  as  rain.  Of  hfe  there  was  not 
much  to  be  seen  in  our  desert  route.  In  the  first  day 
we  encountered  no  habitation  except  the  ranch-house 
mentioned,  and  saw  no  human  being ;  and  the  second 
day  none  except  the  sohtary  occupant  of  the  dried 
well  at  Red  Horse,  and  two  or  three  Indians  on  the 
hunt.  A  few  squirrels  were  seen,  and  a  rabbit  now 
and  then,  and  occasionally  a  bird.     The  general  im- 


188  OUR  ITALY. 

pression  was  that  of  a  deserted  land.  But  antelope 
abound  in  the  timber  regions,  and  we  saw  several  of 
these  graceful  creatures  quite  near  us.  Excellent  an- 
telope steaks,  bought  of  the  wandering  Indian  hunters, 
added  something  to  our  "canned"  supplies.  One  day 
as  we  lunched,  without  water,  on  the  cedar  slope  of  a 
lovely  grass  interval,  we  saw  coming  towards  us  over 
the  swells  of  the  prairie  a  figure  of  a  man  on  a  horse. 
It  rode  to  us  straight  as  the  crow  flies.  The  Indian 
pony  stopped  not  two  feet  from  where  our  group  sat, 
and  the  rider,  who  was  an  Oualapai  chief,  clad  in  sack- 
ing, with  the  print  of  the  brand  of  flour  or  salt  on  his 
back,  dismounted  with  his  Winchester  rifle,  and  stood 
silently  looking  at  us  without  a  word  of  salutation. 
He  stood  there,  impassive,  until  we  offered  him  some- 
thing to  eat.  Having  eaten  all  we  gave  him,  he  open- 
ed his  mouth  and  said,  "  Smoke  'em  f  Having  pro- 
cured from  the  other  wagon  a  pipe  of  tobacco  and 
a  pull  at  the  driver's  canteen,  he  returned  to  us  all 
smiles.  His  only  baggage  was  the  skull  of  an  ante- 
lope, with  the  horns,  hung  at  his  saddle.  Into  this  -he 
put  the  bread  and  meat  which  we  gave  him,  mounted 
the  wretched  pony,  and  without  a  word  rode  straight 
away.  At  a  little  distance  he  halted,  dismounted,  and 
motioned  towards  the  edge  of  the  timber,  where  he 
had  spied  an  antelope.  But  the  game  eluded  him,  and 
he  mounted  again  and  rode  off  across  the  desert — a 
strange  figure.  His  tribe  lives  in  the  caiion  some  fifty 
miles  west,  and  was  at  present  encamped,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  hunting,  in  the  pine  woods  not  far  from  the 
point  we  were  aiming  at. 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 

ON   THE   BRINK   OF   THE   GRAND   CANON. — THE  UNIQUE 
MARVEL   OF   NATURE. 

The  way  seemed  long.  With  the  heat  and  dust 
and  slow  progress,  it  was  exceedingly  wearisome.  Our 
modern  nerves  are  not  attuned  to  the  slow  crawling 
of  a  prairie-wagon.  There  had  been  growing  for  some 
time  in  the  coach  a  feeling  that  the  journey  did  not 
pay ;  that,  in  fact,  no  mere  scenery  could  compensate 
for  the  fatigue  of  the  trip.  The  imagination  did  not 
rise  to  it.  "  It  will  have  to  be  a  very  big  canon," 
said  the  duchess. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  entered  an  open  pine 
forest,  passed  through  a  meadow  where  the  Indians 
had  set  their  camp  by  a  shallow  pond,  and  drove  along 
a  ridge,  in  the  cool  shades,  for  three  or  four  miles. 
Suddenly,  on  the  edge  of  a  descent,  we  who  were  on 
the  box  saw  through  the  tree-tojDs  a  vision  that  stop- 
ped the  pulse  for  a  second,  and  filled  us  with  excite- 
ment. It  was  only  a  glimpse,  far  off  and  apparently 
lifted  up — red  towers,  purple  cliffs,  wide -spread  apart, 
hints  of  color  and  splendor;  on  the  right  distance, 
mansions,  gold  and  white  and  carmine  (so  the  light 
made  them),  architectural  habitations  in  the  sky  it 
must  be,  and  suggestions  of  others  far  off  in  the  mid- 
dle distance — a  substantial  aerial  city,  or  the  mins  of 
one,  such  as  the  prophet  saw  in  a  vision.     It  was  only 


190  OUE    ITALY. 

a  glimpse.  Our  hearts  were  in  our  mouths.  We  had 
a  vague  impression  of  something  wonderful,  fearful 
— some  incomparable  splendor  that  was  not  earthly. 
Were  we  drawing  near  the  "  City  f  and  should  we 
have  yet  a  more. perfect  view  thereof?  Was  it  Jeru- 
salem or  some  Hindoo  temples  there  in  the  sky?  "It 
was  huilded  of  pearls  and  precious  stones,  also  the 
streets  were  paved  with  gold;  so  that  by  reason  of 
the  natural  glory  of  the  city,  and  the  reflection  of  the 
sunbeams  upon  it.  Christian  with  desire  fell  sick."  It 
was  a  momentary  vision  of  a  vast  amphitheatre  of 
splendor,  mostly  hidden  by  the  trees  and  the  edge  of 
the  plateau. 

We  descended  into  a  hollow.  There  was  the  well, 
a  log-cabin,  a  tent  or  two  under  the  pine-trees.  We 
dismounted  with  impatient  haste.  The  sun  was  low 
in  the  horizon,  and  had  long  withdrawn  from  this 
grassy  dell.  Tired  as  we  were,  we  could  not  wait.  It 
was  only  to  ascend  the  little  steep,  stony  slope — 300 
yards — and  we  should  see  !  Our  party  were  straggling 
up  the  hill :  two  or  three  had  reached  the  edge.  I 
looked  up.  The  duchess  threw  up  her  arms  and 
screamed.  We  were  not  fifteen  paces  behind,  but  we 
saw  nothing.  We  took  the  few  steps,  and  the  whole 
magnificence  broke  upon  us.  No  one  could  be  pre- 
pared for  it.  The  scene  is  one  to  strike  dumb  with 
awe,  or  to  unstring  the  nerves ;  one  might  stand  in 
silent  astonishment,  another  would  burst  into  tears. 

There  are  some  experiences  that  cannot  be  repeat- 
ed— one's  first  view  of  Rome,  one's  first  view  of  Jeru- 
salem. But  these  emotions  are  produced  by  associ- 
ation, by  the  sudden  standing  face  to  face  with  the 
scenes  most  wrought  into  our  whole  life  and  educa- 


GRAND   CASON   OF   THE   COLOKADO — VIKW    KKOM   THE   HANSE   TRAIL. 


ON   THE   BRINK   OF  THE   GRAND   CANON.  193 

tion  by  tradition  and  religion.  This  was  witliout  as- 
sociation, as  it  was  witliout  parallel.  It  was  a  shock 
so  novel  that  the  mind,  dazed,  quite  failed  to  compre- 
hend it.  All  that  we  could  grasp  was  a  vast  confu- 
sion of  amphitheatres  and  strange  architectural  forms 
resplendent  with  color.  The  vastness  of  the  view 
amazed  us  quite  as  much  as  its  transcendent  beauty. 

We  had  expected  a  canon — two  lines  of  perpen- 
dicular walls  6000  feet  high,  with  the  ribbon  of  a  river 
at  the  bottom ;  but  the  reader  may  dismiss  all  his  no- 
tions of  a  caiion,  indeed  of  any  sort  of  mountain  or 
gorge  scenery  with  which  he  is  familiar.  We  had  come 
into  a  new  world.  What  we  saw  was  not  a  canon,  or 
a  chasm,  or  a  gorge,  but  a  vast  area  which  is  a  break 
in  the  j)lateau.  From  where  we  stood  it  was  twelve 
miles  across  to  the  opposite  walls  —  a  level  line  of 
mesa  on  the  Utah  side.  We  looked  up  and  down  for 
twenty  to  thirty  miles.  This  great  space  is  filled  with 
gigantic  architectural  constructions,  with  amphithea- 
tres, gorges,  precipices,  walls  of  masomy,  fortresses 
terraced  up  to  the  level  of  the  eye,  temples  mountain 
size,  all  brilliant  with  horizontal  lines  of  color — streaks 
of  solid  hues  a  few  feet  in  width,  streaks  a  thousand 
feet  in  width — yellows,  mingled  white  and  gray,  orange, 
dull  red,  brown,  blue,  carmine,  green,  all  blending  in 
the  sunlight  into  one  transcendent  suffusion  of  sj^len- 
dor.  Afar  off  we  saw  the  river  in  two  places,  a  mere 
thread,  as  motionless  and  smooth  as  a  strip  of  mirror, 
only  we  knew  it  was  a  turbid,  boiling  torrent,  GOOO 
feet  below  us.  Directly  opposite  the  overhanging 
ledge  on  which  we  stood  was  a  mountain,  the  sloping 
base  of  which  was  ashy  gray  and  bluish ;  it  rose  in  a 
series  of  terraces  to  a  thousand -feet  wall  of  dark  red 

13 


194  OUE  ITALY. 

sandstone,  receding  npward,  with  ranges  of  columns 
and  many  fantastic  sculptures,  to  a  finial  row  of  gigan- 
tic opera-glasses  6000  feet  above  the  river.  The  great 
San  Francisco  Mountain,  with  its  snowy  crater,  which 
we  had  passed  on  the  way,  might  have  been  set  down 
in  the  place  of  this  one,  and  it  would  have  been  only 
one  in  a  multitude  of  such  forms  that  met  the  eye 
whichever  way  we  looked.  Indeed,  all  the  vast  mount- 
ains in  this  region  might  be  hidden  in  this  canon. 

Wandering  a  little  away  from  the  group  and  out  of 
sight,  and  turning  suddenly  to  the  scene  from  another 
point  of  view,  I  experienced  for  a  moment  an  inde- 
scribable terror  of  nature,  a  confusion  of  mind,  a  fear 
to  be  alone  in  such  a  presence.  With  all  this  gro- 
tesqueness  and  majesty  of  form  and  radiance  of  color, 
creation  seemed  in  a  whirl.  With  our  education  in 
scenery  of  a  totally  different  kind,  I  suppose  it  would 
need  long  acquaintance  with  this  to  familiarize  one 
with  it  to  the  extent  of  perfect  mental  comprehen- 
sion. 

The  vast  abyss  has  an  atmosphere  of  its  own,  one 
always  changing  and  producing  new  effects,  an  at- 
mosphere and  shadows  and  tones  of  its  own^— golden, 
rosy,  gray,  brilliant,  and  sombre,  and  playing  a  thou- 
sand fantastic  tricks  to  the  vision.  The  rich  and  won- 
derful color  effects,  says  Captain  Button,  "  are  due  to 
the  inherent  colors  of  the  rocks,  modified  by  the  at- 
mosphere. Like  any  other  great  series  of  strata  in  the 
plateau  province,  the  carboniferous  has  its  own  range 
of  colors,  which  might  serve  to  distinguish  it,  even  if 
we  had  no  other  criterion.  The  summit  strata  are 
pale  gray,  with  a  faint  yellowish  cast.  Beneath  them 
the  cross-bedded  sandstone  appears,  showing  a  mottled 


ON   THE  BKINK   OF   THE    GRAND   CANON.  195 

surface  of  pale  pinkish  hue.  Underneath  this  member 
are  nearly  1000  feet  of  the  lower  Aubrey  sandstones, 
displaying  an  intensely  brilliant  red,  which  is  some- 
what marked  by  the  talus  shot  dowai  from  the  gray 
cherty  limestone  at  the  summit.  Beneath  the  lower 
Aubrey  is  the  face  of  the  Red  Wall  limestone,  from 
2000  to  3000  feet  high.  It  has  a  strong  red  tone,  but 
a  very  peculiar  one.  Most  of  the  red  strata  of  the 
West  have  the  bro^\Tiish  or  vermilion  tones,  but  these 
are  rather  purplish  red,  as  if  the  pigment  had  been 
treated  to  a  dash  of  blue.  It  is  not  quite  certain  that 
this  may  not  arise  in  part  from  the  intervention  of 
the  blue  haze,  and  probably  it  is  rendered  more  con- 
spicuous by  this  cause ;  but,  on  the  whole,  the  pur- 
plish cast  seems  to  be  inherent.  This  is  the  domi- 
nant color  of  the  canon,  for  the  expanse  of  the  rock 
surface  displayed  is  more  than  half  in  the  Red  Wall 
group." 

I  was  continually  hkening  this  to  a  vast  city  rather 
than  a  landscape,  but  it  was  a  city  of  no  man's  cre- 
ation nor  of  any  man's  conception.  In  the  visions 
which  inspired  or  crazy  painters  have  had  of  the  New 
Jerusalem,  of  Babylon  the  Great,  of  a  heaven  in  the 
atmosphere,  with  endless  perspective  of  towers  and 
steeps  that  hang  in  the  tmlight  sky,  the  imagination 
has  tried  to  reach  this  reality.  But  here  are  effects 
beyond  the  artist,  forms  the  architect  has  not  hinted 
at ;  and  yet  everything  reminds  us  of  man's  work. 
And  the  explorers  have  tried  by  the  use  of  Oriental 
nomenclature  to  bring  it  within  our  comprehension, 
the  East  being  the  land  of  the  imagination.  Tliere 
is  the  Hindoo  Amphitheatre,  the  Bright  Angel  Am- 
phitheatre, the  Ottoman  Amphitheatre,  Shiva's  Tem- 


196  OUE   ITALY. 

pie,  Yishim's  Temple,  Yulcan's  Throne.  And  here,  in- 
deed, is  the  idea  of  the  pagoda  architecture,  of  the 
terrace  architecture,  of  the  bizarre  constructions  which 
rise  with  projecting  buttresses,  rows  of  pillars,  recess- 
es, battlements,  esplanades,  and  low  walls,  hanging  gar- 
dens, and  truncated  pinnacles.  It  is  a  city,  but  a  city 
of  the  imagination.  In  many  pages  I  could  tell  what 
I  saw  in  one  day's  lounging  for  a  mile  or  so  along  the 
edge  of  the  precipice.  The  view  changed  at  every 
step,  and  was  never  half  an  hour  the  same  in  one 
place.  Nor  did  it  need  much  fancy  to  create  illusions 
or  pictures  of  unearthly  beauty.  There  was  a  castle, 
terraced  up  with  columns,  plain  enough,  and  below  it 
a  parade-ground ;  at  any  moment  the  knights  in  armor 
and  with  banners  might  emerge  from  the  red  gates 
and  deploy  there,  while  the  ladies  looked  down  from 
the  balconies.  But  there  were  many  castles  and  for- 
tresses and  barracks  and  noble  mansions.  And  the 
rich  sculpture  in  this  brilliant  color!  In  time  I  be- 
gan to  see  queer  details :  a  Richardson  house,  with 
low  portals  and  round  arches,  surmounted  by  a  Nu- 
remberg gable ;  perfect  panels,  600  feet  high,  for  the 
setting  of  pictures ;  a  train  of  cars  partly  derailed  at 
the  door  of  a  long,  low  warehouse,  with  a  garden  in 
front  of  it.     There  was  no  end  to  such  devices. 

It  was  long  before  I  could  comi^rehend  the  vast- 
ness  of  the  view,  see  the  enormous  chasms  and  rents 
and  seams,  and  the  many  architectm-al  ranges  sepa- 
rated by  great  gulfs,  between  me  and  the  wall  of  the 
mesa  twelve  miles  distant.  Away  to  the  north-east 
was  the  blue  Navajo  Mountain,  the  lone  peak  in  the 
horizon ;  but  on  the  southern  side  of  it  lay  a  desert 
level,  which  in  the  afternoon  hght  took  on  the  exact 


ON  THE  BEINK   OF   THE   GEAND   CANON.  197 

appearance  of  a  blue  lake ;  its  edge  this  side  was  a 
wall  thousands  of  feet  high,  many  miles  in  length, 
and  straightly  horizontal;  over  this  seemed  to  fall 
water.  I  could  see  the  foam  of  it  at  the  foot  of  the 
cliff ;  and  below  that  was  a  lake  of  shimmering  silver, 
in  which  the  giant  precipice  and  the  fall  and  their 
color  were  mirrored.  Of  course  there  was  no  silver 
lake,  and  the  reflection  that  simulated  it  was  only 
the  sun  on  the  lower  part  of  the  immense  wall. 

Some  one  said  that  all  that  was  needed  to  perfect 
this  scene  was  a  Niagara  Falls.  I  thought  what  figure 
a  fall  150  feet  high  and  3000  long  would  make  in  this 
arena.  It  would  need  a  spy-glass  to  discover  it.  An 
adequate  Niagara  here  should  be  at  least  three  miles 
in  breadth,  and  fall  2000  feet  over  one  of  these  walls. 
And  the  Yosemite — ah !  the  lovely  Yosemite  !  Dump- 
ed down  into  this  wilderness  of  gorges  and  mountains, 
it  would  take  a  guide  who  knew  of  its  existence  a 
long  time  to  find  it. 

The  process  of  creation  is  here  laid  bare  through 
the  geologic  periods.  The  strata  of  rock,  deposited 
or  upheaved,  preserve  their  horizontal  and  parallel 
courses.  If  we  imagine  a  river  flowing  on  a  plain,  it 
would  wear  for  itself  a  deeper  and  deeper  channel. 
The  walls  of  this  channel  would  recede  irregularly  by 
weathering  and  by  the  coming  in  of  other  streams. 
The  channel  would  go  on  deepening,  and  the  outer 
walls  would  again  recede.  If  the  rocks  were  of  dif- 
ferent material  and  degrees  of  hardness,  the  forms 
would  be  carved  in  the  fantastic  and  architectural 
manner  we  find  them  here.  The  Colorado  flows 
through  the  tortuous  inner  chasm,  and  where  we  see 
it,  it  is  6000  feet  below  the  surface  where  we  stand, 


198  OUE  ITALY. 

and  below  the  towers  of  the  terraced  forms  nearer  it. 
The  splendid  views  of  the  canon  at  this  point  given 
in  Captain  Button's  report  are  from  Point  Sublime, 
on  the  north  side.  There  seems  to  have  been  no 
way  of  reaching  the  river  fi'om  that  point.  From  the 
south  side  the  descent,  though  wearisome,  is  feasible. 
It  reverses  mountaineering  to  descend  6000  feet  for  a 
view,  and  there  is  a  certain  pleasure  in  standing  on  a 
mountain  summit  without  the  trouble  of  climbing  it. 
Hance,  the  guide,  who  has  charge  of  the  well,  has 
made  a  path  to  the  bottom.  The  route  is  seven  miles 
long.  Half-way  down  he  has  a  house  by  a  spring. 
At  the  bottom,  somewhere  in  those  depths,  is  a  sort 
of  farm,  grass  capable  of  sustaining  horses  and  cattle, 
and  ground  where  fruit-trees  can  grow.  Horses  are 
actually  living  there,  and  parties  descend  there  with 
tents,  and  camp  for  days  at  a  time.  It  is  a  world  of 
its  own.  Some  of  the  photographic  views  presented 
here,  all  inadequate,  are  taken  from  points  on  Hance's 
trail.  But  no  camera  or  pen  can  convey  an  adequate 
conception  of  what  Captain  Button  happily  calls  a 
great  innovation  in  the  modern  ideas  of  scenery.  To 
the  eye  educated  to  any  other,  it  may  be  shocking, 
grotesque,  incomprehensible ;  but  "  those  who  have 
long  and  carefully  studied  the  Grand  Caiion  of  the 
Colorado  do  not  hesitate  for  a  moment  to  pronounce 
it  by  far  the  most  subhme  of  all  earthly  spectacles." 

I  have  space  only  to  refer  to  the  geologic  history 
in  Captain  Button's  report  of  1882,  of  which  there 
should  be  a  popular  edition.  The  waters  of  the  At- 
lantic once  overflowed  this  region,  and  were  separated 
from  the  Pacific,  if  at  all,  only  by  a  ridge.  The  story 
is  of  long  eras  of  deposits,  of  removal,  of  upheaval, 


ON   THE   BRINK   OF   THE    GRAND   CANON.  199 

and  of  volcanic  action.  It  is  estimated  that  in  one 
period  the  thickness  of  strata  removed  and  trans- 
ported away  was  10,000  feet.  Long  after  the  Colo- 
rado began  its  work  of  corrosion  there  was  a  mighty 
upheaval.  The  reader  will  find  the  story  of  the  mak- 
ing of  the  Grrand  Canon  more  fascinating  than  any 
romance. 

Without  knowing  this  story  the  impression  that 
one  has  in  looking  on  this  scene  is  that  of  immense 
antiquity,  hardly  anywhere  else  on  earth  so  over- 
w^helming  as  here.  It  has  been  here  in  all  its  lonely 
grandeur  and  transcendent  beauty,  exactly  as  it  is,  for 
w^hat  to  us  is  an  eternity,  unknown,  unseen  by  human 
eye.  To  the  recent  Indian,  w^ho  roved  along  its  brink 
or  descended  to  its  recesses,  it  was  not  strange,  be- 
cause he  had  known  no  other  than  the  plateau  scen- 
ery. It  is  only  within  a  quarter  of  a  century  that  the 
Grand  Caiion  has  been  known  to  the  civilized  world. 
It  is  scarcely  known  now.  It  is  a  world  largely  unex- 
plored. Those  who  best  know  it  are  most  sensitive  to 
its  awe  and  splendor.  It  is  never  twice  the  same,  for, 
as  I  said,  it  has  an  atmosphere  of  its  own.  I  was 
told  by  Hance  that  he  once  saw  a  thunder-storm  in 
it.  He  described  the  chaos  of  clouds  in  the  pit,  the 
roar  of  the  tempest,  the  reverberations  of  thunder,  the 
inconceivable  splendor  of  the  rainbows  mingled  with 
the  colors  of  the  towers  and  terraces.  It  was  as  if 
the  world  were  breaking  up.  He  fled  away  to  his  hut 
in  terror. 

The  day  is  near  when  this  scenery  must  be  made 
accessible.  A  railway  can  easily  be  built  from  Flag- 
staff. The  projected  road  from  Utah,  crossing  the 
Colorado  at  Lee's  Ferry,  would  come  within  twenty 


200  OUE   ITALY. 

miles  of  tlie  Grand  Canon,  and  a  branch  to  it  could 
be  built.  The  region  is  arid,  and  in  the  "sight-seeing" 
part  of  the  year  the  few  surface  wells  and  springs  are 
likely  to  go  dry.  The  greatest  difficulty  would  be  in 
procuring  water  for  railway  service  or  for  such  houses 
of  entertainment  as  are  necessary.  It  could,  no  doubt, 
be  piped  from  the  San  Francisco  Mountain.  At  any 
rate,  ingenuity  will  overcome  the  difficulties,  and  trav- 
ellers from  the  wide  world  will  flock  thither,  for  there 
is  revealed  the  long -kept  secret,  the  unique  achieve- 
ment of  nature. 


APPENDIX 


A    CLIMATE    FOK    INVALIDS. 

The  following  notes  on  the  climate  of  Southern  California, 
written  by  Dr.  H,  A.  Johnson,  of  Chicago,  at  the  solicitation  of 
the  writer  of  this  volume  and  for  his  information,  I  print  with 
his  permission,  because  the  testimony  of  a  physician  w4io  has 
made  a  special  study  of  climatology  in  Europe  and  America,  and 
is  a  recognized  authority,  belongs  of  right  to  the  public : 

The  choice  of  a  climate  for  invalids  or  semi-invalids  involves  the  con- 
sideration of :  First,  the  invalid,  his  physical  condition  (that  is,  disease), 
his  peculiarities  (mental  and  emotional),  his  social  habits,  and  his  natural 
and  artificial  needs.  Second,  the  elements  of  climate,  such  as  temperature, 
moisture,  direction  and  force  of  winds,  the  averages  of  the  elements,  the 
extremes  of  variation,  and  the  rapidity  of  change. 

The  climates  of  the  western  and  south-western  portions  of  the  United 
States  are  well  suited  to  a  variety  of  morbid  conditions,  especially  those 
pertaining  to  the  pulmonary  organs  and  the  nervous  system.  Very  few 
localities,  however,  are  equally  well  adapted  to  diseases  of  innervation  of 
circulation  and  respiration.  For  the  first  and  second,  as  a  rule,  high  alti- 
tudes are  not  advisable  ;  for  the  third,  altitudes  of  from  two  thousand  to  six 
thousand  feet  are  not  only  admissible  but  by  many  thought  to  be  desira- 
ble. It  seems,  however,  probable  that  it  is  to  the  dryness  of  the  air  and 
the  general  antagonisms  to  vegetable  growths,  rather  than  to  altitude  alone, 
that  the  benefits  derived  in  these  regions  by  persons  suffering  from  con- 
sumption and  kindred  diseases  should  be  credited. 

Proximity  to  large  bodies  of  water,  river  valleys,  and  damp  plateaus 
are  undesirable  as  places  of  residence  for  invalids  with  lung  troubles. 
There  are  exceptions  to  this  rule.     Localities  near  the  sea  with  a  climate 


202  APPENDIX. 

subject  to  slight  variations  in  temperature,  a  dry  atmosphere,  little  rainfall, 
much  sunshine,  not  so  cold  in  winter  as  to  prevent  much  out-door  life  and 
not  so  hot  in  summer  as  to  make  out-door  exercise  exhausting,  are  well 
adapted  not  only  to  troubles  of  the  nervous  and  circulatory  systems,  but 
also  to  those  of  the  respiratory  organs. 

Such  a  climate  is  found  in  the  extreme  southern  portions  of  California. 
At  San  Diego  the  rainfall  is  much  less,  the  air  is  drier,  and  the  number  of 
sunshiny  days  very  much  larger  than  on  our  Atlantic  seaboard,  or  in  Cen- 
tral and  Northern  California.  The  winters  are  not  cold ;  flowers  bloom  in 
the  open  air  all  the  year  round  ;  the  summers  are  not  hot.  The  mountains 
and  sea  combine  to  give  to  this  region  a  climate  with  few  sudden  changes, 
and  with  a  comfortable  range  of  all  essential  elements. 

A  residence  during  a  part  of  the  winter  of  1889-90  at  Coronado  Beach, 
and  a  somewhat  careful  study  of  the  comparative  climatology  of  the  south- 
western portions  of  the  United  States,  leads  me  to  think  that  we  have  few 
localities  where  the  comforts  of  life  can  be  secured,  and  which  at  the  same 
time  are  so  well  adapted  to  the  needs  of  a  variety  of  invalids.,  as  San  Diego 
and  its  surroundings.  In  saying  this  T  do  not  wish  to  be  understood  as 
preferring  it  to  all  others  for  some  one  condition  or  disease,  but  only  that 
for  weak  hearts,  disabled  lungs,  and  worn-out  nerves  it  seems  to  me  to  be 
unsurpassed. 

Chicago,  July  12,  1890. 

THE   COMING   OF   WINTER  IN   SOUTHERN   CALIFORNIA. 

From  Mr.  Theodore  S.  Yan  Dyke's  altogether  admirable  book 
on  Southeni  California  I  have  permission  to  quote  the  following 
exquisite  description  of  the  floral  procession  from  December  to 
March,  when  the  Land  of  the  Sun  is  awakened  by  the  first  winter 
rain : 

Sometimes  this  season  commences  with  a  fair  rain  in  November,  after 
a  light  shower  or  two  in  October,  but  some  of  the  very  best  seasons  begin 
about  the  time  that  all  begin  to  lose  hope.  November  adds  its  full  tribute 
to  the  stream  of  sunshine  that  for  months  has  poured  along  the  land ;  and, 
perhaps,  December  closes  the  long  file  of  cloudless  days  with  banners  of 
blue  and  gold.  The  plains  and  slopes  lie  bare  and  brown ;  the  low  hills 
that  break  away  from  them  are  yellow  with  dead  foxtail  or  wild  oats,  gray 
with  mustard-stalks,  or  ashy  green  with  chemisal  or  sage.  Even  the  chap- 
arral, that  robes  the  higher  hills  in  living  green,  has  a  tired  air,  and  the 


APPENDIX.  203 

long  timber-line  that  marks  the  canon  winding  up  the  mountain-slopes  is 
decidedly  paler.  The  sea-breeze  has  fallen  off  to  a  faint  breath  of  air ;  the 
land  lies  silent  and  dreamy  with  golden  haze ;  the  air  grows  drier,  the  sun 
hotter,  and  the  shade  cooler ;  the  smoke  of  brush-fires  hangs  at  times  along 
the  sky  ;  the  water  has  risen  in  the  springs  and  sloughs  as  if  to  meet  the 
coming  rain,  but  it  has  never  looked  less  like  rain  than  it  now  does. 

Suddenly  a  new  wind  arises  from  the  vast  watery  plains  upon  the 
south-west ;  long,  fleecy  streams  of  cloud  reach  out  along  the  sky  •,  the 
distant  monntain-tops  seem  swimming  in  a  film  of  haze,  and  the  great  Cal- 
ifornia weather  prophet — a  creature  upon  whom  the  storms  of  adverse  ex- 
perience have  beaten  for  years  without  making  even  a  weather  crack  in  the 
smooth  cheek  of  his  conceit — lavishes  his  wisdom  as  confidently  as  if  he 
had  never  made  a  false  prediction.  After  a  large  amount  of  fuss,  and 
enough  preliminary  skirmishing  over  the  sky  for  a  dozen  storms  in  any 
Eastern  State,  the  clouds  at  last  get  ready,  and  a  soft  pattering  is  heard 
upon  the  roof — the  sweetest  music  that  ever  cheers  a  Californian  ear,  and 
one  which  the  author  of  "  The  Rain  upon  the  Roof "  should  have  heard 
before  writing  his  poem. 

When  the  sun  again  appears  it  is  with  a  softer,  milder  beam  than  be- 
fore. The  land  looks  bright  and  refreshed,  like  a  tired  and  dirty  boy  who 
has  had  a  good  bath  and  a  nap,  and  already  the  lately  bare  plains  and  hill- 
sides show  a  greenish  tinge.  Fine  little  leaves  of  various  kinds  are  spring- 
ing from  the  ground,  but  nearly  all  are  lost  in  a  general  profusion  of  dark 
green  ones,  of  such  shape  and  delicacy  of  texture  that  a  careless  eye  might 
readily  take  them  for  ferns.  This  is  the  alfileria,  the  prevailing  flower  of 
the  land.  The  rain  may  continue  at  intervals.  Daily  the  land  grows 
greener,  while  the  shades  of  green,  varied  by  the  play  of  sunlight  on  the 
slopes  and  rolling  hills,  increase  in  number  and  intensity.  Here  the  color 
is  soft,  and  there  bright ;  yonder  it  rolls  in  wavy  alternations,  and  yonder 
it  reaches  in  an  unbroken  shade  where  the  plain  sweeps  broad  and  free. 
For  many  weeks  green  is  the  only  color,  though  cold  nights  may  perhaps 
tinge  it  with  a  rusty  red.  About  the  first  of  February  a  little  starlike 
flower  of  bluish  pink  begins  to  shine  along  the  ground.  This  is  the  bloom 
of  the  alfileria,  and  swiftly  it  spreads  from  the  southern  slopes,  where  it 
begins,  and  runs  from  meadow  to  hill-top.-  Soon  after  a  cream-colored 
bell-flower  begins  to  nod  from  a  tall,  slender  stalk ;  another  of  sky-blue 
soon  opens  beside  it ;  beneath  these  a  little  five-petaled  flower  of  deep 
pink  tries  to  outshine  the  blossoms  of  the  alfileria ;  and  above  them  soon 
stands  the  radiant  shooting-star,  with  reflexed  petals  of  white,  yellow,  and 
pink  shining  behind  its  purplish  ovaries.     On  every  side  violets,  here  of 


204  APPENDIX. 

the  purest  golden  hue  and  overpowering  fragrance,  appear  in  numbers  be- 
yond all  conception.  And  soon  six  or  seven  varieties  of  clover,  all  with 
fine,  delicate  leaves,  unfold  flowers  of  yellow,  red,  and  pink.  Delicate  little 
crucifers  of  white  and  yellow  shine  modestly  below  all  these  ;  little  cream- 
colored  flowers  on  slender  scapes  look  skyward  on  every  side  ;  while  oth- 
ers of  purer  white,  with  every  variety  of  petal,  crowd  up  among  them. 
Standing  now  upon  some  hill-side  that  commands  miles  of  landscape,  one 
is  dazzled,  with  a  blaze  of  color,  from  acres  and  acres  of  pink,  great  fields 
of  violets,  vast  reaches  of  blue,  endless  sweeps  of  white. 

Upon  this — merely  the  warp  of  the  carpet  about  to  cover  the  land — 
the  sun  fast  weaves  a  woof  of  splendor.  Along  the  soiithern  slopes  of  the 
lower  hills  soon  beams  the  orange  light  of  the  poppy,  which  swiftly  kin- 
dles the  adjacent  slopes,  then  flames  along  the  meadow,  and  blazes  upon 
the  northern  hill-sides.  Spires  of  green,  mounting  on  every  side,  soon 
open  upon  the  top  into  lilies  of  deep  lavender,  and  the  scarlet  bracts  of 
the  painted-cup  glow  side  by  side  with  the  crimson  of  the  cardinal-flower. 
And  soon  comes  the  iris,  with  its  broad  golden  eye  fringed  with  rays  of 
lavender  blue ;  and  five  varieties  of  phacelia  overwhelm  some  places  with 
waves  of  purple,  blue,  indigo,  and  whitish  pink.  The  evening  primrose 
covers  the  lower  slopes  with  long  sheets  of  brightest  yellow,  and  from  the 
hills  above  the  rock-rose  adds  its  golden  bloom  to  that  of  the  sorrel  and 
the  wild  alfalfa,  until  the  hills  almost  outshine  the  bright  light  from  the 
slopes  and  plains.  And  through  all  this  nods  a  tulip  of  most  delicate  lav- 
ender; vetches,  lupins,  and  all  the  members  of  the  wild-pea  family  are 
pushing  and  winding  their  way  everywhere  in  every  shade  of  crimson, 
purple,  and  white ;  along  the  ground  crowfoot  weaves  a  mantle  of  white, 
through  which,  amid  a  thousand  comrades,  the  orthocarpus  rears  its  tufted 
head  of  pink.  Among  all  these  are  mixed  a  thousand  other  flowers,  plen- 
ty enough  as  plenty  would  be  accounted  in  other  countries,  but  here  mere 
pin-points  on  a  great  map  of  colors. 

As  the  stranger  gazes  upon  this  carpet  that  now  covers  hill  and  dale, 
undulates  over  the  table-lands,  and  robes  even  the  mountain  with  a  brill- 
iancy and  breadth  of  color  that  strikes  the  eye  from  miles  away,  he  ex- 
hausts his  vocabulary  of  superlatives,  and  goes  away  imagining  he  has 
seen  it  all.  Yet  he  has  seen  only  the  background  of  an  embroidery  more 
varied,  more  curious  and  splendid,  than  the  carpet  upon  which  it  is  WTOught. 
Asters  bright  with  centre  of  gold  and  lavender  rays  soon  shine  high  above 
the  iris,  and  a  new  and  larger  tulip  of  deepest  yellow  nods  where  its  lav- 
ender cousin  is  drooping  its  lately  proud  head.  New  bell-flowers  of  white 
and  blue  and  indigo  rise  above  the  first,  which  served  merely  as  ushers  to 


APPENDIX.  205 

the  display,  and  whole  acres  ablaze  with  the  orange  of  the  poppy  are  fast 
turning  with  the  indigo  of  the  larkspur.  "Where  the  ground  was  lately 
aglow  with  the  marigold  and  the  four-o'clock  the  tall  penstemon  now  reaches 
out  a  hundred  arms  full-hung  with  trumpets  of  purple  and  pink.  Here  the 
silene  rears  high  its  head  with  fringed  corolla  of  scarlet;  and  there  the 
wild  gooseberry  dazzles  the  eye  with  a  perfect  shower  of  tubular  flowers 
of  the  same  bright  color.  The  mimulus  alone  is  almost  enough  to  color 
the  hills.  Half  a  dozen  varieties,  some  with  long,  narrow,  trumpet-shaped 
flowers,  others  with  broad  flaring  mouths ;  some  of  them  tall  herbs,  and 
others  large  shrubs,  with  varying  shades  of  dark  red,  light  red,  orange, 
cream-color,  and  yellow,  spangle  hill-side,  rock-pile,  and  ravine.  Among 
them  the  morning-glory  twines  with  flowers  of  purest  white,  new  lupins 
climb  over  the  old  ones,  and  the  trailing  vetch  festoons  rock  and  shrub 
and  tree  with  long  garlands  of  crimson,  purple,  and  pink.  Over  the  scarlet 
of  the  gooseberry  or  the  gold  of  the  high-bush  mimulus  along  the  hills, 
the  honeysuckle  hangs  its  tubes  of  richest  cream-color,  and  the  wild  cu- 
cumber pours  a  shower  of  white  over  the  green  leaves  of  the  sumach  or 
sage.  Snap-dragons  of  blue  and  white,  dandelions  that  you  must  look  at 
three  or  four  times  to  be  certain  what  they  are,  thistles  that  are  soft  and 
tender  with  flowers  too  pretty  for  the  thistle  family,  orchids  that  you  may 
try  in  vain  to  classify,  and  sages  and  mints  of  which  you  can  barely  recog- 
nize the  genera,  with  cruciferse,  compositie,  and  what-not,  add  to  the  glare 
and  confusion. 

Meanwhile,  the  chaparral,  which  during  the  long  dry  season  has  robed 
the  hills  in  sombre  green,  begins  to  brighten  with  new  life ;  new  leaves 
adorn  the  ragged  red  arms  of  the  manzanita,  and  among  them  blow  thou- 
sands of  little  urn -shaped  flowers  of  rose-color  and  white.  The  bright 
green  of  one  lilac  is  almost  lost  in  a  luxuriance  of  sky-blue  blossoms,  and 
the  white  lilac  looks  at  a  distance  as  if  drifted  over  with  snow.  The  cer- 
cocarpus  almost  rivals  the  lilac  in  its  display  of  white  and  blue,  and  the 
dark,  forbidding  adenostoma  now  showers  forth  dense  panicles  of  little 
white  flowers.  Here,  too,  a  new  mimulus  pours  floods  of  yellow  light,  and 
high  above  them  all  the  yucca  rears  its  great  plume  of  purple  and  white. 

Thus  marches  on  for  weeks  the  floral  procession,  new  turns  bringing 
new  banners  into  view,  or  casting  on  old  ones  a  brighter  light,  but  ever 
showing  a  riotous  profusion  of  splendor  until  member  after  member  drops 
gradually  out  of  the  ranks,  and  only  a  band  of  stragglers  is  left  marching 
away  into  the  summer.  But  myriads  of  ferns,  twenty- one  varieties  of 
which  are  quite  common,  and  of  a  fineness  and  delicacy  rarely  seen  else- 
where, still  stand  green  in  the  shade  of  the  rocks  and  trees  along  the  hills, 


206  APPENDIX. 

and  many  a  flower  lingers  in  the  timber  or  canons  long  after  its  friends  on 
the  open  hills  or  plains  have  faded  away.  In  the  canons  and  timber  are 
also  many  flowers  that  are  not  found  in  the  open  ground,  and  as  late  as 
the  middle  of  September,  only  twenty  miles  from  the  sea,  and  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  but  fifteen  hundred  feet,  I  have  gathered  bouquets  that  would 
attract  immediate  attention  anywhere.  The  whole  land  abounds  with 
flowers  both  curious  and  lovely ;  but  those  only  have  been  mentioned 
which  force  themselves  upon  one's  attention.  Where  the  sheep  have  not 
ruined  all  beauty,  and  the  rains  have  been  sufiicient,  they  take  as  full  pos- 
session of  the  land  as  the  daisy  and  wild  carrot  do  of  some  Eastern  mead- 
ows. There  are  thousands  of  others,  which  it  would  be  a  hopeless  task  to 
enumerate,  which  are  even  more  numerous  than  most  of  the  favorite  wild 
flowers  are  in  the  East,  yet  they  are  not  abundant  enough  to  give  charac- 
ter to  the  country.  For  instance,  there  is  a  great  larkspur,  six  feet  high, 
with  a  score  of  branching  arms,  all  studded  with  spurred  flowers  of  such 
brilliant  red  that  it  looks  like  a  fountain  of  strontium  fire ;  but  you  will 
not  see  it  every  time  you  turn  around.  A  tall  lily  grows  in  the  same  way, 
with  a  hundred  golden  flowers  shining  on  its  many  arms,  but  it  must  be 
sought  in  certain  places.  So  the  tiger  -  lily  and  the  columbine  must  be 
sought  in  the  mountains,  the  rose  and  sweetbrier  on  low  ground,  the  night- 
shades and  the  helianthus  in  the  timbered  canons  and  gulches. 

Delicacy  and  brilliancy  characterize  nearly  all  the  California  flowers, 
and  nearly  all  are  so  strange,  so  different  from  the  other  members  of  their 
families,  that  they  would  be  an  ornament  to  any  greenhouse.  The  alfi- 
leria,  for  mstance,  is  the  richest  and  strongest  fodder  in  the  world.  It  is 
the  main-stay  of  the  stock-grower,  and  Avhen  raked  up  after  drying  makes 
excellent  hay  ;  yet  it  is  a  geranium,  delicate  and  pretty,  when  not  too  rank. 

But  suddenly  the  full  blaze  of  color  is  gone,  and  the  summer  is  at 
hand.  Brown  tints  begin  to  creep  over  the  plains ;  the  wild  oats  no  lon- 
ger ripple  in  silvery  waves  beneath  the  sun  and  wind ;  and  the  foxtail,  that 
shone  so  brightly  green  along  the  hill-side,  takes  on  a  golden  hue.  The 
light  lavender  tint  of  the  chorizanthe  now  spreads  along  the  hills  where  the 
poppy  so  lately  flamed,  and  over  the  dead  morning-glory  the  dodder  weaves 
its  orange  floss.  A  vast  army  of  cruciferse  and  composita)  soon  overruns 
the  land  with  bright  yellow,  and  numerous  varieties  of  mint  tinge  it  with 
blue  or  purple ;  but  the  greater  portion  of  the  annual  vegetation  is  dead  or 
dying.  The  distant  peaks  of  granite  now  begin  to  glow  at  evening  with  a 
soft  purple  hue;  the  light  poured  into  the  deep  ravines  towards  sundown 
floods  them  with  a  crimson  mist ;  on  the  shady  hill-sides  the  chaparral 
looks  bluer,  and  on  the  sunny  hill-sides  is  a  brighter  green  than  before. 


APPENDIX. 


207 


COMPARATIVE  TEMPERATURE  AROUND  THE  WORLD. 

The  following  table,  published  by  the  Pasadena  Board  of 
Trade,  shows  the  comparative  temperature  of  well-known  places 
in  various  parts  of  the  world,  arranged  according  to  the  differ- 
ence between  their  average  winter  and  average  summer: 


Place. 


Spring 


Difference 
Summer, 
Winter. 


Funchal,  Madeira 

St.  Michael,  Azores 

PASADENA 

Santa  Cruz,  Canaries 

Santa  Barbara 

Nassau,  Bahama  Islands  . 

San  Diego,  California 

Cadiz,  Spain 

Lisbon,  Portugal 

Malta 

Algiers 

St.  Augustine,  Florida. . .  . 

Rome,  Italy 

Sacramento,  Califoinia. . . 

Mentone 

Nice,  Italy 

New  Orleans,  Louisiana. . 

Cairo,  Egypt 

Jacksonville,  Florida 

Pan,  France 

Florence,  Italy 

San  Antonio,  Texas 

Aiken,  South  Carolina. . . . 
Fort  Yuma,  California  . . . 

Visalia,  California 

Santa  Fe,  New  Mexico. .  . 

Boston,  Mass 

New  York,  N.  Y 

Albuquerque,  New  Mexico 

Denver,  Colorado. 

St.  Paul,  Minnesota 

Minneapolis,  Minnesota. . . 


62.88 
57.83 
56.00 
64.65 
54.29 
70.67 
54.09 
52.90 
53.00 
57.46 
55.00 
58.25 
48.90 
47.92 
49.50 
47.88 
56.00 
58.52 
55.02 
41.86 
44.30 
52.74 
45.82 
57.96 
45.38 
30.28 
28.08 
31.93 
34.78 
27.66 
15.09 
12.87 


64.55 
61.17 
61.07 
68.87 
59.45 
77.67 
60.14 
59.93 
60.00 
62.76 
66.00 
68.69 
57.65 
59.17 
60.00 
56.23 
69.37 
73.58 
68.88 
54.06 
56.00 
70.48 
61.32 
73.40 
59.40 
50.06 
45.61 
48.26 
56.36 
46.33 
41.29 
40.12 


70.89 
68.33 
67.61 
76.68 
67.71 
86.00 
69.67 
70.43 
71.00 
78.20 
77.00 
80.36 
72.16 
71.19 
73.00 
72.26 
81.08 
85.10 
81.93 
70.72 
74.00 
83.73 
77.36 
92.07 
80.78 
70.50 
68.68 
72.62 
76.27 
71.66 
68.03 
68.34 


70.19 
62.33 
62.31 
74.17 
63.11 
80.33 
64.63 
65.35 
62.00 
71.03 
60.00 
71.90 
63.96 
61.72 
56.60 
61.63 
69.80 
71.48 
62.54 
57.39 
60.70 
71.56 
61.96 
75.66 
60.34 
51.34 
51.04 
48.50 
56.33 
47.16 
44.98 
45.33 


8.01 
10.50 
11.61 
12.03 
13.42 
15.33 
15.58 
17.53 
18.00 
20.74 
22.00 
22.11 
23.26 
23.27 
23.50 
24.44 
25.(»8 
26.58 
26.91 
28.86 
29.70 
30.99 
31.54 
34.11 
35.40 
40.22 
40.60 
40.69 
41.40 
44.00 
52.94 
55.47 


CALIFORNIA   AND   ITALY. 

The  Los  Angeles  Chamber  of  Commerce,  in  its  pamphlet  de- 
scribing that  city  and  county,  gives  a  letter  from  the  Signal  Serv- 
ice Observer  at  Sacramento,  comparing  the  temperature  of  places 
in  California  and  Ital3^     He  writes : 

To  prove  to  your  many  and  intelligent  readers  the  equability  and  uni- 
formity of  the  climate  of  Santa  Barbara,  San  Diego,  and  Los  Angeles,  as 


208 


APPENDIX. 


compared  with  Mentone  and  San  Remo,  of  the  Riviera  of  Italy  and  ot 
Corfu,  I  append  the  monthly  temperature  for  each  place.  Please  notice 
a  much  warmer  temperature  in  winter  at  the  California  stations,  and  also 
a  much  cooler  summer  temperature  at  the  same  places  than  at  any  of  the 
foreio-n  places,  except  Corfu.  The  table  speaks  with  more  emphasis  and 
certainty  than  I  can,  and  is  as  follows : 


Month. 


Januiuv .  .  . 
Febiuarv . . 
March. .'.  .  . 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August.  .  .  . 
September. 
October  .  .  . 
November  . 
December. . 

Averages 


H  £  1-1 

2  m 
3jq 

7    M 

£3| 

»   D   C3 
—  fa 

1^' 

z.  ~  ° 

C   fO   ^ 

3g> 

^  3 

3  ® 
52.8 

53.7 

54.4 

54.2 

55.6 

54.2 

55.6 

56.4 

56.0 

57.8 

58.8 

57.9 

61.1 

60.2 

61.0 

64.4 

62.6 

55.5 

67.3 

65.7 

68.3 

68.7 

67.0 

69.5 

66.6 

65.6 

67.5 

62.5 

62.1 

62.7 

58.2 

58.0 

58.8 

55.5 

55.3 

54.8 

60.6 

60.2 

60.4 

C  (J>  -^ 

-I  p 


48.2 
48.5 
52.0 
57.2 
63.0 
70.0 
75.0 
75.0 
69.0 
74.4 
54.0 
49.0 

60.4 


47.2 
50.2 
52.0 
57.0 
62.9 
69.2 
74.3 
73.8 
70.6 
61.8 
58.3 
49.3 

60.1 


53.6 
51.8 
53.6 
58.3 
66.7 
72.3 
67.7 
81.3 
78.8 
70.8 
63.8 
58.4 

65.6 


The  table  on  pages  210  and  211,  "  Extremes  of  Heat  and  Cold," 
is  published  by  the  San  Diego  Land  and  Farm  Company,  whose 
pamphlet  says : 

The  United  States  records  at  San  Diego  Signal  Station  show  that  in 
ten  years  there  were  but  120  days  on  which  the  mercury  passed  80°.  Of 
these  120  there  were  but  41  on  which  it  passed  85°,  but  22  when  it  passed 
90°,  but  four  over  95°,  and  only  one  over  100°  ;  to  wit,  101°,  the  highest 
ever  recorded  here.  During  all  this  time  there  was  not  a  day  on  which 
the  mercury  did  not  fall  to  at  least  Y0°  during  the  night,  and  there  were 
but  five  davs  on  which  it  did  not  fall  even  lower.  During  the  same  ten 
years  there  were  but  six  days  on  which  the  mercury  fell  below  35°.  This 
low  temperature  comes  only  in  extremely  dry  weather  in  winter,  and  lasts 
but  a  few  minutes,  happening  just  before  sunrise.  On  two  of  these  six 
days  it  fell  to  32°  at  daylight,  the  lowest  point  ever  registered  here.  The 
lowest  mid-day  temperature  is  52°,  occurring  only  four  times  in  these  ten 
years.  From  65°  to  70°  is  the  average  temperature  of  noonday  through- 
out the  greater  part  of  the  year. 


January . . . 
February .  . 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August. . . . 
September. 
October  . .  . 
November . 
December. . 

0 

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14 


210 


APPENDIX. 


Observations  made  at  San  Diego  City,  compiled  from  Report 
of  the  Chief  Signal  Officer  of  the  U.  S.  Army. 


Observations  Extending  over  a 

Period  of  Twelve  Years. 

p  5  - 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

g 

a 

g 

-1  D.< 

a  9  % 

(D  P  2 

O   P=  3 

»"<)  p 

0-0   = 

!=   O    5 

D  -->  2 

2.5:  3 

£.  p 

c-3 

ro  5= 

S-i 

«  2 

MONTH. 

=  2, 

So 

P  s 

o 
Co 

5.» 

3"! 

p  p. 

0^  0 
^  < 

0  ■« 

p  "a 
0.  p 

it 

s-i 

D  2 
Cp 

13 

B   g- 

S^3 

B  2 

D.3 

3  ? 
§3 

ll 

c  (B  cr 
1  p  P 

S„3 

m  =*  2. 

•     2  Q 

B  -I 

B  n. 

B  s: 

5  p 

g.  £, 

c  2. 

T  2, 

r*  -k 

B  P 

D."*; 

p.  -! 

T 

^ 

T 

January 

8.5 

11.2 

11.3 

4.1 

5.1 

1.85 

32.0 

78.0 

53.6 

30.027 

Februarv .... 

7.9 

11.3 

9.0 

4.4 

6.0 

2.07 

35.0 

82.6 

54.3 

30.058 

March 

9.6 

12.7 

8.7 

4.8 

6.4 

0.97 

38.0 

99.0 

55.7 

30.004 

April 

7.9 

11.9 

10.2 

4.4 

6.6 

0.68 

39.0 

87.0 

67.7 

29.965 

May 

10.9 

12.1 

8.0 

5.2 

6.7 

0.26 

45.4 

94.0 

61.0 

29.893 

June 

8.1 

15.2 

6.7 

5.0 

6.3 

0.05 

51.0 

94.0 

64.4 

29.864 

Julv 

6.7 

16.1 

8.2 

4.7 

6.3 

0.02 

54.0 

86.0 

67.1 

29.849 

August 

4.7 

16.9 

9.4 

4.1 

6.0 

0.23 

54.0 

86.0 

68.7 

29.894 

September.. . 

4.4 

13.9 

11.7 

3.7 

5.9 

0.05 

49.5 

101.0 

66.8 

29.840 

October 

5.6 

12.6 

12.8 

3.9 

5.4 

0.49 

44.0 

92.0 

62.9 

29.905 

November  . .  . 

6.5 

10.0 

13.5 

3.6 

5.1 

0.70 

38.0 

85.0 

58.3 

29.991 

December  . .  . 

6.6 

11.2 

13.2 

3.7 

5.1 

2.12 

32.0 

82.0 

55.6 

30.009 

Mean  annual. 

87.4 

155.1 

122.7 

4.3 

5.9 

9.49 

42.6 

88.8 

60.5 

29.942 

EXTREMES  OF   HEAT   AND   COLD. 

The  following  table,  taken  from  the  Eeport  of  the  Chief  Sig- 
nal Officer,  shows  the  highest  and  lowest  temperatures  recorded 
since  the  opening  of  stations  of  the  Signal  Service  at  the  points 
named,  for  the  number  of  years  indicated.  An  asterisk  (*)  de- 
notes below  zero : 


Locality  of 
Station. 

S2, 
<  -< 

Jan. 

Feb. 

March. 

April. 

May. 

June. 

p" 
s' 

5' 
3 

F 

S' 
5 

p 

X 

5' 

3 

3 

g 
d' 
3 

g 
p 

X 

3 

B 

3 

p 

X 

3 

g 

B 

3 

c 

S 

c 

c 

B 

rt 

c 

•   0 

3 

3 

3 

y 

3 

g 

3 

3 

3 

3 

3 

3 

Charleston.  S.  C... . 

12 

80 

23 

78 

26 

85 

28 

87 

32 

94 

47 

94 

65 

Denver,  Col 

12 

67 

*29 

72 

*22 

81 

*10 

83 

4 

92 

27 

89 

50 

Jacksonville,  Fla. .  . 

12 

80 

24 

83 

32 

88 

31 

91 

37 

99 

48 

101 

62 

L'SANG'LES,CAL. 

6 

82 

30 

86 

28 

99 

34 

94 

39 

100 

40 

lo*; 

47 

New  Orleans,  La. . . 

13 

78 

20 

80 

33 

84 

37 

86 

38 

92 

56 

97 

65 

Newport,  R.  I 

2 

48 

2 

50 

4 

60 

4 

62 

26 

75 

33 

91 

41 

New  York 

13 

64 

*6 

69 

*4 

72 

*3 

81 

20 

94 

34 

95 

47 

Pensacola,  Fla 

4 

74 

29 

78 

31 

79 

36 

87 

34 

93 

47 

97 

64 

SAN  DIEGO,  CAL.. 

12 

78 

32 

83 

35 

99 

88 

87 

39 

94 

45 

94 

51 

San  Francisco,  Cal. . 

« 

12 

69 

36 

71 

35 

77 

39 

81 

40 

86  1  45 

95 

48 

APPENDIX. 


211 


EXTREMES    OF    HEAT   AND   COLT).— Continued. 


s; 

JCLT. 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Nov. 

Dec. 

Locality  of 
Station. 

OO 

fo 

ST.  0= 

•    o 

1 

c 
3 

1 
g 
5' 
3 

B 

3 

3 

B 

3 

S 
5' 

3' 
c 
3 

X 

3' 
c 
3 

5' 

3 

c 
3 

p 

b' 

s 

3 

5' 

i' 

c 
g 

p 

3 

c 
3 

5' 

i' 

c 
3 

2 
p 

X 

3 

c 
3 

5' 

3' 
s 
3 

Charleston,  S.  C 

12 

94 

69 

96 

69 

94 

64 

89 

49 

81 

33 

78 

22 

Denver,  Col 

12 

91 

59 

93 

60 

93 

51 

84 

38 

73 

23 

69 

1 

Jacksonville,  Fla. .  . 

12 

104 

68 

100 

66 

98 

56 

92 

40 

84 

30 

81 

19 

L'SANG'LES,CAL. 
New  Orleans,  La. .  . 

6 
13 

98 
96 

51 
70 

100 
97 

50 
69 

104 
92 

44 

58 

97 
89 

43 
40 

86 
82 

34 
32 

88 
78 

30 
20 

Newport,  R.  I 

■^ 

87 

56 

85 

45 

77 

39 

75 

29 

62 

17 

56 

*9 

New  York 

13 

99 

57 

96 

53 

100 

36 

83 

31 

74 

7 

66 

*6 

Pensacola,  Fla 

4 

97 

64 

93 

69 

93 

57 

89 

45 

81 

28 

76 

17 

SAN  DIEGO,  CAL. 

12 

86 

54 

86 

54 

101 

60 

92 

44 

85 

88 

82 

32 

San  Francisco,  Cal. . 

12 

83 

49 

89 

50 

92 

50 

84 

45 

78 

41 

68 

34 

STATEMENTS   OF   SMALL   CROPS. 


The  following  statements  of  crops  on  small  pieces  of  ground,  mostly 
in  Los  Angeles  County,  in  1890,  were  furnished  to  the  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce in  Los  Angeles,  and  are  entirely  trustworthy.  Nearly  all  of  them 
bear  date  August  1st.     This  is  a  fair  sample  from  all  Southern  California: 


PEACHES. 


Ernest  Dewey,  Pomona — Golden  Cling  Peaches,  10  acres,  7  years  old, 
produced  47  tons  green  ;  sold  dried  for  $4800;  cost  of  production,  $243.70  ; 
net  profit,  $4556.30.  Soil,  sandy  loam  ;  not  irrigated.  Amount  of  rain,  28 
inches,  winter  of  1889-90. 

H.  H.  Rose,  Santa  Anita  Township  (f  of  a  mile  from  Lamanda  Park) — 2-| 
acres ;  produced  47,543  pounds ;  sold  for  $863.46 ;  cost  of  production, 
$104 ;  net  profit,  $759.46.  Soil,  light  sandy  loam ;  not  irrigated.  Pro- 
duced in  1889  12,000  pounds,  which  sold  at  $1.70  per  100  pounds. 

E.  R.  Thompson,  Azusa  (2  miles  south  of  depot) — 2-^  acres,  233  trees, 
produced  57,655  pounds;  sold  for  $864,82|-;  cost  of  production,  $140 ; 
net  profit,  $724.82^.  Soil,  sandy  loam ;  irrigated  three  times  in  summer, 
1  inPh  to  7  acres.     Trees  7  years  old,  not  more  than  two-thirds  grown. 

P.  O'Connor,  Downey — 20  trees  produced  4000  pounds ;  sold  for  $60  ; 
cost  of  production  $5  ;  net  profit,  $55.  Soil,  sandy  loam ;  not  irrigated. 
Crop  sold  on  the  ground. 

H.  Hood,  Downey  City  (^  of  a  mile  from  depot) — ^  of  an  aero  produced 


212  APPENDIX. 

7|-tons;  sold  for  $150;  cost  of  production,  $10  ;  net  profit,  $140.  Damp 
sandy  soil ;  not  irrigated. 

F.  D.  Smith  (between  Azusa  and  Glendora,  1^  miles  from  depot) — 1  acre 
produced  14,361  pounds;  sold  for  $262.51  ;  cost  of  production,  $20 ;  net 
profit,  $232.51.    Dark  sandy  loam  ;  irrigated  once.    Trees  5  and  6  years  old. 

P.  O.  Johnson,  Ranchito — 17  trees,  10  years  old,  produced  4f  tons  ;  sold 
4|-  tons  for  $120;  cost  of  production,  $10;  net  profit,  $110;  very  little 
irrigation.     Sales  were  -Jc.  per  pound  under  market  rate. 


E.  P.  Naylor  (3  miles  from  Pomona) — 15  acres  produced  149  tons; 
sold  for  $7450;  cost  of  production,  $527;  net  profit,  $6923.  Soil,  loam, 
with  some  sand;  irrigated,  1  inch  per  10  acres. 

W.  H.  Baker,  Downey  (^  of  a  mile  from  depot) — 1^  acres  produced 
12,529  pounds;  sold  for  $551.90;  cost  of  production,  $50;  net  profit, 
$501.90.     Soil,  sandy  loam  ;  not  irrigated. 

Howe  Bros.  (2  miles  from  Lordsburg) — 800  trees,  which  had  received 
no  care  for  2  years,  produced  28  tons;  sold  for  $1400;  cost  of  produc- 
tion, $200;  net  profit,  $1200.  Soil,  gravelly  loam,  red  ;  partially  irrigated. 
Messrs.  Howe  state  that  they  came  into  possession  of  this  place  in  March, 
1890.  The  weeds  were  as  high  as  the  trees  and  the  ground  was  very  hard. 
Only  about  500  of  the  trees  had  a  fair  crop  on  them. 

W.  A.  Spalding,  Azusa — ^  of  an  acre  produced  10,404  pounds ;  sold  for 
$156.06  ;  cost  of  production,  $10  ;  net  profit,  $146.06.     Soil,  sandy  loam. 

E.  A.  Hubbard,  Pomona  (1^  miles  from  depot) — 4^  acres  produced  24 
tons;  sold  green  for  $1080;  cost  of  production,  $280;  net  profit,  $800. 
Soil,  dark  sandy  loam  ;  irrigated.  This  entire  ranch  of  9  acres  was  bought 
in  1884  for  $1575. 

F.  M,  Smith  (1^  miles  east  of  Azusa) — |-  of  an  acre  produced  17,174 
pounds  ;  sold  for  $315.84  ;  cost  of  production,  $25  ;  net  profit,  $290.  Soil, 
deep,  dark  sandy  loam  ;  irrigated  once  in  the  spring.     Trees  5  years  old. 

George  Rhorer  (^  of  a  mile  east  of  North  Pomona) — 13  acres  produced 
88  tons ;  sold  for  $4400  on  the  trees  ;  cost  of  production,  $260 ;  net  profit, 
$4140.  Soil,  gravelly  loam ;  irrigated,  1  inch  to  8  acres.  Trees  planted 
5  years  ago  last  spring. 

J.  S.  Flory  (between  the  Big  and  Little  Tejunga  rivers) — 1^  acres  or  135 
trees  20  feet  apart  each  way ;  100  of  the  trees  4  years  old,  the  balance  of 
the  trees  5  years  old  ;  produced  5230  pounds  dried ;  sold  for  $523  ;  cost 
of  production,  $18;  net  profit,  $505.  Soil,  light  loam,  with  some  sand; 
not  irrigated. 


APPENDIX.  213 

W.  Caruthers  (2  miles  north  of  Downey) — f  of  an  acre  produced  5  tons; 
sold  for  $222;  cost  of  production,  $7.50;  net  profit,  $215.  Soil,  sandy 
loam  ;  not  irrigated.     Trees  4  years  old. 

James  Loney,  Pomona — 2  acres;  product  sold  for  $1150  ;  cost  of  pro- 
duction, $50  ;  net  profit,  $1100.     Soil,  sandy  loam. 

I.  W.  Lord,  Eswena — 5  acres  produced  40  tons  ;  sold  for  $2000  ;  cost  of 
production,  $300  ;  net  profit,  $1700.     Soil,  sandy  loam. 

M.  B.  Moulton,  Pomona — 3  acres;  sold  for  $1873  ;  cost  of  production, 
$215  ;  net  profit,  $1658.     Soil,  deep  sandy  loam.     Trees  9  years  old. 

Ernest  Dewey,  Pomona — 6  acres  produced  38  tons  green;  dried,  at  10 

cents  a  pound,  $3147  ;  cost  of  production,  $403  ;  profit,  $2734.     Soil,  sandy 

loam  ;  irrigated  one  inch  to  10  acres.      Sixty  per  cent,  increase  over  former 
year. 

C.  S.  Ambrose,  Pomona — 12  acres  produced  77  tons  ;  $50  per  ton  gross, 

$3850;  labor  of  one  hand  one  year,  $150;  profit,  $3700.    Soil,  gravelly; 

very  little  irrigation.    Prunes  sold  on  trees. 


Joachim  F.  Jarchow,  San  Gabriel — 2^  acres;  10-year  trees;  product 
sold  for  $1650  ;  cost  of  production  $100,  including  cultivation  of  7-^  acres, 
not  bearing;  net  profit,  $1550. 

F.  D.  Smith,  Azusa — 6^  acres  produced  600  boxes;  sold  for  $1200; 
cost  of  production,  $130;  net  profit,  $10/0.  Soil,  dark  sandy  loam;  irri- 
gated three  times.     Trees  4  years  old. 

George  Lightfoot,  South  Pasadena — 5^  acres  produced  700  boxes ; 
sold  for  $1100;  cost  of  production,  $50;  net  profit,  $1050.  Soil,  rich, 
sandy  loam  ;  irrigated  once  a  year. 

H.  Hood,  Downey — ^  of  an  acre  produced  275  boxes;  sold  for  $275; 
cost  of  production,  $25  ;  net  profit,  $250.     Soil,  damp,  sandy;  not  irrigated. 

W.  G.  Earle,  Azusa — 1  acre  produced  210  boxes  ;  sold  for  $262  ;  cost  of 
production,  $15  ;  net  profit,  $247.     Soil,  sandy  loam  ;  irrigated  four  times. 

Nathaniel  Hayden,  Vernon — 4  acres;  986  boxes  at  $1.20  per  box; 
sales,  $1182  ;  cost  of  production,  $50  ;  net  profit,  $1132.  Loam  ;  irrigated. 
Other  products  on  the  4  acres. 

H.  O.  Fosdick,  Santa  Ana — 1  acre;  6  years  old;  350  boxes;  sales, 
$700 ;  cost  of  production  and  packing,  $50 ;  net  profit,  $650.  Loam  ; 
irrigated. 

J.  H.  Isbell,  Rivera — 1  acre,  82  trees;  16  years  old  ;  sales,  $600;  cost 
of  production,  $25  ;  profit,  $575.  Irrigated.  $1.10  per  box  for  early  de- 
livery, $1.65  for  later. 


214  APPENDIX. 


William  Bernhard,  Monte  Vista — 10  acres  produced  25  tons;  sold  for 
$750;  cost  of  production,  $70 ;  net  profit,  $680.  Soil,  heavy  loam;  not 
irrigated.     Vines  5  years  old. 

Dillon,  Kennealy  &  McClure,  Burbank  (1  mile  from  Roscoe  Station) — 
200  acres  produced  90,000  gallons  of  wine  ;  cost  of  production,  $5000 ; 
net  profit,  about  $30,000.  Soil,  sandy  loam ;  not  irrigated ;  vineyard  in 
very  liealthy  condition. 

P.  O'Connor  (2^  miles  south  of  Dovk^ney) — 12  acres  produced  100 
tons;  sold  for  $1500  ;  cost  of  production,  $360;  net  profit,  $1140.  Soil, 
sandy  loam;  not  irrigated.  Vines  planted  in  1884,  when  the  land  would 
not  sell  for  $100  per  acre. 

J.  K.  Banks  (If  miles  from  Downey) — 40  acres  produced  250  tons; 
sold  for  $3900  ;  cost  of  production,  $1300  ;  net  profit,  $2600.  Soil,  sandy 
loam. 

BERRIES. 

W.  Y.  Earle  (2^  miles  from  Azusa) — Strawberries,  2^  acres  produced 
15,000  boxes;  sold  for  $750;  cost  of  production,  $225  ;  net  profit,  $525. 
Soil,  sandy  loam ;  irrigated.  Shipped  3000  boxes  to  Ogden,  Utah,  and 
6000  boxes  to  Albuquerque  and  El  Paso. 

Benjamin  Norris,  Pomona — Blackberries,  ^  of  an  acre  produced  2500 
pounds  ;  sold  for  $100  ;  cost  of  production,  $5  ;  net  profit,  $95.  Soil,  light 
sandy ;  irrigated. 

S.  H.  Eye,  Covina — Raspberries,  |^  of  an  acre  produced  1800  pounds; 
sold  for  $195;  cost  of  production,  $85;  net  profit,  $110.  Soil,  sandy 
loam ;  irrigated. 

J.  0.  Houser,  Covina — Blackberries,  ^  of  an  acre  produced. 648  pounds; 
sold  for  $71,28;  cost  of  production,  $18;  net  profit,  $53.28.  Soil,  sandy 
loam  ;  irrigated.     First  year's  crop. 

APRICOTS. 

T.  D.  Leslie  (1  mile  from  Pomona) — 1  acre  produced  10  tons;  sold 
for  $250  ;  cost  of  production,  $60  ;  net  profit,  $190.  Soil,  loose,  gravelly ; 
irrigated;  1  inch  to  10  acres.     First  crop. 

George  Lightfoot,  South  Pasadena — 2  acres  produced  11  tons;  sold 
for  $260;  cost  of  production,  $20;  net  profit,  $240.  Soil,  sandy  loam; 
not  irrigated. 

T.  D.  Smith,  Azusa — 1  acre  produced  13,555  pounds;  sold  for  $169.44; 
cost  of  production,  $25;  net  profit,  $144.44.  Soil,  sandy  loam;  irrigated 
once.     Trees  5  years  old. 


APPENDIX.  215 

W.  Y.  Earle  (2^  miles  from  Azusa) — 6  acres  produced  G  tons ;  sold  for 
$350;  cost  of  production,  $25;  net  profit,  $325.  Soil,  sandy  loam;  not 
irrigated.     Trees  3  years  old. 

W.  A.  Spalding,  Azusa — 335  trees  produced  15,478  pounds;  sold  for 
$647.43  ;  cost  of  production,  $50  ;  net  profit,  $597.43.     Soil,  sandy  loam. 

Mrs.  Winkler,  Pomona — f  of  an  acre,  90  trees ;  product  sold  for  $381 ; 
cost  of  production,  $28.40;  net  profit,  $352.60.  Soil,  sandy  loam;  not 
irrigated.     Only  help,  small  boys  and  girls. 

MISCELLANEOUS    FRUITS. 

E.  A.  Bonine,  Lamanda  Park  —  Apricots,  nectarines,  prunes,  peaches, 
and  lemons,  30  acres  produced  160  tons;  sold  for  $8000;  cost  of  pro- 
duction, $1500  ;  net  profit,  $6500.     No  irrigation. 

J.  P.  Fleming  (1^  miles  from  Rivera) — Walnuts,  40  acres  produced 
12^  tons;  sold  for  $2120;  cost  of  production,  $120  ;  net  profit,  $2000. 
Soil,  sandy  loam  ;  not  irrigated. 

George  Liglitfoot,  South  Pasadena  —  Lemons,  2  acres  produced  500 
boxes ;  sold  for  $720 ;  cost  of  production,  $20  ;  net  profit,  $700.  Soil,  rich 
sandy  loam  ;  not  irrigated.     Trees  10  years  old. 

W.  A.  Spalding,  Azusa — Nectarines,  96  trees  produced  19,378  pounds; 
sold  for  $242.22  ;  cost  of  production,  $35  ;  net  profit,  $207.22.  Soil,  sandy 
loam. 

F.  D.  Smith,  Azusa — Nectarines,  If  acres  produced  36,350  pounds; 
sold  for  $363.50  ;  cost  of  production,  $35  ;  net  profit,  $318.50.  Soil,  deep 
dark  sandy  loam  ;  irrigated  once  in  spring.     Trees  5  and  6  years  old. 

C.  D.  Ambrose  (4  miles  north  of  Pomona) — Pears,  3  acres  produced 
33,422  pounds  ;  sold  green  for  $1092.66  ;  cost  of  production,  $57  ;  net 
profit,  $1035.66.     Soil,  foot-hill  loam;  partly  irrigated. 

N.  Hayden — Statement  of  amount  of  fruit  taken  from  4  acres  for  one 
season  at  Vernon  District:  985  boxes  oranges,  15  boxes  lemons,  8000 
pounds  apricots,  2200  pounds  peaches,  200  pounds  loquats,  2500  pounds 
nectarines,  4000  pounds  apples,  1000  pounds  plums,  1000  pounds  prunes, 
1000  pounds  figs,  150  pounds  walnuts,  500  pounds  pears.  Proceeds, 
$1650.  A  family  of  five  were  supplied  with  all  the  fruit  they  wanted  be- 
sides the  above. 

POTATOES. 

O.  Bullis,  Compton — 28f  acres  produced  3000  sacks;  sold  for  $3000; 
cost  of  production,  $500  ;  net  profit,  $2500.  Soil,  peat;  not  irrigated. 
This  land  has  been  in  potatoes  3  years,  and  will  be  sown  to  cabbages,  thus 
producing  two  crops  this  year. 


216  APPENDIX. 

P.  F.  Cogswell,  El  Monte  —  25  acres  produced  150  tons;  sold  for 
$3400;  cost  of  production,  $450;  net  profit,  $2950.  Soil,  sediment;  not 
irrigated. 

M.  Metcalf,  El  Monte — 8  acres  produced  64  tons ;  sold  for  $900  ;  cost 
of  production,  $50  ;  net  profit,  $850.     Soil,  sandy  loam  ;  not  irrigated. 

Jacob  Vernon  (1^  miles  from  Covina) — 3  acres  produced  400  sacks ; 
sold  for  $405.88  ;  cost  of  production,  $5  ;  net  profit,  $400.88.  Soil,  sandy- 
loam  ;  irrigated  one  acre.     Two-thirds  of  crop  was  volunteer. 

H.  Hood,  Downey — Sweet  potatoes,  1  acre  produced  300  sacks  ;  sold 
for  $300;  cost  of  production,  $30 ;  net  profit,  $270.  Soil,  sandy  loam; 
not  irrigated. 

C.  C.  Stub,  Savannab  (1  mile  from  depot) — 10  acres  produced  1000 
s  sacks ;  sold  for  $2000  ;  cost  of  production,  $100  ;  net  profit,  $1900,  Soil, 
sandy  loam ;  not  irrigated.  A  grain  crop  was  raised  on  the  same  land  this 
year. 

ONIONS. 

F.  A.  Atwater  and  C.  P.  Eldridge,  Clearwater — 1  acre  produced  211 
sacks;  sold  for  $211;  cost  of  production,  $100  ;  net  profit,  $111.  Soil, 
sandy  loam;  no  irrigation.  At  present  prices  the  onions  would  have 
brought  $633. 

Charles  Lauber,  Downey — 1  acre  produced  113  sacks;  sold  for  $642  ; 
cost  of  production,  $50 ;  net  profit,  $592.  No  attention  was  paid  to  the 
cultivation  of  this  crop.  Soil,  sandy  loam ;  not  irrigated.  At  present 
prices  the  same  onions  would  have  brought  $803. 

MISCELLANEOUS  VEGETABLES. 

Eugene  Lassene,  University — Pumpkins,  5  acres  produced  150  loads; 
sold  for  $4  per  load  ;  cost  of  production,  $3  per  acre ;  net  profit,  $585.  Soil, 
sandy  loam.     A  crop  of  barley  was  raised  from  the  same  land  this  year. 

P.  K.  Wood,  Clearwater  —  Pea-nuts,  3  acres  produced  5000  pounds ; 
sold  for  $250  ;  cost  of  production,  $40  ;  net  profit,  $210.  Soil,  light  sandy ; 
not  irrigated.     Planted  too  deep,  and  got  about  one-third  crop. 

Oliver  E,  Roberts  (Terrace  Farm,  Cahuenga  Valley) — 3  acres  tomatoes  ; 
sold  product  for  $461.75.  Soil,  foot-hill;  not  irrigated;  second  crop, 
watermelons.  One-half  acre  green  peppers ;  sold  product  for  $54.30.  1^ 
acres  of  green  peas;  sold  product  for  $220.  17  fig-trees;  first  crop  sold 
for  $40.     Total  product  of  5^  acres,  $776.05. 

Jacob  Miller,  Cahuenga — Green  peas,  10  acres;  43,615  pounds;  sales, 
$3052  ;  cost  of  production  and  marketing,  $500  ;  profit,  $2552.  Soil,  foot- 
hill ;  not  irrigated.     Second  crop,  melons. 


APPENDIX.  217 

"W.  W.  Bliss,  Duarte  —  Honey,  215  stands;  15,000  pounds;  sales, 
$785.     Mountain  district.     Bees  worth  $1  to  $3  per  stand. 

James  Stewart,  Downey — Figs,  3  acres;  20  tons,  at  $50,  $1000.  Not 
irrigated;  26  inches  rain;  1  acre  of  trees  16  years  old,  2  acres  5  years. 
Figs  sold  on  trees. 

The  mineral  wealth  of  Southern  California  is  not  yet  appreciated. 
Among  the  rare  minerals  which  promise  much  is  a  very  large  deposit  of 
tin  in  the  Temescal  Canon,  below  South  Riverside.  It  is  in  the  hands  of 
an  English  company.  It  is  estimated  that  there  are  23  square  miles  rich 
in  tin  ore,  and  it  is  said  that  the  average  yield  of  tin  is  20:^  per  cent. 


INDEX. 


AcAMO,  165,  170. 

Adenostoma,  205. 

Africa,  18. 

Aiken,  South  Carolina,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Ailantus,  134. 

Alaska,  34. 

Albuquerque,  New  Mexico,  165. 

temperature  of,  207. 

Alfalfa,  23,  98,  101,  204. 
Alfileria,  203,  206. 
Algier-s,  Temperature  of,  207. 
AUiambra,  124. 
Almond,  18,  19,  101. 
Alpine  pass,  1. 
Amalfi,  30. 
Ambrose,  C.  D.,  215. 
Ambrose,  Ernest,  213. 

Anacapa,  2. 

Anaheim,  134. 

Antelope,  114,  188. 

Apples,  19,  96,  97,  127. 

prices  and  profits,  215. 

San  Diego,  97. 

Apricots,  18,  19,  43,  92. 

prices  and  profits,  214,  215. 

Arcadian  Station,  126. 

Arizona,  5,  149,  164,  173,  177. 

Cattle  Company,  186. 

desert,  79. 

Arrow-head  Hot  Springs,  117. 

Artist  Point,  154. 

Atlantic,  5,  18,  47,  165,  198. 

At  water,  F.  A.,  216. 

Aubrey  sandstones,  195. 

Australian  lady-bug,  129. 

navels,  120. 

Azusa,  211-215. 

Baker,  W.  H.,  212. 
Baldwin  plantation,  127. 
Banana,  19,  134. 
Bancroft,  H.  H.,  56. 
Banks,  J.  K.,  214. 
Banning,  96. 


Barley,  8,  14,  25,  138. 

prices  and  profits,  216. 

Beans,  138. 

Bear  Valley  Dam,  117,  118. 

Bees,  217. 

Bell-flower,  204. 

Bernhard,  William,  214. 

Berries,  141. 

Big  Tejunga  River,  212. 

Big  Trees  (Mariposa),  150,  156-161. 

Birch,  134. 

Blackberries — prices  and  profits,  214. 

Bliss,  W.W.,  217. 

Bohemia  Toplitz  waters,  163. 

Bonine,  E.  A.,  215. 

Boston,  Massachusetts,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Bozenta  (Count),  134. 

Brandy,  136. 

Breezes,  70,  123,  184,  203.     (See  Winds.) 

Bright  Angel  Amphitheatre,  195. 

Buenaventura,  138. 

Bullis,  0.,  215. 

Burbank,  214. 

Cactus,  69,  165. 

Cadiz,  Spain,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Cahuenga  Valley,  216. 

Cairo,  Egypt,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Capri,  30,  80. 

Carlisle  school,  168. 

Carlsbad,  163. 

Carrot  (wilii),  206. 

Caruthers,  W.,  213. 

Citaract  Canon,  182. 

Cedars,  185,  186. 

Cei-eals,  1 2.     (See  Grains.) 

Chalcedony  Park,  183. 

Chamber  of  Commerce,  Los  Angeles,  211. 

San  Diego,  143. 

Ciiaparral,  81,  202,  205,  206. 

Charleston,  South  Carolina,  Temperature  of, 

210,  211. 
Chautauqua.  The,  76. 
Chemisal,  202. 


220 


INDEX. 


Cherries,  43. 

Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  A.,  Report  of,  210. 
China  trade,  142. 
Chorizanthe,  206. 
Chula  Vista,  144. 
Clearwater,  216. 

Climate,  4-6,  9,  29,  43,  45,  48,  130,  140, 142, 
146. 

adapted  to  health,  29,  37,  38,  45,  46. 

adapted  to  recreation,  70. 

conopared  to  European,  5  ;  to  Italian, 

18  ;  to  Mediterranean,  18  ;  to  Tangierian, 
46. 

discussed  and  described,  10,  38,  44,  45. 

affected  by  ocean  and  deserts,  4,  8,  29, 

45. 

effect  on  character,  88. 

effect  on  disease,  50. 

effect  on  fruits,  10. 

effect  on  horses,  55. 

effect  on  longevity,  56,  59,  62. 

effect  on  seasons,  10,  43,  65,  66. 

Hufeland  on,  52. 

insular,  76. 

in  various  altitudes,  46. 

Johnson  (Dr.)  on,  201. 

of  Coronado  Beach,  47,  81,  87. 

of  New  Mexico,  164. 

of  Pasadena,  130, 

of  San  Diego,  49. 

of  winter,  43,  48. 

Van  Dyke  on,  6,  78. 

Climatic  regions,  4. 

Clover.  204. 

Cogswell,  P  F.,  216. 

Colorado  desert,  2-5,  6,  33,  34,  46. 

Grand  Canon,  149.  (See  Grand  C;inon. 

Plateau,  182. 

description  of,  177. 

River,  8,  197,  199. 

course  described,  177. 

Columbine,  206. 

Como,  1. 

Compton,  215. 

Concord  coach,  184. 

Cooper,  Elhvood,  125. 

Corfu,  Temperature  of,  208. 

Corn,  9,  12,  14,  25,  98. 

Coronado  Beach,  29,  33,  47,  87,  202. 

climate,  47,  81,  87. 

Description  of,  80-87. 

Islands,  30. 

Vasques  de,  32,  165. 

Covina,  214,  216. 

Cremation  among  Indians,  60. 

Crossthwaite,  Philip,  Longevity  of,  61. 

Crowfoot,  204. 

Crucifers,  204. 

Cucumbers,  205. 

Cuyamaca  (monntain\  6,  18,  33,  37. 

(reservoir),  144. 


Cypress  (Monterey),  49,  82,  130. 
— —  Point  (tree),' 161. 

description  of,  162. 

Cvpriote  ware,  169. 
Cvi)rus,  82,  134. 

Daisy,  206. 

Dandelion,  205. 

Date  (palms),  19,  42,  49,  85,  134. 

Denver,  Colorado,  Temperature  of,  207,  210, 

211. 
Deserts,  2-7,  34,  79. 

affecting  climate,  4,  8,  29,  45. 

describing  beauty  of,  175. 

Dewev,  Ernest,  211,  213. 

Dew-falls,  123. 

Dillon,  Kennealy  &  McClure,  214. 

District  of  the  Grand  Canon — area  described, 

177. 
Downey,  211-214,  216,  217. 

Citv,  211. 

Duarte,  217. 

Dutton,  Captain  C.  E.,  181,  194,  198. 

Earle,  W.  G.,  213. 

Earle,  W.  y.,  214,  215. 

East  San  Gabriel  Hotel,  127. 

Eaton  Canon,  130. 

Egypt,  173. 

El  Cajon,  37,  56,  79,  111,  144. 

El  Capitan,  154. 

Eldridge,  C.  P.,  216. 

Elm,  134. 

El  Monte,  216. 

English  Walnut,  18,  19,  34,  48,  101,  129, 

134. 
Escondido,  140,  141. 
Eswena,  213. 

Eucalvptus,  23,  48,  112,  123,  134. 
Eye,  S.  H.,  214. 

Fan-palm,  49,  134. 

Fern  (Australiiin),  123,  205. 

Fig,  18,  19,  34,  101,  141,  144,  147. 

cultivation  discussed,  34. 

prices  and  profits,  215-217. 

Flagstaff,  182,  183,  199. 
Fleming,  J  P.,  215. 
Florence  Hotel,  80. 
Florence,  Italv,  Temperature  of,  207. 
Florv,  J   S.,  212. 
Fogs,  4,  8,  38,  47,  123. 
Fort  Yuma,  Califoriiiii,  Temperature  of,  207. 
Fosdick,  H.  0.,  213. 
Foxtail,  206. 
Franciscan  Fathers,  42. 
Franciscan  missions,  24. 
Fresno,  115,  128. 
Frosts,  10,  19,  123. 

Fruits,  9,  12,  13,  15,  18,  20,  37,  43,  46,  47, 
96,  141,  144,  198. 


INDEX. 


221 


Fruits  compared  to  European,  18. 

cultivation  and  speculation  discussed, 

20,  93,  107,  140. 

great  roi^ioii  for,  91. 

groupeii,  18,  19,  92,  94-96,  101,  115, 

]'27.  211-217. 

lauds  adapted  to,  37,  46,  96. 

urchards,  67,  165. 

rapid  growth  of,  115. 

River.side  nietiiod  for,  104. 

winter,  48. 

Fundgation,  Cost  of,  124,  129. 
Funcluil,  Madeira,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Gardens,  46,  67,  147,  165. 

Geraniums,  49. 

Glendora,  212. 

Golden  Gate,  42. 

Gooseberry,  205. 

Government  land,  93. 

Grain,  12,  14,  15,  19,  23,  25,  140. 

Grand  Canon,  149,  178,  181. 

area  of  district  of,  177. 

description  of,  181,  182,  190-200. 

journey  to  the,  182-190. 

Grape.s  15,  18,  19,  92,  93,  98,  101. 

diseases  of,  128. 

Old  Mission,  128. 

prices  and  profits  of,  96. 

raisin.     (See  Raisins.) 

Grape-vines,  79,  91,  123. 

on  small  farms,  107. 

prices  and  profits  of,  96. 

Santa  Aiuta,  127. 

Gravback  (mountain),  34,  46. 
Great  Wash  fault,  178,  182. 
Grevillea  robiista,  123. 
Guava,  19,  134. 
Gums,  138. 

Hance  (guide),  198,  199. 

Harvard  Observatory,  130. 

Hawaii  Islands,  5. 

Hayden,  Nathaidel,  213,  215. 

Helianthus,  206, 

Heliotrope,  10,  41,  49. 

Hesperia,  96. 

Hindoo  Amphitheatre,  195. 

Holbrook,  183. 

Honey — prices  and  profits  of,  217. 

Honeysuckle,  205. 

Hood"  H.,  211,  213,  216. 

Horses,  55,  70. 

Hotel  del  Coronado,  29,  87. 

del  Monte  Park,  161. 

Ravmond,  79,  130,  133. 

Hot  Springs  (Las  Vegas),  163,  164. 
Houser,  J.  0.,  214. 
Houses,  Suggestions  on,  68. 
Howe  Bros.,  212. 
Hubbard.  E.  A.,  212. 


Hufeland,  on  climate  and  health,  52. 
Humidity,  38,  43. 
Huntington,  Dr.,  50. 
Hurricane  Ledge  or  Fault,  182. 

Icerya  purchasi,  129. 

Indiana  settlement,  94. 

Indians,  55,  187,  188 

affected  by  climate,  55. 

converted  by  missionaries,  24. 

longevity  of,  59. 

Mojave,  2,  169. 

Navajos,  170,  183. 

Oualapai,  188. 

Pueblo,  165. 

at  Acamo,  165. 

at  Isleta,  165. 

at  Laguna,  165-173. 

Ingo  County,  34. 

Inspiration  Point,  150,  154. 

Iris,  204. 

Irrigation,  97,  117,  147,  165. 

at  Pasadena,  130. 

at  Pomona,  15,  94,  124,  211,  215. 

at  Redlands,  102,  104,  118. 

at  San  Diego,  144. 

at  Santa  Ana,  134. 

by  companies,  94. 

by  natural  means,  11,  14,  37. 

cost  of,  98. 

for   apricots,  berries,   grapes,  onions, 

oranges,  peaches,  potatoes,  prunes,  vege- 
tables, 211-217. 

for  orchards,  120. 

for  wheat,  100. 

in  relation  to  fruits  and  crops,  19,  99, 

100,  101. 

necessity  of,  15,  19,  88. 

results  of,  discussed,  12,  14,  15. 

Riverside  method  of,  102,  104. 

three  methods  of,  102. 

Van  Dyke  on,  102,  103. 

Isbell,  J.  H.,  213. 

Ischia,  30. 

Isleta,  165. 

Istlimus  route,  142. 

It;ily,  1,  2,  4,  18,  68,  69,  75,  87.  (See  Our 
Italy.) 

Ives,  Lieutenant,  181. 

Jacksonville,  Florida,  Temperature  of,  207, 

210,  211. 
Japanese  persimmon,  184. 
Japan  trade,  142. 
Jarchom,  Joachim  F.,  213. 
Joimson,  Dr.  H.  A.,  on  climate,  201. 
Johnson,  P.  0.,  212. 
Josephites,  117. 
Julian  (rainfall),  48. 

Kaibab  Plateau,  178,  181,  182. 


222 


INDEX. 


Kanab  Canon,  178,  182. 
Kanab  Plateau,  178,  181,  182. 
Kelp,  33,  161. 
Kentucky  racers,  55. 
Kern  County,  16,  94,  114. 
Kimball,  F.  A.,  125. 
King  River,  114. 

Labor,  "  boom  "  prices  of,  109. 

necessity  of,  108. 

Ladies'  Annex,  143. 
Laguna — climate  of,  174. 

description  of,  165-168. 

Indians  at,  165-173. 

Lamanda  Park,  215. 

Land,  12,  14,  23,  147. 

adapted  to   apricots,    berries,    grapes, 

onions,  oranges,  peaches,  potatoes,  prunes, 

vegetables,  211-217. 

adapted  to  fruits,  97,  141. 

arable,  93,  140,  142,  145. 

capabilities  of,  17,  91-95,  114. 

converted  from  deserts,  94. 

crops  adapted  to,  108. 

elements  constituting  value  of.  95. 

experiments  of  settlers  on.  111. 

for  farms  and  gardens,  107. 

Government,  93. 

of  the  Sun,  147,  202. 

profits  and  prices  of,  20,  23,  95-98,  117. 

raisin,  114. 

speculations  in,  24,  107,  143. 

La  Playa,  33. 

Larkspur,  205,  206. 

Las  riores,  140. 

Lassene,  Eugene,  216. 

Las  Vegas  Hot  Springs,  163,  164. 

Lauber,  Charles,  216. 

Lee's  Ferry,  199. 

Lemons,  i,  18,  19,  79,  93,  107,  129,  137,  144. 

Leslie,  T.  D.,  214. 

Lightfoot,  George,  213,  214. 

Lilac,  205. 

Lilies,  204,  206. 

Limes,  18. 

Lisbon,  Portugal,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Little  Colorado  River,  177,  181,  182. 

Little  Tejunga  River,  212. 

Live-oaks,  49,  69,  72,  79,  127,  134,  140,  161. 

Locust,  134. 

Lombardy,  1. 

Loney,  James,  213. 

Longevity  at  El  Cajon,  56. 

at  San  Diego,  59,  60. 

climatic  influence  on,  56,  59,  62. 

Dr.  Bancroft  on,  56. 

Dr.  Palmer  on,  59,  60. 

Dr.  Remondino  on,  52. 

Dr.  Winder  on,  56. 

Father  Ubach  on,  59,  62. 

Hufeland  on,  52. 


Longevity,  Philip  Crossthwaite,  Story  of,  61. 
Loquats,  21. 

prices  and  profits  of,  215. 

Lord,  L  W.,  213. 

Lordsburg,  212. 

Los  Angeles,  12,  15,  16,  26,  46,  71,  76,  79, 

94,  95,  97,  124,  128,  129,  133-135. 
assessment  roll  and  birth  rate  of, 

136. 
climate  of,  12,  15,  26,  76,  79,  95, 

124,  129,  133. 

County,  211. 

description  of,  135,  136. 

report  of  Chamber  of  Commerce 

of,  207,  211. 

River,  11,  99. 

temperature  of,  44,  207,  210,  211. 

wines,  136. 

Los  Coronados,  2.  ^ 

Lupins,  205. 

Maggiore,  1. 

Magnolia,  41,  48,  123. 

Maguey,  69. 

Malta,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Manitoba,  5. 

Manzanita,  205. 

Maple,  134. 

Marble  Canon,  177. 

Marguerites,  82. 

Marienbad,  163. 

Marigold,  205. 

Mariposa  (big  trees),  150,  156-161, 

Martinique,  48. 

Mediterranean — climate  of  the,  37,  46,  80. 

fruits  and  products  of  the,  18. 

Our,  18,  46. 

Mentone,  6. 

temperature  of,  207,  208. 

Merjced  River,  150,  155. 
Meserve  plantation,  124. 
Metcalf,  M.,  216. 
Methusaleh  of  trees,  158. 
Mexican  Gulf,  18. 

ranch  house,  67. 

Mexico,  2,  11,  30,  33,  40,  47. 

small-pox  from,  64. 

Miller,  Jacob,  216. 

Mimulus,  205. 

Minerals,  142. 

Minneapolis,  Minnesota,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Mint,  205,  206. 

Mirror  Lake,  154. 

Mission  Caiion,  75. 

of  San  Diego,  60. 

of  San  Tomas,  60. 

Mississippi  Valley,  38. 
Modjeska,  Madame,  134. 
Moisture  in  relation  to  health,  201. 
Mojave  Desert,  2,  7. 
Indians,  7,  169. 


INDEX. 


223 


Montecito  (Santa  Barbara),  123. 
Monterey,  42,  47,  49,  72,  149. 
cypress,  82,  130. 

description  of,  1(31,  162. 

Monte  Vista,  214. 
Montezuma,  164. 

Hotel,  163. 

Monticello,  75. 
Mormons,  117. 
Morning-glory,  205. 
Moulton,  M.  B.,  213. 
Mount  Whitney,  34. 

Wilson,  iso. 

Murillo — pictures  hv,  26. 
Mustard  stalks,  202. 
Miitterlager,  163. 

Naples,  34. 

Nassau,   Bahama  Islands,  Temperature  of, 

207. 
National  City,  33,  79,  1 25,  144. 

Soldiers'  Home,  76. 

Navajo  Indians,  170,  183 

Mountains,  196. 

NayJor,  E.  P.,  212. 
Neiili  Bay,  47.  76. 
Nebraska,  175. 
Nectarines,  19,  92. 

prices  and  profits  of,  215. 

Nevadas,  34,  150. 

New  Me.xico,  79,  164,  173. 

climate  of,  164. 

desert  of,  149. 

scenery  of,  163-165. 

New    Orleans,    Louisiana,    Temperature   of, 

207,  210,  211. 
Newport,    Rhode   Island,    Temperature    of, 

210,  211. 
New  York,  N.  Y.,  Temperature  of,  207,  210, 

211. 
Niagara  Fulls,  153,  197. 
Nice,  207. 
Nightshade,  206. 
Norris,  Benjamin,  214. 
Northern  Africa,  69. 

Arizona,  177. 

Pomona,  212. 

Nuts,  18,  138. 

Oats,  206. 

O'Connor,  P.,  211,  214. 
Old  Baldv  Mountain,  4. 
Olives,  1,'  18,  19,  24,  37,  115,  129,  134,  147, 
162. 

at  Pomona,  125. 

at  Santa  Barbara,  37._ 

Cooper  on,  125. 

■ cultivation  of,  discussed,  19,  37,  125. 

future  of,  125,  126. 

Mission,  125,  126. 

prices  and  profits  of,  126. 


Onions — prices  and  profits  of,  216. 
Ontario,  15,  124. 
Orange  City,  46. 

description  of,  134. 

County,  16,  46,  79,  111,  134. 

Oranges,  10,  11,  15,   16,  18,  19,  25,  66.  79, 

93,  101,  107,  108,  115,  123,  129,  138,  144. 

as  resource,  91. 

at  Redlands,  119. 

cost  of  land  for,  97. 

diseases  and  care  of,  101,  129,  137. 

groves,  20,  118,  123,  127. 

irrigation  for,  213. 

prices  and  profits  of,  97,  107,  119,  120, 

124,  213,  215. 

Riverside  as  centre,  119. 

varieties  of,  120,  123. 

Orchards,  20,  24,  41,  144,  147. 

Orchids,  205. 

Orthocarpus,  204. 

Otay,  145. 

Ottoman  Amphitheatre,  195. 

Oualapai  Indians,  188. 

Our  Italy,  Description  of,  18. 

Pacific,  2-5,  8,  16,  29,  58,  75,  142,  165,  198. 

trade,  142. 

Painted  Desert,  185,  186. 

Palmer,  Dr.  Edward,  59,  60. 

Palms,  41,  42,  67,  69,  85,  123,  130,  134. 

date,  42,  49,  69,  85. 

fan,  49. 

royal,  55,  85. 

Paria  Plateau,  178. 

Pasadena,  15,  67,  94,  95,  124,  ISO. 

Board  of  Trade,  207. 

climate,  130. 

description  of,  130-134. 

temperature  of,  133,  207. 

trees  of,  134. 

Passion-vine,  49. 

Pau,  France,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Peach,  92,  101,  182,  211. 

prices  and  profits  of,  211,  212,  215. 

Peachblow  Mountain,  185. 
Pea-nuts — [)rices  and  profits  of,  216. 
Pears — prices  and  profits  of,  215. 
Pensacola,  Florida,  Temperature  of,  210,  21L 
Penstemon,  205. 
Pepper,  48,  67,  123,  134. 

prices  and  profits  of,  216. 

Peruvians,  169. 

Pineapple,  19. 

Pines,- 42,  72,  134,  185,  188-190. 

spruce,  182. 

sugar,  42,  150,  157. 

Pink  Cliffs,  178. 
Plums,  92. 

prices  and  profits  of,  215. 

Point  Arguilles,  4. 

Conception,  2-4,  47,  72,  137. 


224 


INDEX. 


Point  Loma,  8,  30,  33,  81. 

. Sublime,  181,  198. 

Vincent,  76. 

Pomegranate,  19,  134. 

Pomona,  15,  94,  95,  124,  211-215. 

description  of,  124. 

irrij^ation  at,  15,  94,  95,  124,  211-215. 

land  at,  94. 

olives  at,  125. 

temperature  of,  7,  44. 

Poplar,  134. 
Poppy,  204-206. 
Portuguese  hamlet,  33. 
Potatoes,  14. 

prices  and  profits  of,  215. 

Powell,  Major  J.  W.,  181. 
Profitable  products  discussed,  19. 
Prometheus  Unbound,  178. 
Prunes,  18,  93,  96,  115. 

prices  and  profits  of,  212,  213,  215. 

Pueblo  Indians,  165-li33. 

Puenta,  124. 

Paget  Sound,  47. 

Pumpkins — prices  and  profits  of,  216. 

Qdail,  8, 140. 

Rabbits,  140. 

Rain,  12,  38,  47,  48,  49,  123,  138,  202,  203, 
206. 

at  Julian,  Los  Angeles,  Monterey,  Neali 

Bay,  Point  Conception,  Riverside,  Sant-i 
Cruz,  San  Diego,  San  Jacinto,  47,  202. 

in  relation  to  healtli,  202. 

on  deserts  described,  187. 

season  for,  47. 

Rainbow  Fall,  154. 

Raisin  grape,  144. 

Raisins,  18,  19,  93,  108,  136. 

at  Los  Angeles,  136. 

at  Redlands,  119. 

curing,  107. 

Malaga,  37. 

prices  and  profits  of,  96,  114,  115. 

Ranchito,  212. 

Raspberries — prices  and  profits  of,  214. 

Raymond  Hotel,  133,  149. 

Red  Horse  Well,  186,  187. 

Redlands,  15,  95-97,  124. 

centre  for  oranges,  119. 

description  of,  118,  121-123. 

■ history  of  growth  of,  118. 

irrigation  of,  102-104,  118. 

resources  of,  120. 

— —  return  on  fruits,  97,  98,  124. 

Redondo,  3. 

Beach,  12. 

description  of,  76. 

Red  Wall  limestone,  195. 

Redwood,  134. 

Remondino,  Dr.,  40,  52,  56,  59,  60. 


Remondino,  Dr.,on  health,  62. 

on  horses,  55,  61. 

on  longevity,  40,  61. 

Rhorer,  George,  212. 
Rio  Grande  del  Norte,  165. 
Rio  Puerco,  165. 
Rivera,  213,  215. 
Riverside,  15,  95,  124. 

centre  of  orange  growth,  119, 

description  of,  123-127. 

growth  in  resources,  1 20. 

irrigation  at,  102-104. 

price  of  land,  95-98. 

return  on  fruits,  97,  98,  124. 

Riviera,  Italy,  Temperature  of,  7,  45,  208. 

Roberts,  Oliver  E.,  216. 

Rock-rose,  204. 

Rome,  Italy,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Roscoe  Station,  214. 

Rose,  H.  H.,  211. 

Roses,  41,  49,  66,  138,  206. 

Royal  palms,  85. 

Sacramento,  California,  Temperature  of,  20?= 

Sages,  202,  205. 

Sahara,  6. 

San  Antonio,  Texas,  Temperature  of,  207. 

San  Bernardino,  4,  15-17,  33,  34,  118. 

description  of,  116,  117. 

land,  prices  of,  96,  117. 

Mountain,  4,  7. 

River,  11. 

temperature  at,  6,  S3,  44,  46,  210, 

211. 
San  Diego,  2,  9,  15,  24,  26,  34,  42,  43,  47, 

62,  72,  79,  80,  94. 

as  a  health  resort,  50. 

Chamber  of  Commerce,  143. 

climate  of,  49,  50. 

commercial  possibilities  of,  142. 

converted  lands,  94. 

description   of,    29-34,    79-81, 

142-145 

fruits,  37,  97. 

Land  and  Farm  Company,  208. 

longevity  at,  60. 

markets,  43. 

mission,  24,  60. 

rainfall  at,  47,  202. 

recreations  at,  41,  71. 

temperature  of,   30,  44,  49,   50, 

207,  210,  211. 

Bay,  2,  3. 

County,  4,  6,  16,  34. 

descTiption  of,  140-145. 

River,  4,  6,  11,  16,  34. 

San  P>ancisco,  2,  42,  142. 

Mountain,  182,  185,  194,  200. 

River,  185. 

temperature  at,  210,  211. 

San  Gabriel,  4,  15,  26,  72,  94,  213. 


INDEX. 


225 


San  Gabriel,  description  of,  124-128. 

mis:;ion,  20. 

Mountain,  4,  5. 

River,  11. 

Viillev,  72,  94. 

San  Jacinto  Range,  4,  17,  33,  4G,  118. 

rain  at,  48. 

San  Joaquin,  V,  37,  114. 
San  Juan,  177. 

Capristano,  79. 

San  Jose,  1 24. 

San  Luis  Obispo,  10. 

River,  11. 

San  Mateo  Canon,  118. 

San  Miguel,  33. 

San  Nicolas,  2. 

San  Pedro,  3,  135. 

San  Remo,  Temperature  of,  208. 

Santa  Ana,  2,  13,  72,  94,  99,  118. 

description  of,  124. 

• Mountain,  134. 

■ River,  11,  79,  134. 

• Township,  15,  127,  211. 

Yallev,  2,  72,  213. 

Santa  Barbara,  2,  3,  9,  37,  07. 

at  Montecito,  123. 

• Channel,  2,  3. 

County,  10. 

■  description  of,  72,  137,  138. 

fruits,  37,  129. 

Islatid,  2,  3. 

Mountain,  17. 

■ olives,  37,  125. 

temperattne  of,  29,  44,  207. 

Santa  Catalina,  2,  134. 
Santa  Clara,  43,  138. 

River,  11. 

Santa  Clemente,  2. 
Santa  Cruz,  2,  47,  157. 

Canaries,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Santa  Fe  line,  117,  119,  103,  165,  182. 

New  Mexico,  Temperature  of,  207. 

Santa  Margarita  River,  11. 
Santa  Miguel,  2. 
Santa  Monica,  3. 

description  of,  76. 

irrigation  at,  134. 

Santa  Rosa,  2,  140. 
Santa  Ynes,  4,  72. 
Santiago,  46. 

Canon,  134. 

San  Tomas  mission,  60. 

Savannah,  216. 

Sea- lions,  30,  161. 

Seasons,  6,  10,  37,  38,  43,  65,  66,  81. 

description  of  the,  65,  66. 

Van  Dyke  on  the,  202-206. 

Sequoia  semper  virena^  157. 
Sequoiafi  gigantea,  157,  158. 
Serra,  Father  Junipero,  24. 
Serrano,  Don  Antonio,  61,  62. 

15 


Sheavwitz  Plateau,  1 78. 

Sheep,  12,  200. 

Shiva's  Temple,  195. 

Shooting-star,  203. 

Sicily,  18,  69. 

Sierra  Madre,  4, 1 5, 37, 42, 46, 71, 94, 114,118. 

• Villa,  130. 

Sierra  Nevada,  2,  3. 

Sierras,  153,  161. 

Signal  Service  Observer,  207. 

Silene,  204. 

Smith,  F.  D.,  212-215. 

F   M.,  212. 

T.  D.,  214. 

Smithsonian  Institution,  59. 

Snap-dragon,  205. 

Sorrel,  204. 

Soi-rento,  132. 

Southern  California,  2-4,  16. 

climate  of,  29,  38,  45,  55,  56,  59, 

62,  130. 

commerce  of,  18. 

compared  to  Italy,  46. 

counties  of,  16. 

historv  of,  24,  25. 

"  Our"ltaly,"  18,  46. 

pride  of  nations,  the,  26. 

rainy  seasons  in.     (See  Rain.) 

rapid  growth  of  fruits  in,  115. 

recreations  of,  09-71. 

temperature   of,  43,    133.      (See 

Temperature.) 

Italy,  69,  147. 

Pac'itic  Railroad,  149. 

Utah,  177. 

South  Pasadena,  213,  214. 

Riverside,  217. 

Spain,  149. 

Spalding,  W.  A.,  212,  215. 

Spanish  adventurers,  24,  30. 

Spruce-pine,  182. 

St.  Augustine,  Florida,  Temperature  of,  207 

St.  Michael,  Azores,  Temperature  of,  207. 

St.  Paul,  Minnesota,  Temperature  of,  207. 

State  Commission,  156. 

Stewart,  James,  217. 

Stone,  142. 

Strawberries,  10. 

prices  and  profits  of,  214. 

Stub,  C.  C,  216. 
Sugar-pine,  150,  157. 
Sumach.  205. 
Sunset  Mountain,  185. 
Sweetlrrier,  206. 
Sweetwater  Dam,  144. 
Switzerland,  149. 
Sycamore,  79,  134. 

Table  Mountain,  33. 

Tangier,  45. 

Temperature,  4,  5,  29,  37,  38. 


226 


INDEX. 


Temperature  compared  to  European,  45. 

discussed,  43,  45. 

of  Coronado  Beach,  87. 

of  Los  Angeles,  44,  207,  210,  211. 

of  Monterey,  72. 

of  Pasadena,  13,  207. 

of  Pomona,  44. 

of  San  Bernardino,  6,  33,  44,  46,  210, 

211. 

of  San  Diego,  30,  44,  49,  50,  210,  211. 

of  Santa  Barbara,  29,  44,  207. 

relation  of,  to  health,  201. 

statistics,  44,  45,  72. 

statistics  compared,  207,  208,  210,  211. 

Van  Dyke  on,  50. 

Temecula  Caiion,  140. 

Temescal  Caiion,  217. 

The  Rockies,  10. 

Thistle,  205. 

Thompson,  E.  R.,  211. 

Tia  Juana  River,  11,  30,  145. 

Tiger-lily,  206. 

Tin,  217. 

Tomatoes — prices  and  profits  of,  216. 

Toplitz  waters,  163. 

Toroweap  Vallev,  182. 

Trees,  48,  69,  130,  134,  138,  147,  156,  198. 

description  of,  150,  156-161. 

region  of  Mariposa  big,  156. 

Tulip,  204. 
Tustin  City,  134. 

Ubach,  Father  A.  D.,  59,  60,  62. 
Uinkaret  Plateau,  178. 
Umbrella-tree,  69,  134. 
University  Heights,  80,  81. 
Utali,  177,  178,  199. 

Vail,  Hugh  D.,  209. 

Van  Dyke,  Theodore  S.,  4,  140,  202. 

on  climate,  6,  78. 

on  floral  procession  and  seasons,  202- 

206. 

on  growth  in  population,  145. 

on  irrigation,  102,  103. 

on  temperature,  50. 


Van  Dyke,  Theodore  S.,  on  winds,  8,  203. 
Vedolia  car(/i««fo  (Australian  lady-bug),  129. 
Vegetables,  112,  216. 
Ventura,  16,  137. 
Vermilion  Clitfs,  178. 
Vernon,  213,  215. 

Jacob,  216. 

Vesuvius,  33. 

Vetch,  203. 

Vines,  20,  23-25,  67,  79,  91,  107,  123,  128, 

144,  147. 
Violets,  203. 

Visalia,  California,  Temperature  of,  207. 
Vishnu's  Temple,  196. 
Vulcan's  Throne,  196, 

Wages,  "  Boom,"  109. 
Walnut  Creek  Canon,  183. 
Walnuts,  14,  19,  115. 

prices  and  profits  of,  215. 

Water,  186. 

how  measured,  98. 

price  of,  97,  98. 

Watermelons — prices  and  profits  of,  216. 

Wawona,  150. 

Wells,  186. 

Wheat,  2,  5,  14,  25,  138. 

affected  bv  irrigation,  100. 

White  Cliffs,  178. 
Wild  Oats,  202. 
Williams,  182. 
Willow,  134. 

Winder,  Dr.  W.  A.,  on  longevitv,  56. 
Winds,  4,  6,  8,  29,  30,  38,  47,  70,  78,  123, 
184,  203. 

relation  of,  to  health,  201. 

Van  Dvke  on,  8,  203. 

Wine,  20,  92,  93,  107,  136,  137. 
Winkler,  Mrs.,  216. 
Wood,  P.  K.,  216. 

YosEMiTE,  150,  153,  154,  161,  197. 

description  of,  149-156. 

Yucca,  205. 

ZuNis,  165. 


THE    END. 


By  Charles   Dudley  Warner. 

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Our  Italy. 

An  Exposition  of  the  Climate  and  Resources  of  Southern  California. 

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Long's  Central  Africa. 

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Du  Chaillu's  Equatorial  Africa. 

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Spry's  Cruise  of  the  "  Challenger." 

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Vambery's  Central  Asia. 

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